Bái máo hóu

Bái Máo Hóu (白毛猴, bái máo hóu) — “White Hairy Monkey” — a historical name encompassing two fundamentally different teas from Fujian Province, connected only by the common name “white hairy monkey”:

(1) Zhenghe Bai Mao Hou (政和白毛猴) — green tea (绿茶) from Zhènghé County (政和县), northern Fujian. Created by tea merchant Fan Changyi (范昌义) in 1910. The technology is described as “介于红茶绿茶之间” — “between red tea and green tea”: prolonged (16–18 hours) withering (萎凋) with partial enzymatic oxidation, followed by fixation, rolling and drying. Local nickname — “白绿” (Bai Lü, “White-Green”). Originally exported to Guangdong, Hong Kong and Macau. Raw material — the famous cultivar Zhenghe Dabaicha (政和大白茶) — the same one used to make white tea “Zhenghe Baihao Yinzhen”. Zhenghe has been renowned for producing silver needles since the Northern Song era; this very county gave its name to the Zhenghe reign period of Emperor Huizong (1111–1118), who, according to legend, was so impressed by the local tea that he named an entire era of rule after the county.

(2) Anxi Bai Mao Hou (安溪白毛猴) — oolong tea (乌龙茶) from Anxi, southern Fujian. Original cultivar from Mount Shizhu (石竹岩, 700+ m), developed by brothers Xie Jia and Xie Bing (谢驾、谢冰) in the late Qing era. Processing — full oolong with fermentation and “窨制” (yīn zhì, additional “scenting”). Renowned as “安溪药茶” (“medicinal tea of Anxi”), exported to Taiwan, Japan, Southeast Asia and Europe. By now practically lost — only 7–8 old trees remain on Mount Shizhu.

This article is devoted to Zhenghe Bai Mao Hou (green tea / “white-green”), since it is the one represented in the collection and is more accessible. The Anxi version is mentioned in the “Comparison” section.

1. Classification and Origin:

• Type: Green tea (绿茶, lǜchá), formally unfermented, however with prolonged withering (16–18 hours) — “制法介于红茶绿茶之间” (“technology between red tea and green tea”). Local nickname — “白绿” (Bai Lü, “White-Green”). Emphasis — on “preserving down” (保毫, bǎo háo) and “shaping” (做形, zuò xíng).

• Category: Historical famous tea (历史名茶). Created in 1910. Classified as green tea in “Zhongguo Chajing” (《中国茶经》), although the technology includes elements of white tea (prolonged withering) and even light oolong (partial oxidation during withering).

• Origin: China, Fújiàn Province (福建省), Zhènghé County (政和县, Zhènghé Xiàn), northern Fujian. Zhenghe — one of the “three great tea counties” of Fujian alongside Fuding and Jian’ou. Coordinates: ~27°22′ N, 118°51′ E.

2. History and Cultural Significance:

• History:

Zhenghe — a county with the most ancient tea history in northern Fujian. Production of silver needles (银针) has been conducted here since the Northern Song era (960–1127). According to legend, Emperor Huīzōng (宋徽宗, 1100–1126), the famous patron of arts and author of the treatise “Da Guan Cha Lun” (《大观茶论》, “Treatise on Tea [of the] Da Guan [era]”), was so impressed by the white tea from this county that in 1115 he renamed his reign period to “Zhenghe” (政和, “Harmony of Governance”) — after the county name. This is one of the rarest cases in Chinese history when a ruler named an era of rule after tea.

On this centuries-old tea foundation in 1910 local tea merchant Fan Changyi (范昌义, Fàn Chāngyì) created a new type of tea — Bai Mao Hou. Fan developed a unique technology combining prolonged withering of white tea (16–18 hours) with “kill-green” of green tea. The result — tea “between red and green”, with downy, voluminous form of a “curled monkey” and mild, “pure-aromatic” (香清味醇) taste. Bai Mao Hou quickly conquered the markets of Guangdong, Hong Kong and Macau — regions that value downy, “毫”-teas with mild taste.

• Name: 白毛 (Bái Máo) — “white down” (abundant white fuzz on buds and young leaves); 猴 (Hóu) — “monkey”. Curved, twisted tea leaves, densely covered with white down, resemble a curled-up little monkey. Local nickname — “白绿” (“White-Green”) — reflects the intermediate character of the technology. Particularly outstanding batches receive the suffix “王” (Wang, “King”).

• Cultural significance: Bai Mao Hou — a “hybrid” tea: born in the county that gave its name to an entire Song reign era, at the intersection of white and green tea traditions. Its technology — “between red and green” — reflects the Fujian spirit of experimentation that gave birth to all six categories of Chinese tea.

3. Botanical Description and Raw Material:

• Cultivar: Zhenghe Dabaicha (政和大白茶, Zhènghé Dàbáichá) — “Great White Tea of Zhenghe”. One of the most valuable Fujian cultivars: large, fleshy buds and leaves, abundantly covered with white down. Bush type (灌木型), medium-leaf variety (中叶类), medium-early (中芽种). This very cultivar is used to produce the famous white tea “Zhenghe Baihao Yinzhen” (政和白毫银针) and “Zhenghe Bai Mudan” (政和白牡丹).

• Picking: After Qīngmíng (清明后), spring. Standard — one bud + two-three young leaves (一芽二三叶), densely covered with white down. Only undamaged shoots are picked in dry weather. Shoots must be large, “肥壮” (féizhuàng, “fleshy and strong”).

• Raw material requirements: It is categorically forbidden to damage the down — “保毫” (bǎo háo, “preserving down”) — the main principle. Shoots are placed in loose layers in bamboo baskets, avoiding compression.

4. Terroir and Cultivation:

• Growing altitude: 600–900 m (mountainous area of northern Fujian). Zhènghé County is located in the foothills of the Wǔyí Mountain system (武夷山脉), at the junction of Fujian and Zhejiang — one of the most “mountainous” tea counties of the province.

• Climate: Subtropical monsoon. Average annual temperature — about 18 °C. Annual precipitation — 1600–1800 mm. High humidity, frequent fogs — more than 180 days per year. Significant daily temperature difference (>8 °C) — stimulates accumulation of amino acids and aromatic substances. Diffused light from cloudiness — one of the key factors ensuring abundant down on Zhenghe Dabaicha shoots.

• Soils: Red-yellow (红壤, 黄壤), acidic (pH 4.5–5.5). Well-drained, deep (>60 cm), rich in organic matter and minerals. Parent rock — granite and sandstone, providing mineral “backbone” to the taste. Typical for the mountain belt of northern Fujian — the same soils on which the cliff oolongs of Wuyi grow, although altitude and microclimate differ.

• Ecology: Zhenghe — a mountain county with high forest cover (>70%). Bamboo groves, pine and deciduous forests create a “green canopy” over tea gardens. Water resources — streams and rivers of the Minjiang basin. Absence of industry in the mountain zone.

5. Production Technology:

Bai Mao Hou technology — a unique “hybrid” combining elements of white, green and partly red tea. Main principles: “保毫” (preserving down) and “做形” (shaping the “monkey”). “Internal quality depends on proper withering” (内质重萎凋适度) — the key formula.

• Withering (萎凋, wěidiāo): 16–18 hours — significantly longer than standard green tea (2–4 hours). Leaves are spread in thin layers on bamboo trays or “水筛” (shuǐshāi, “water sieve”) in shade or in a ventilated room. Over 16–18 hours partial enzymatic oxidation of polyphenols occurs: moisture loss — 25–30%, leaves darken to dark green, petioles become wrinkled, down appears “like silver” (白毫显露, 毫毛如银), texture — “soft as cotton” (叶质柔软如棉), petiole bends but doesn’t break (梗折不脆断). Over-withering → reddening; under-withering → excessive “green” bitterness.

• Kill-green (杀青, shāqīng): In wok at 140–150 °C. First “tossing” (扬炒, yáng chǎo), then “closed” pan-firing (闷炒, mèn chǎo). Until color changes to “青” (qīng, blue-green), petiole — yellow-green, aroma — “清香” (pure), without grassy taste.

• Rolling-shaping (揉捻/做形): Unique stage — combining rolling and shaping the “monkey”. Master alternates “rolling” (揉搓, róucuō) and “rotating the mass” (茶团旋转, chá tuán xuánzhuǎn): leaf is rolled into round, curved forms resembling a “curled little monkey”. Operation — “light and careful, with attention to down” (操作轻巧，注意保毫). 5–8 minutes. Moist “tea masses” (湿茶团) — 50–500 g each.

• Initial drying (初烘): 100–110 °C. On each “焙笼” (bèilóng, bamboo drying basket) — 10–15 small “tea masses”. To 50–60% dryness (tea leaves don’t stick to fingers).

• Re-drying-shaping (复焙整形): 50–60 °C. Simultaneously shaping continues: tea leaves are “completed” to full form of “little monkey” (小猴). Down must not fall off (temperature not too high), and color must not “suffocate” into yellow-brown (temperature not too low). At 80–90% dryness — reduction to 40–50 °C. Final drying to complete readiness.

• Sorting (拣剔): Removal of stems and defective tea leaves. Packaging.

6. Organoleptic Characteristics:

• Dry leaf appearance: Large, curved tea leaves, “curled little monkeys” (犹如毛猴静伏, “like a little monkey resting in stillness”). Densely covered with silvery-white down. Form — voluminous, “肥壮卷曲” (féizhuàng juǎnqū, “fleshy and twisted”). Color — from silvery-green to dark green with silvery “frost”.

• Aroma: “Downy” (毫香, háo xiāng) — fresh, sweetish. Pure (清香). More complex than typical green tea — with “milky” and “honey” overtones, due to prolonged withering.

• Taste: Mild, “醇和微甘” (chúnhé wēigān, “harmoniously mild, slightly sweet”). Minimal astringency. Pronounced “回甘” (returning sweetness). Body — medium, “velvety”.

• Liquor color: “清绿泛黄” (qīnglǜ fànhuáng, “pure green with yellowish tinge”). In some sources — “橙黄” (chénghuáng, “amber-yellow”) — this depends on degree of withering.

• Spent leaves: Tender, whole, elastic, bright green (嫩绿、完整、匀净、无杂). Shoots retain their form — indicator of “保毫” and careful processing.

7. Chemical Composition:

• Polyphenols (茶多酚): Moderate — prolonged withering (16–18 h) partially oxidizes catechins, reducing astringency. In polyphenol level Bai Mao Hou is closer to white teas (15–20%) than to standard green teas (20–30%).

• Amino acids (氨基酸): Elevated — Zhenghe Dabaicha, one of the most “amino acid-rich” cultivars of Fujian, + mountain terroir (fogs >180 days, daily difference >8 °C) = rich amino acid profile. L-theanine dominates — responsible for characteristic “silky” sweetness and “毫香” (downy aroma).

• EGCG: Present, but in more “mild” form — partial oxidation during 16–18-hour withering transforms part of EGCG into theaflavins and thearubigins, creating a “dual” antioxidant profile uncharacteristic of pure green teas.

• Caffeine: Moderate.

• Vitamins: C, B group.

• Minerals: Fluorine, potassium, magnesium, zinc.

8. Health Properties:

• Antioxidant protection: Polyphenols + EGCG + vitamin C. Prolonged withering partially transforms catechins into theaflavins, providing “dual” antioxidant profile (green + partially oxidized).

• Mild tonic effect: Caffeine + L-theanine — alertness without nervousness. Especially mild — thanks to reduced polyphenols and elevated amino acids.

• Digestive support: Moderate catechins stimulate GI motility without irritating mucosa (unlike stronger green teas).

• Cognitive functions: L-theanine stimulates alpha-wave brain activity.

• Important: Listed properties are based on general data and are not medical recommendations.

9. Brewing:

• Water temperature: 75–80 °C. Delicate “little monkeys” are sensitive to boiling water — down gets “scalded” and clouds the liquor.

• Tea amount: 3–5 g per 150–200 ml.

• Teaware: Glass cup or porcelain gaiwan — for observing the unfolding of “little monkeys” and silvery down in water.

• Process:

  1. Warm the teaware.
  2. Add tea.
  3. Rinse — pour, drain after 3 seconds. For Bai Mao Hou rinsing is recommended — it “opens” the voluminous twisted “little monkeys” and removes fine down from the first infusion.
  4. First steeping — 1–2 minutes (75–80 °C).
  5. 3–5 infusions, increasing time by 15–20 seconds.
  6. Observe the spent leaves: if shoots are whole, tender, bright green, with preserved down — the tea is authentic and properly brewed. Broken shoots with fallen down — sign of over-drying or fake.

• Special note: Thanks to prolonged withering (16–18 h) Bai Mao Hou is more “tolerant” of temperature than standard green teas: even at 85 °C it doesn’t become bitter, but reveals “honey” overtones. However, for maximum “毫香” (downy aroma) 75–80 °C is preferable.

10. Storage:

• Temperature: 0–5 °C, airtight. Bai Mao Hou is especially sensitive to moisture — abundant down on tea leaves acts like a “sponge”, absorbing atmospheric moisture and foreign odors faster than most green teas.
• Container: Airtight, opaque. Foil + vacuum packaging — ideal. Before opening — bring to room temperature to avoid condensation on down.
• Light: Complete isolation — down and chlorophyll are photosensitive.
• Shelf life: 6–8 months at 0–5 °C. Best — in current harvest year. Long-term aging not recommended: Bai Mao Hou is valued for freshness and “毫香”, which fade over time.

11. Price and Counterfeits:

Bai Mao Hou — rare and expensive tea: limited area (Zhenghe), manual labor, demanding raw material (Zhenghe Dabaicha), complex technology (16–18 h withering + manual shaping of “monkey”).

• How to avoid counterfeits:
  • Form — voluminous, curved “little monkeys”, densely covered with white down. Not flat, not “needles”.
  • Aroma — “毫香 + 清香” (downy + pure). Without “grassy” or “burnt” tone.
  • Liquor — “清绿泛黄” (pure green with yellowish tinge). Cloudy liquor — sign of over-drying.
  • Spent leaves — whole, tender shoots with preserved down.

12. Interesting Facts:

• County that gave name to reign era. Zhenghe — the only county in China after which Song Emperor Huizong named an entire reign period (1111–1118): he was so impressed by local white tea that he renamed the era to “Zhenghe” (政和). Bai Mao Hou — continuation of this thousand-year tradition.

• “Between red and green” (介于红茶绿茶之间). Unique technology: 16–18 hours withering (like white tea) + fixation and rolling (like green tea). Result — tea that is formally green, but in taste — closer to white.

• Fán Chāngyì (范昌义, 1910). Creator of Bai Mao Hou — Zhenghe tea merchant who combined white and green tea traditions for export market of Guangdong and Hong Kong.

• Two Bai Mao Hou. Zhenghe (green/white-green, Zhenghe Dabaicha) and Anxi (oolong, from Mount Shizhu). Anxi Bai Mao Hou, created by brothers Xie Jia and Xie Bing in late Qing, became famous as “安溪药茶” (“medicinal tea of Anxi”) and was exported via Taiwan to Japan, SEA and Europe. Brother Xie Bing became so wealthy that in 1878, when drought occurred in Shandong, he equipped a caravan with food and responded to imperial call for help — for which he received from the Qing court the title “奉政大夫” (fèngzhèng dàfū) and right to wear “花翎” (peacock feather). By now Anxi Bai Mao Hou is practically lost — only 7–8 old trees remain on Mount Shizhu with “碗口粗” (“trunk as thick as a bowl”).

• “Little monkey at rest” (毛猴静伏). Form of tea leaves — calling card: voluminous, twisted, covered with silvery down, they really resemble little monkeys curled in a ball.

• Zhenghe Dabaicha — universal cultivar. From the same cultivar they make: white Yinzhen, white Bai Mudan, red “Zhenghe Gongfu” (政和工夫红茶), and Bai Mao Hou. Four tea categories from one cultivar — a record.

13. Comparison with Other Teas of Zhenghe and Fujian:

• Zhènghé Báiháo Yínzhēn (政和白毫银针): White tea from the same cultivar (Zhenghe Dabaicha). Buds only. Withering even longer (24–48 h), without fixation. Bai Mao Hou — with fixation and rolling, from bud + 2–3 leaves, “green” character.

• Ānxī Bái Máo Hóu (安溪白毛猴): Oolong tea from Mount Shizhu. Full oolong fermentation + “窨制”. “Medicinal tea of Anxi”. Practically lost. Completely different type — oolong, not green.

• Tàipíng Hóu Kuí (太平猴魁): Anhui. Also “monkey” tea, but flat, large-leaf, without down. Bai Mao Hou — twisted, voluminous, with abundant down. Both — green, but from different provinces and with different technology.

• Zhènghé Bái Mǔdān (政和白牡丹): White tea from Zhenghe Dabaicha. Bud + 1–2 leaves. Without fixation. Bai Mao Hou — with fixation and shaping of “monkey”. Both — “downy”, but of different categories.

In Conclusion:

Bai Mao Hou — tea with thousand-year lineage: Zhenghe County, which gave its name to a Song emperor’s reign era, gave birth to this “hybrid” of white and green tea in 1910. Its formula — 16–18 hours withering + fixation + shaping of “curled little monkey” — creates tea that is formally green, but in spirit — “白绿” (“white-green”): downy aroma, mild taste “between” categories, silvery “little monkeys” in the cup. From the same Zhenghe Dabaicha cultivar they make four types of tea — from white needles to red “gongfu”; Bai Mao Hou — the most “transitional” among them, a bridge tea between white and green, born of the Fujian spirit of experimentation.