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Báimǎ jùn hóng

Báimǎ jùn hóng · 白马骏红

In the 20th century, the region experienced waves of rise and decline: in the 1960s, red tea production bases for export were established on the island, and Hǎinán red broken tea (红碎茶) was supplied to dozens of countries. However, by the mid-1990s, red tea exports sharply declined, and many tea farms fell into decay.

  • Type: Red tea (black tea) (红茶, hóngchá) — fully oxidized tea.
  • Category: Modern artisanal/regional Chinese red teas. Flagship product of the “Baima Ling” (白马岭, báimǎ lǐng) series — a line of high-quality teas from Hainan production.
  • Origin: China, Hǎinán Province (海南, hǎinán), Qióngzhōng Lì and Miáo Autonomous County (琼中黎族苗族自治县, qióngzhōng lízú miáozú zìzhìxiàn). Produced at the state agricultural enterprise “Wushichanchang” (国营乌石农场, guóyíng wūshí nóngchǎng), located at the foot of the Báimǎ Lǐng ridge in the heart of the Wǔzhǐshān mountain range (五指山, wǔzhǐshān).
  • Geographic coordinates: ≈ 19°06’ N, 110°06’ E.

2. History and Cultural Significance:

  • History: The history of tea cultivation in the Baima Ling area has ancient roots. According to the “Qiongtai Zhi” (《琼台志·土产》), compiled in the 6th year of the Zhengde era of the Míng dynasty (明正德六年, 1511), tea was already listed among the local products of Hainan Island. The indigenous Lì people (黎族) have long collected wild mountain tea for medicinal purposes, and “tea from Baima Ling” (白马岭茶) along with “water-full tea” (水满茶, shuǐmǎn chá) was considered a model of Hainan’s pristine tea. During the Qing period, local tea was classified as imperial tribute (贡品).

    In the 20th century, the region experienced waves of rise and decline: in the 1960s, red tea production bases for export were established on the island, and Hǎinán red broken tea (红碎茶) was supplied to dozens of countries. However, by the mid-1990s, red tea exports sharply declined, and many tea farms fell into decay. The “Wushichanchang” enterprise was no exception: by the late 2000s, the former “Lingtou Tea Factory” (岭头茶厂) was on the verge of bankruptcy, with annual turnover of less than 3 million yuan.

    The turning point came in 2009, when the management of the reorganized farm made a strategic decision to create premium red tea. Chief technologist Cài Jǐnyuán (蔡锦源, cài jǐnyuán) after more than four months of continuous experiments developed a recipe in which descendants of local wild mountain tea of the second generation formed the basis (about 80% of raw material), supplemented by Fúdǐng Dà Bái (福鼎大白) and Qimen cultivars. The resulting product — with red-ruby liquor, persistent aroma and sweet-fresh taste — was named “Baima Jun Hong”: the golden tips on the finished leaf reminded the creator of a steed’s coat (骏, jùn — “noble horse”).

    Recognition came swiftly: in 2012, national experts unanimously called Baima Jun Hong “unrivaled among Hainan and one of the best among Chinese red teas.” Three leading specialists of the country left calligraphic reviews: academician Chén Zōngmào (陈宗懋) — “Treasure of Qiong Island — Baima Jun Hong” (琼岛珍品 白马骏红), professor Chéng Qǐkūn (程启坤) — “Chinese Premium Red Tea” (中国极品红茶), professor Shì Zhàopéng (施兆鹏) — “Fragrant Tea of the White Horse” (香茗白马骏). In 2013, the tea was chosen as the official beverage of the Boao Forum for Asia (博鳌亚洲论坛), and the Hainan Provincial Government included it in the protocol list of reception teas.

  • Name: 白马 (báimǎ) — “white horse,” referring to the Báimǎ Lǐng ridge (白马岭) on whose slopes the tea plantations are located. 骏 (jùn) — “noble, thoroughbred steed”; the metaphor refers to the appearance of the finished leaf: fine golden tips on a dark background resemble a bay horse’s coat. 红 (hóng) — “red,” indicating the tea category. Thus, the full name can be poetically translated as “Red Tea of the Noble Steed from White Horse Mountain.”

  • Cultural significance: Baima Jun Hong became a symbol of the revival of Hainan’s tea industry after the crisis of the 1990s-2000s. The story of the tea’s creation is inseparably linked with the name of Fú Xiǎoqín (符小琴, fú xiǎoqín) — NPC deputy, National Model Worker and Outstanding Communist Party Member, who led the transformation of the loss-making farm into an exemplary enterprise. The tea embodies the motto “with third-class equipment — first-class product” (三流设备做出一流好茶), which became a legend of Hainan tea making.

3. Botanical Description and Raw Material:

  • Variety / Cultivar: The raw material base of Baima Jun Hong is unique — it is a blend of three types: (1) second-generation descendants of Hǎinán wild mountain tea (海南原生态野生山茶第二代) — large-leaf form Camellia sinensis var. assamica, adapted to the tropical conditions of the island; (2) Fúdǐng Dà Bái (福鼎大白, fúdǐng dà bái) — high-tip variety from Fujian, contributing sweetness and abundance of golden buds; (3) Qímén cultivars (祁门种), providing characteristic aromatic complexity. The share of local wild raw material comprises about 80%.
  • Picking: Thanks to Hainan’s tropical climate, the picking season lasts up to 10 months per year (from January to October), which significantly exceeds the possibilities of continental tea-producing regions. Hǎinán early spring tea (华夏第一早春茶) reaches the market 2 months earlier than production from Fujian or Zhejiang.
  • Picking standard: For Baima Jun Hong — exclusively buds (单芽, dān yá) from the most tender raw material. For “Baima Jun Hong” (一芽一叶) — bud and one leaf. For “Baima Jun Hong” (一芽二叶) — bud and two leaves (this fraction is also used for red tea “Baima Junhong,” 白马君红, with conditionally strip-style rolling).
  • Raw material requirements: Fresh, undamaged leaf without mechanical injuries; rapid delivery to the factory to minimize uncontrolled oxidation.

4. Terroir and Cultivation Features:

  • Growing altitude: The Baima Ling ridge reaches 1264 m above sea level; tea gardens are located at altitudes of 600–1264 m.
  • Climate: Tropical monsoon, with abundant humidity. Average annual temperature — 22–26 °C. Annual precipitation — 1700–2400 mm. Relative humidity — over 80%. Daily temperature amplitude — 6–11 °C, which promotes accumulation of aromatic substances in the leaf. The Baima Ling area is famous for constant cloudiness and frequent fogs, creating natural diffused lighting — an ideal regime for amino acid synthesis.
  • Soils: Mountain lateritic and yellow soils of volcanic origin, characterized by increased selenium content (富硒土壤, fù xī tǔrǎng) and high level of organic matter. Selenium is a microelement that enriches the chemical composition of tea and affects its antioxidant properties. Soils are acidic (pH 4.5–5.5), well-drained.
  • Ecology: The area “Tianran yangba” (天然氧吧, “natural oxygen bar”) — this is how Baima Ling is characterized for its air purity and high concentration of phytoncides surrounded by tropical forest of the Wuzhishan mountain range. Plantations are located in a zone of zero residual pesticide content (all tested batches showed zero level of agrochemical residues).

5. Production Technology:

The technology of Baima Jun Hong is an original development, combining classical principles of gongfu hongcha with an innovative approach to temperature and humidity control during the oxidation stage. The enterprise was among the first in China to implement the method of “controlled temperature and increased humidity during rolling-oxidation” (揉切控温增湿可控发酵).

  • Picking (采摘, cǎizhāi): Hand selection of buds or tender shoots.
  • Withering (萎凋, wěidiāo): Combined: solar micro-withering (日光微凋) followed by processing in an enclosed space. Goal — reducing moisture by 25–30% and activating enzymatic processes.
  • Rolling (揉捻, róuniǎn): Destroying the cellular structure of the leaf, releasing juices and forming shape. For Baima Jun Hong, delicate rolling is applied, preserving the integrity of buds.
  • Oxidation (发酵, fājiào): Key stage, conducted under controlled temperature and increased humidity conditions. This is where the characteristic balance of theaflavins and thearubigins for Baima Jun Hong is formed, ensuring brightness of liquor and richness of taste.
  • Drying / fixation (烘干, hōnggān): Stopping oxidation and fixing the aromatic profile. Temperature regime is selected to enhance honey-fruit notes.
  • Sorting (分级, fēnjí): Separating the finished product by fractions.

In 2012, the factory passed certification according to ISO 9001:2008 standards, and the products received the status of “Green Product Category A” (绿色食品A级产品) from the China Green Food Development Center.

6. Organoleptic Characteristics:

  • Dry leaf appearance: Thin, tightly rolled “needles”; leaf surface is smooth, oily-glossy; abundance of golden tips (金毫). Color — dark chestnut with bronze tint. Each tea particle “conditionally resembles a thin hair of a steed” — precisely this similarity gave the tea its figurative name.
  • Dry leaf aroma: Clean, sweetish, with pronounced notes of honey, flower pollen and light shade of tropical fruits (lychee, longan).
  • Liquor aroma: Multi-layered: in first infusions — bright floral-honey wave; in middle ones — fruity tones (ripe peach, apricot) with caramel undertone; in finale — soft woody and nutty shades.
  • Taste: Sweet, “醇厚” (chúnhòu — rich and thick), with pronounced freshness (鲜爽, xiānshuǎng) and smooth, “silky” texture. Astringency is minimal; aftertaste — long, warming, with notes of honey and light fruity acidity. The tea is distinguished by high brewing resistance.
  • Liquor color: From red-ruby to orange-amber; bright and clear, “like red agate” (红玛瑙, hóng mǎnǎo). Along the edge of the cup — noticeable golden rim.
  • Spent leaves (wet leaves): The leaf opens fully; buds retain golden color, leaf fragments — copper-red, elastic, uniform.

7. Chemical Composition:

Data obtained in 2011 by the laboratory of the All-China Supply and Marketing Cooperative Tea Research Institute in Hángzhōu (中华全国供销合作总社杭州茶叶研究院):

  • Water extract (水浸出物): 39% — high indicator, testifying to the tea’s richness in extractable substances.
  • Polyphenols (茶多酚): 23.9% — typical value for Hainan red teas from large-leaf raw material.
  • Theaflavins (茶黄素): 1.0% — high level, forming brightness and “liveliness” of liquor.
  • Thearubigins (茶红素): 11.6% — responsible for body density and red shade of liquor.
  • Theabrownins (茶褐素): 9.4% — moderate level, not overloading the liquor with “heavy” tones.
  • Amino acids: Including L-theanine; specific quantitative data were not published, however pronounced sweetness and freshness in taste indicate significant content.
  • Alkaloids: Caffeine — approximately 3.5–4.5% (characteristic for large-leaf Hainan teas with high polyphenol content); theobromine, theophylline — in trace amounts.
  • Minerals: Potassium, magnesium, manganese, zinc. Special note should be made of increased selenium (Se) content, due to volcanic selenium-containing soils of the region.
  • Pesticide residues: Zero content for all tested indicators.

8. Health Properties:

  • Gentle stimulation: Caffeine combined with L-theanine provides prolonged alertness and improved concentration without the characteristic coffee “spike and crash.”
  • Antioxidant protection: High content of polyphenols and theaflavins helps neutralize free radicals. Selenium additionally enhances the body’s antioxidant capacity.
  • Digestive care: Oxidized polyphenols of red tea gently affect the gastric mucosa and promote comfortable digestion after meals.
  • Cardiovascular support: Regular moderate consumption of red tea is associated with maintaining vascular elasticity; presence of potassium is favorable for normalizing blood pressure.
  • Cognitive functions: Studies based on wild Hainan tea indicate its positive influence on brain activity and memory, due to the complex of theanine, polyphenols and microelements.
  • Liver and kidney support: Presence of low oligosaccharides (低聚果糖, dī jù guǒtáng) in tea from wild Hainan raw material promotes maintenance of healthy intestinal microflora and, indirectly, functional activity of the liver.
  • Skin condition: The antioxidant complex with regular consumption may contribute to maintaining skin tone and hydration.
  • Warming effect: Red tea enhances peripheral circulation; Baima Jun Hong is especially pleasant on cool evenings, despite its tropical origin.

9. Brewing:

  • Water temperature: 85–90 °C for grade from pure buds (单芽); 90–95 °C for grade “one bud — one/two leaves.”
  • Tea amount: 4–5 g per 100–120 ml (gongfu method); 3 g per 200 ml (European method).
  • Teaware: Porcelain gàiwǎn (盖碗) — for maximum aroma development; glass teapot — for visual enjoyment of ruby liquor color; tasting cup — for professional evaluation.
  • Process:
    1. Warm the teaware with boiling water.
    2. Add tea; let dry leaf open under hot lid for 10–15 seconds.
    3. First infusion: 5–8 seconds (tea is very delicate, easily releases taste).
    4. 2nd–4th infusions: 8–12 seconds.
    5. 5th–8th infusions: increase time by 5–10 seconds.
    6. Quality Baima Jun Hong withstands 8–10 full infusions.

10. Storage:

  • Container: Airtight, opaque — tin can, vacuum or foil packaging.
  • Conditions: Dry, dark place, 15–25 °C, away from strongly scented products. Considering tropical origin and high extract content, tea preserves quality well.
  • Duration: Optimally — within 12–18 months. Quality batches can be stored up to 2–3 years, acquiring a deeper, “rounder” profile.

11. Price and Counterfeits:

  • Price category: High segment of Hainan and general Chinese red teas. Retail price — from ≈194 yuan/50 g (about 3900 yuan/kg) for standard batches to significantly higher prices for competition and gift sets. Limited batches of Baima Jun Hong from pure buds — most expensive.
  • How to avoid counterfeits:
    1. Purchase through authorized channels of the “Baima Ling” (白马岭) brand or in official stores of Hǎinán Agricultural Holdings (海南农垦).
    2. Check for “Green Product A” certificate and ISO 9001 marking.
    3. Evaluate the leaf: authentic Baima Jun Hong — oily-glossy, tightly rolled, with abundant golden tips; counterfeits are often coarser to touch and duller in color.
    4. Liquor should be bright, clear, with characteristic ruby shade and noticeable golden rim.
    5. Beware of suspiciously low prices: the cost of raw material from wild mountain tea of Wuzhishan is objectively high.

12. Interesting Facts:

  • Its name “Baima Jun Hong” was received, one could say, by chance: creator Cai Jinyuan, seeing the finished leaf with golden tips on dark background, associatively thought of a thoroughbred horse’s coat (骏马) — and the name was born instantly.
  • In 2011 at the Shenzhen International Tea Exhibition, 2000 boxes of Baima Jun Hong were sold out in three days; local television noted in a report: “People are not buying tea — they are buying up treasure brought from Qiong Island!”
  • At the Guangdong Tea Culture Festival, three experts from Sri Lanka, who planned to present their own products at the farm’s booth, after tasting Baima Jun Hong, changed their minds and asked Cai Jinyuan to become their mentor in the art of red tea making.
  • In 2022, “Baima Jun Hong” (一芽一叶) received the Grand Prix (大金奖) at the II World Red Tea Quality Competition, and two positions — “Baima Jun Hong” (一芽一叶) and “Baima Jun Hong” (单芽) — won gold medals at the XII International Championship “Zhongcha Bei” (中茶杯).
  • Besides red tea, the “Baima Ling” line includes “Baima Wuzhu” (白马雾珠, báimǎ wùzhū) — pearl green tea from similar raw material, rolled into balls. Thus, the same raw material unfolds in completely different flavor profiles.

13. Comparison with Other Red Teas:

  • Diānhóng Gōngfū (滇红工夫, diānhóng gōngfū): Yunnan red tea from var. assamica — closest “relative” by raw material type. Dianhong possesses chocolate-honey profile and powerful body. Baima Jun Hong, made from a blend dominated by wild Hainan tea, demonstrates more pronounced freshness (鲜爽) and tropical fruitiness, as well as brighter ruby liquor color.
  • Jīn Jùn Méi (金骏眉, jīn jùn méi): Premium Wuyi red tea from pure buds. Both teas belong to the highest price segment and both are made from the most tender buds, however Jin Jun Mei creates a more “dry,” floral-honey profile, while Baima Jun Hong — more “juicy” and round, with tropical undertone.
  • Wǔzhǐshān Hóng Chá (五指山红茶, wǔzhǐshān hóngchá): General designation of red teas from the Wuzhishan mountain range. Baima Jun Hong is the most premium and recognizable representative of this group, distinguished by original blend recipe and strict picking standard.
  • Yìng Dé Hóng Chá (英德红茶, yīngdé hóngchá): Guangdong red tea, also produced from large-leaf raw material in subtropical climate. Common features — dense body and bright liquor, however Ying De tends toward a more “sugary” profile, while Baima Jun Hong stands out with tropical freshness and selenium mineral undertone.

In Conclusion:

Baima Jun Hong is a story about how desperate search for a new path transforms a fading farm into a national champion. In each cup of this tea — the heat of Hainan’s tropical sun, mist of Baima Ling ridge, patience of wild mountain trees and mastery of people who managed to “make first-class product with third-class equipment.” Ruby liquor with golden rim, enveloping honey-fruit sweetness and long warming aftertaste — all this makes Baima Jun Hong a tea that is remembered and to which one wants to return.