Dàlǐ Gǎn Tǒng Chá

Gan Tong Cha is one of the most ancient named teas of Yunnan, inextricably linked with the Buddhist monastery Gǎn Tǒng Sì (感通寺, Gǎntōng Sì) on the slopes of the Cangshan mountain range. Since the Ming era, this tea was among the three celebrated Yunnan teas alongside pu-erh and Taihua tea, and the Qīng dynasty (清代) literatus Yú Huái (余怀, Yú Huái) in his treatise “Cha Yuan” (茶苑, Cháyuàn) called it “the first tea of Yunnan” (滇茶第一, Diān chá dì yī). Today, Gǎn Tǒng Chá is a key component of the famous Bái tea ceremony Sān Dào Chá (三道茶, Sān Dào Chá) — “Three Cups of Tea,” included in the UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage.

1. Classification and Origin:

• Type: Green tea (unfermented). Produced using chao-qing (炒青, chǎoqīng) technology — “kill-green” by pan-firing, with elements of traditional sun-drying.
• Category: Historical named tea of Yúnnán (云南历史传统名茶, Yúnnán lìshǐ chuántǒng míngchá). One of the “three great teas of Yunnan” of the Míng era (云南三大名茶, Yúnnán sān dà míngchá).
• Origin: China, Yúnnán Province (云南, Yúnnán), Dàlǐ Bái Autonomous Prefecture (大理白族自治州, Dàlǐ Báizú Zìzhìzhōu), western slope of the Cāngshān range (苍山, Cāngshān), vicinity of Gǎn Tǒng Sì monastery (感通寺, Gǎntōng Sì), located between Shèngyìng Peak (圣应峰, Shèngyìng Fēng) and Mǎlóng Peak (马龙峰, Mǎlóng Fēng).
• Geographic coordinates: Approximately 25°39′ North latitude, 100°06′ East longitude.

2. History and Cultural Significance:

• History:

  • Tang–Song eras (7th–13th centuries): The beginning of the region’s tea history dates back to the period of the Nánzhào kingdom (南诏, Nánzhào). According to “Man Shu” (蛮书, Mánshū) — the chronicle of Fán Chuò (樊绰, Fán Chuò) from the Tang era, the peoples of Dali were already cultivating and drinking tea at that time, brewing it “with pepper, ginger, and cinnamon” (以椒、姜、桂和烹而饮之). The monks of Gan Tong Si monastery were the first to begin purposefully growing and processing tea on the slopes of Cangshan, turning tea cultivation into one of the monastic industries.
  • Ming era (1368–1644) — flourishing: In 1383, the abbot of Gan Tong Si — monk Wú Jí (无极, Wú Jí) — made a journey to the capital Nanjing (Jinling) to the court of Emperor Zhú Yuánzhāng (朱元璋, Zhū Yuánzhāng, founder of the Ming dynasty), presenting as gifts a white horse and mountain camellias. The emperor was so impressed that he bestowed upon the monk two poems of his own composition and eighteen verses about the journey, which were carved on stelae in front of the Dà Yùn Tāng (大云堂) hall of the monastery. This event significantly strengthened the fame of the monastery and the tea produced in its vicinity. The famous traveler Xú Xiákè (徐霞客, Xú Xiákè) in his “Notes on Travel in Yunnan” (《滇游日记》, Diān Yóu Rìjì, 1639) described the tea trees in the monastery’s vicinity as “three to four zhang in height” (高三四丈), requiring ladders to harvest leaves from them. Xu Xiake also mentioned that he drank tea made with water from the spring at Shengying Peak, and the infusion made a great impression on him. Míng scholar and administrator Lǐ Yuányáng (李元阳, Lǐ Yuányáng) in “Description of Dali Prefecture” (《大理府志》, Dàlǐ Fǔzhì) wrote: “The properties and taste of Gan Tong Cha are not inferior to [tea from] Yangxian” (性味不减阳羡), comparing the Yunnan tea to the celebrated tea from Yixing (Jiangsu Province). Míng official and literatus Féng Shíkě (冯时可, Féng Shíkě) in “Notes on Travel in Yunnan” (《滇行纪略》, Diān Xíng Jìlüè) noted: “Tea from Gan Tong monastery is not inferior to [tea from] Tianchi and Fulong” (感通寺茶不下天池伏龙), only indicating that local masters did not fully master the art of roasting.
  • Qing era (1644–1912): Yú Huái (余怀, Yú Huái) in the treatise “Cha Yuan” (《茶苑》, Cháyuàn) awarded Gan Tong Cha the title “first among the teas of Yunnan” (滇茶第一). However, with the growing popularity and commercial significance of pu-erh, Gan Tong tea gradually lost its dominant position in the Yunnan tea market.
  • Modern times: In the 20th century, Gan Tong Cha production experienced decline. In 1985, Xiàguān Tea Factory (下关茶厂, Xiàguān Cháchǎng) — one of the largest tea enterprises in Dali — undertook efforts to restore the traditional technology. In 2014, the Bai tea ceremony San Dao Cha, inextricably linked with Gan Tong Cha, was included in the List of National Intangible Cultural Heritage of the PRC, and in 2022 — in the UNESCO Register of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity as part of “Traditional tea processing techniques and associated social practices in China.”

• Name:

  • “Dali” (大理, Dàlǐ) — name of the city and prefecture, historical capital of the medieval kingdom of the same name.
  • “Gan Tong” (感通, Gǎntōng) — name of the Buddhist monastery, literally “feel unity” or “spiritual connection.” The monastery is also known by the ancient name Dāng Shān Sì (荡山寺, Dàngshān Sì).
  • “Cha” (茶, Chá) — tea. Thus, the full name means “tea [of monastery] Gan Tong from Dali.”

• Cultural significance: Gǎn Tǒng Chá occupies a central place in the tea culture of the Bái people (白族, Báizú) — the indigenous population of the Dali region. This tea is the “pillar” (台柱茶, táizhù chá) of the “Three Cups of Tea” ceremony (三道茶, Sān Dào Chá), in which it embodies the life philosophy “first bitterness, then sweetness, and finally the aftertaste of memories” (一苦二甜三回味, yī kǔ èr tián sān huíwèi). The first cup — “bitter tea” (苦茶, kǔ chá) — is prepared from pure Gan Tong Cha by roasting in a clay pot. The second — “sweet tea” (甜茶, tián chá) — from Gan Tong Cha infusion with added brown sugar, walnut kernels, and fried milk fans (乳扇, rǔshàn) — a specific dairy product of the Bai. The third — “aftertaste tea” (回味茶, huíwèi chá) — with honey, huajiao (花椒, Sichuan pepper) and cinnamon. The San Dao Cha ceremony is the highest expression of Bai hospitality and is conducted during holidays, weddings, births, and when receiving honored guests. The connection of Gan Tong Cha with Buddhist monastic tradition gives it special significance in the context of chan-tea culture (禅茶, chán chá) — the unity of the tea way and Zen Buddhism.

3. Botanical Description and Raw Material:

• Variety / Cultivar: Dali tea — Camellia taliensis (W.W. Sm.) Melch. (大理茶, Dàlǐ Chá). This is a separate species of tea tree from the section Thea of the Theaceae family (Theaceae), closely related but not identical to the common tea plant Camellia sinensis. The type specimen of the species was collected by British botanist George Forrest (G. Forrest) precisely in the vicinity of Gan Tong Si monastery on Cangshan in the early 20th century and described by W.W. Smith in 1917 as Thea taliensis. In 1925, German botanist Melchior transferred the species to the genus Camellia. The Latin species name taliensis derives from “Tali” — the old romanization of the toponym “Dali.” Thus, Gan Tong Cha is tea produced from raw material of the very plant that gave its name to an entire botanical species.
• Botanical features: Camellia taliensis — an evergreen tree (unlike the shrub form of most cultivated tea plants), capable of reaching 20–30 m in height in the wild. Characteristic differences from C. sinensis var. assamica: leaves leathery, oval-elliptical, dark green, glossy, without pubescence on young shoots and buds (in C. sinensis buds are densely pubescent); flowers yellow-white; ovary five-chambered with pubescence; style five-parted. Representative specimen — ancient tea specimen Gan Tong Si No. 1 (感通寺1号古茶树): height 5.8 m, age about 600 years.
• Harvest: Spring harvest (March — early April) is considered most valuable. Autumn harvest is also possible but less common.
• Harvest standard: One bud and one-two upper young leaves (一芽一叶 / 一芽二叶, yī yá yī yè / yī yá èr yè). For highest grades (“Gan Tong Biyu,” 感通碧玉) — exclusively tender buds and one leaf.
• Raw material requirements: Leaves must be fresh, undamaged, uniform in size, harvested in morning hours after dew has dried.

4. Terroir and Cultivation Features:

• Region: Core terroir — foothills and slopes of the Cāngshān range (苍山, Cāngshān, also Diancangshan, 点苍山) in immediate proximity to Gan Tong Si monastery, between Shèngyìng Peak (圣应峰) and Mǎlóng Peak (马龙峰), in the valley between Mòcán Xī stream (莫残溪, Mòcán Xī) and Lóng Xī stream (龙溪, Lóng Xī). Core area comprises about 10 sq. km. Extended zone includes tea gardens in Yínqiáo district (银桥镇, Yínqiáo Zhèn) at the foot of Báiyún Peak (白云峰, Báiyún Fēng), where saplings from old trees were transplanted.
• Growing altitude: 1900–2300 m above sea level. This is one of the highest tea-growing zones in China, which determines the unique character of the tea.
• Soils: Acidic yellow-brown mountain soils (酸性黄棕壤, suānxìng huáng zōng rǎng), rich in minerals and organic matter, with good drainage.
• Climate: Subtropical mountain monsoon with pronounced vertical zonation. Average annual temperature about 13.4 °C. Annual precipitation about 1000 mm. Diurnal temperature variations are significant — 15–20 °C, which promotes slow shoot growth and accumulation of amino acids and aromatic substances. The Cangshan range is characterized by prolonged periods of cloudiness and fog (cloudy period lasts most of the year), thanks to which tea trees receive predominantly diffused light — ideal conditions for increased L-theanine synthesis and reduced bitterness.
• Ecosystem: Tea trees grow in conditions of rich biodiversity of Cangshan (Cangshan has about 2330 species of seed plants). Proximity to coniferous and broad-leaved species forms a complex microclimate and enriches the soil with forest litter.

5. Production Technology:

The production technology of Gan Tong Cha belongs to the chao-qing type (炒青, chǎoqīng) — green tea with fixation by pan-firing — with preservation of elements of the Ming tradition “roasting followed by sun-drying” (炒而复曝, chǎo ér fù pù), which gives the tea a characteristic chestnut aroma.

• Withering (摊青 — tān qīng): Freshly picked leaves are spread in a thin layer in a well-ventilated room for 3–5 hours. Goal — partial moisture removal (to 68–70%), leaf softening and initial aroma development.
• “Kill-green” / Fixation (杀青 — shā qīng): Performed in a roasting machine (炒干机, chǎo gān jī) at about 110 °C. High temperature inactivates enzymes (polyphenol oxidase and peroxidase), preventing catechin oxidation and fixing the green color of the leaf. Stage lasts until the appearance of characteristic “hot chestnut” aroma and until the leaf becomes soft and pliable.
• Rolling (揉捻 — róuniǎn): Brief light rolling (短时轻压, duǎn shí qīng yā). Goal — destroy cellular structure for subsequent better extraction during brewing and give the leaf characteristic rolled form without damaging its integrity.
• Drying (烘干 — hōnggān): Two-stage:
  • Primary drying (初烘, chū hōng): Temperature 70–90 °C. Removal of main mass of residual moisture.
  • Final drying (足烘, zú hōng): Temperature 110–120 °C. Final aroma fixation and bringing moisture content to 4–6%.
• Traditional variant (Ming dynasty): According to historical sources, the historical method included a stage of sun-drying after roasting (炒而复曝): roasted and rolled leaves were laid out on bamboo trays for drying under open sun. This practice, intermediate between chao-qing and shai-qing (晒青, shàiqīng — “sun-drying”), “locked” the chestnut aroma inside the leaf and gave the tea potential for certain aging during long storage, as mentioned by Li Yuanyang: “stored for a long time, the taste becomes even better” (藏之年久，味愈胜也).

6. Organoleptic Characteristics:

• Dry leaf appearance: Leaf curled (卷曲形, juǎnqū xíng), tea particles dense, full, tight (条索肥硕紧实, tiáosuǒ féishuò jǐnshí). Color dark green, oily-glossy, with noticeable white down (墨绿油润显白毫, mòlǜ yóurùn xiǎn báiháo). Tea particle size larger than average, characteristic of Camellia taliensis raw material with its large leaves.
• Dry leaf aroma: Pronounced chestnut tone (熟板栗香, shú bǎnlì xiāng) with floral-fruity undertone, persistent, deep.
• Liquor aroma: Rich, multi-layered: dominated by mature chestnut aroma, complemented by notes of wild flowers and light fruity shade. Aroma is persistent — preserved until late infusions. Cup lid (盖香, gàixiāng) after several minutes demonstrates warm honey-nutty tone.
• Taste: Dense and full-bodied (醇厚, chúnhòu), with pronounced freshness (鲜爽, xiānshuǎng). Initial light bitterness quickly transitions to long and intense sweet aftertaste — returning sweetness (huí gān) (回甘, huígān). Liquor body thick, oily. Tea is distinguished by high brewing resistance (经久耐泡, jīngjiǔ nàipào) — withstands numerous infusions without significant taste loss.
• Liquor color: Tender green, transparent, with bright clarity (嫩绿清澈, nènlǜ qīngchè). With repeated brewings, color may acquire warm yellowish-green shade.
• Spent leaves (wet leaves): Leaves unfold completely, demonstrating dense, elastic texture with even edges. Color — bright green with yellowish shade. Characteristic large leaf blade area, typical of C. taliensis.

7. Chemical Composition:

• Polyphenols (茶多酚, chá duōfēn): Content reaches 25.4% — this is a high indicator, providing powerful antioxidant potential. Main representatives — catechins: epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), epicatechin gallate (ECG), epicatechin (EC). High polyphenol content is characteristic of species from section Thea growing at significant altitudes.
• Amino acids (氨基酸, ānjīsuān): Increased L-theanine content (L-茶氨酸, L-chá ānjīsuān) is due to high-altitude location of tea gardens, large diurnal temperature variations, and prolonged period of diffused light. L-theanine gives the infusion characteristic “freshness” (鲜, xiān) and umami-like fullness.
• Alkaloids: Caffeine (咖啡碱, kāfēi jiǎn) — approximately 2.5–4.0%, theobromine, theophylline. Caffeine content may be somewhat lower than in C. sinensis var. assamica, due to species characteristics of C. taliensis.
• Vitamins: Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) — preserved thanks to minimal processing; B vitamins (B₁, B₂); vitamin E (tocopherols); vitamin K.
• Minerals: Potassium (K), magnesium (Mg), manganese (Mn), zinc (Zn), fluorine (F), selenium (Se) — high mineral content is due to rich mountain soils of Cangshan.
• Essential oils and volatile compounds: Responsible for characteristic chestnut-floral aroma. During chao-qing process, specific volatile aldehydes and pyrazines are formed, creating the “roasted chestnut” tone.
• Composition features: The biochemical profile of Camellia taliensis differs from C. sinensis in unique set of polyphenols and aromatic compounds, making Gan Tong Cha inimitable in character. Studies have shown that C. taliensis contains specific glycosides and polyphenolic compounds not found (or found in small quantities) in standard tea cultivars.

8. Health Properties:

• Antioxidant protection: High polyphenol content (25.4%) provides pronounced antioxidant action, promoting neutralization of free radicals and slowing cellular aging processes.
• Heat-clearing and refreshing action (清热消暑, qīngrè xiāoshǔ): In traditional Chinese medicine, Gan Tong Cha is classified as tea of “cool” nature, effectively dispersing excessive heat and quenching thirst, which is especially valuable in summer.
• Digestive support (消食, xiāoshí): Catechins stimulate gastric juice and enzyme secretion, promoting food breakdown. Tea is traditionally consumed after heavy meals.
• Mild tonic effect: Combination of caffeine and L-theanine provides steady, focused alertness without sharp spikes and subsequent “crashes” characteristic of coffee.
• Cardiovascular support: Polyphenols help reduce “bad” cholesterol (LDL) levels, improve vascular elasticity and normalize blood pressure with regular moderate consumption.
• Immune strengthening: Vitamin C, catechins and minerals collectively support the body’s protective functions.
• Cognitive support: L-theanine promotes alpha brain wave production, improving concentration, memory and reducing stress levels.
• Oral health: Fluorine and catechins suppress growth of bacteria causing caries and gum inflammation.

9. Brewing:

For Gan Tong Cha there are two main methods: traditional Bái roasting method (烤茶法, kǎo chá fǎ) and standard tea brewing.

Bai “roasted tea” method (白族烤茶法, Báizú kǎo chá fǎ):

This is the authentic preparation method, being the first stage of the San Dao Cha ceremony. Also known as “hundred-shake tea” (百抖茶, bǎi dǒu chá) or “thunder tea” (雷响茶, léi xiǎng chá).

1. Heat a small clay pot (陶罐, táo guàn) over coals or fire until hot.
2. Add 5–8 g of dry tea.
3. Continuously shake and rotate the pot so leaves roast evenly without burning. Operation is repeated dozens of times until leaves acquire yellowish shade and begin to emit intense aroma.
4. Sharply pour in boiling water — a characteristic “thunder” pop sounds (hence the name “lei-xiang-cha”).
5. Remove formed foam and pour into cups.
6. Serve hot. Beverage is distinguished by rich amber color, strong roasted aroma and bright bitterness transitioning to deep aftertaste.

Standard infusion brewing:

• Water temperature: 85 °C. Too hot water can scorch tender leaves and extract excessive bitterness.
• Tea quantity: 3–5 g per 150 ml water (ratio approximately 1:50).
• Teaware: Glass vessel or porcelain gàiwǎn (盖碗, gàiwǎn). Glass allows observation of “leaf dance” — large C. taliensis leaves beautifully unfold in water.

1. Warm teaware with hot water and drain.
2. Add tea, pour hot water (85 °C).
3. First infusion — 15 seconds.
4. Subsequent infusions — increase time by 5 seconds (20 sec, 25 sec, etc.).
5. Tea withstands 5–7 full brewings, demonstrating taste evolution from bright freshness to soft sweetness.

10. Storage:

• Temperature: Recommended to store in refrigerator at 0–5 °C for maximum preservation of aroma freshness and liquor color (relevant for current season green tea).
• Container: Airtight, opaque packaging — vacuum foil, tin can with tight lid, ceramic tea vessel with rubber gasket. Avoid plastic and paper.
• Tea enemies: Light, moisture, foreign odors and high temperature. Store away from spices, garlic and other aromatic products.
• Storage period: In airtight packaging under refrigeration — up to 12–18 months without significant quality loss. Without refrigeration — 6–8 months.
• Note: Li Yuanyang in “Description of Dali Prefecture” noted that Gan Tong Cha “stored for a long time, becomes more delicious” (藏之年久，味愈胜也). This remark may refer to historical technology with sun-drying (shai-qing), giving tea potential for aging similar to Yunnan sheng-cha (晒青毛茶). Modern chao-qing variant, however, is better consumed fresh.

11. Price and Counterfeits:

• Price category: Gan Tong Cha belongs to medium and upper price segment among Yunnan green teas. Cost depends on tree age (raw material from ancient C. taliensis trees is significantly more expensive), harvest season (spring harvest is more valuable) and degree of hand processing. Top grades, such as “Gan Tong Biyu” (感通碧玉, Gǎntōng Bìyù — “Jade Green of Gan Tong”), can cost several thousand yuan per kilogram. Tea from expanded plantations — significantly cheaper.
• Cost factors: Limited core terroir area (about 10 sq. km), uniqueness of botanical species (C. taliensis), high-altitude location (labor-intensive harvest), small production volume.
• How to avoid counterfeits:
  • Purchase from verified sellers: Buy tea from specialized tea companies in Dali region (for example, “Gan Tong Chaye,” 感通茶业), having their own tea gardens in core terroir.
  • Appearance evaluation: Authentic Gan Tong Cha is distinguished by large, tightly curled tea particles of dark green color with noticeable white down. Counterfeits from standard Yunnan large-leaf raw material may be less dense and less glossy.
  • Aroma evaluation: Characteristic chestnut aroma with floral-fruity undertone. Absence of chestnut note or presence of musty, stale smell — sign of counterfeit or improper storage.
  • Liquor check: Liquor should be tender green, transparent, with pronounced taste persistence through several brewings. Cloudy or dull liquor — alarming sign.
  • Price adequacy: Suspiciously low price when claiming “tea from old Gan Tong Si trees” — practically guaranteed sign of counterfeit.

12. Interesting Facts:

• Camellia taliensis — botanical species that received its scientific name precisely thanks to tea trees in the vicinity of Gan Tong Si monastery. Thus, Gan Tong Cha is not simply “one of the Yunnan teas,” but tea from the type population of the tree that defined an entire botanical taxon of world significance.
• In 1639, traveler Xu Xiake was so upset that monks hid from him the calligraphic tablets of Li Yuanyang for Yang Shengan’s “Pantheon of Melodies” that he “swallowed one cup [of tea] and departed” (强吞一蛊而别), not managing to properly enjoy Gan Tong Cha. His “unfinished tea” — one of the most ironic episodes of “Notes on Travel in Yunnan.”
• The “rolling thunder” method (雷响茶) when roasting tea in a clay pot — acoustic phenomenon: water, hitting hot roasted leaves, instantly boils, producing characteristic pop resembling thunder roll. This sound effect became one of the “trademarks” of Bai tea culture.
• The San Dao Cha ceremony, inextricably linked with Gan Tong Cha, became one of the components thanks to which “Traditional tea processing techniques and associated social practices in China” were included in the UNESCO List in 2022 — this is world-level recognition for local tea tradition.
• Camellia taliensis is included in the list of protected plants of the second category of the PRC. Wild populations are declining due to deforestation and uncontrolled harvesting, which gives special value to cultivated gardens at Gan Tong Si as a living collection of genetic resources.

13. Comparison with Other Green Teas:

• Yunnan Lü Chá (云南绿茶, Yúnnán Lǜchá): General designation for Yunnan green teas, usually from C. sinensis var. assamica. Gan Tong Cha differs in botanical species (C. taliensis), higher altitude terroir and unique chestnut-floral profile. Yunnan green teas from assamica are usually more powerful and astringent.
• Dian Lü (滇绿, Diān Lǜ) / Shai Lü (晒绿, Shài Lǜ): Yunnan green tea with sun-drying, actually “maocha” (毛茶) — base raw material for sheng pu-erh. Gan Tong Cha historically is closer to this type (due to sun-drying element), but modern chao-qing technology makes it a classic pan-fired green tea.
• Mèng Dǐng Gǎn Lú (蒙顶甘露, Méngdǐng Gānlù): Famous Sichuan green tea from Mount Mengding. Both teas — high-altitude, with long history and monastic roots, but Meng Ding Gan Lu is produced from C. sinensis var. sinensis, has lighter, more delicate profile and is produced by steaming method (蒸青) or light pan-firing.
• Xī Hú Lǒng Jìng (西湖龙井, Xīhú Lóngjǐng): Standard of Chinese flat green tea. Completely different in form (flat vs. curled), technology (hand-pressing in heated wok) and botanical raw material (small-leaf cultivars). Long Jing is lighter, with dominating bean-nutty notes, while Gan Tong Cha is denser, with chestnut “body.”

14. Possible Contraindications:

• Caffeine sensitivity: People with increased caffeine sensitivity are recommended to avoid tea consumption in evening and before sleep.
• Consumption on empty stomach: High polyphenol content may irritate gastric mucosa. Recommended to drink tea after meals or with light snack.
• New tea (新茶, xīn chá): Freshly made Gan Tong Cha is desirable to age at least two weeks before consumption. Unoxidized polyphenols in very fresh tea may cause stomach and intestinal discomfort in sensitive people.
• Pregnancy and breastfeeding: Moderate consumption is acceptable, but doctor consultation is recommended due to caffeine content.
• Drug interactions: Catechins may affect absorption of some medications (especially iron preparations and certain antibiotics). Recommended to separate tea and medication intake by interval of at least one hour.
• Beverage temperature: Optimal drinking temperature — 50–60 °C. Too hot tea may damage esophageal mucosa.

In conclusion:

Dali Gan Tong Cha is tea with exceptional pedigree: it grows on the slopes of Cangshan, in the shadow of a Buddhist monastery with six centuries of history, from trees of the very species that gave science the name Camellia taliensis. Behind the dense chestnut aroma and enveloping sweetness of returning sweetness (huí gān) stand high-altitude terroir, unique botany and living tradition of the Bai people with their philosophy of “three cups” — bitterness, sweetness and long aftertaste. This tea is a find for those tired of standard green teas and seeking something genuinely unusual: wild origin of raw material, connection with Cangshan nature and depth of taste in which centuries of monastic tea culture can be heard.