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Dān cóng yā shǐ xiāng

Dān cóng yā shǐ xiāng · 单丛鸭屎香

The production technology of Dan Cong Ya Shi Xiang combines traditional methods of oolong tea making and features characteristic of the Chaozhou region.

  • Type: Oolong (medium degree of oxidation, 30-60%). Degree of roasting may vary.
  • Category: High-quality oolong teas. Belongs to the group of Dān Cóng (单丛, Dān Cóng) teas, which means “single bushes” or “from a single bush”.
  • Origin: China, Guǎngdōng Province (广东, Guǎngdōng), Cháozhōu Prefecture (潮州, Cháozhōu), Fènghuáng Mountains (凤凰山, Fènghuáng Shān), also known as Phoenix Mountains. Wūdǒng Village (乌崬) on the peak of Wudong Mountain is the most famous growing area.
  • Geographic coordinates: Approximately 23-24° North latitude, 116-117° East longitude.

2. History and Cultural Significance:

  • History: Tea cultivation culture in the Fenghuang Mountains spans more than 900 years. Dan Congs, as a separate group of teas, began to be distinguished about 100-150 years ago. Ya Shi Xiang is one of the oldest and most famous Dan Congs.

  • Name:

    • “Dan Cong” (单丛) - “single bushes” or “from a single bush”. Historically, tea was collected and processed from each tea bush separately, which allowed preserving the individual characteristics of each plant. Today this is not always strictly observed, but “Dan Cong” still means that the tea originates from bushes of a specific variety/cultivar within one small plantation.
    • “Ya Shi Xiang” (鸭屎香) - “Duck Shit Fragrance”. There are several versions of the origin of such an unusual name:
      • Legend of the farmer: The most widespread legend states that a farmer who discovered this tea with a delightful aroma wanted to keep it secret. When neighbors asked him about the name of the tea, he deliberately gave it a repulsive name to discourage them from wanting to try it.
      • Soil: Another version connects the name to the color and composition of the soil on which the first bushes of this variety grew - yellowish-brown, sticky, resembling duck droppings.
      • Leaf shape: There is a suggestion that the name is related to the shape of the leaves, which when dry may resemble duck excrement.
  • Cultural significance: Despite the unpleasant-sounding name, Ya Shi Xiang is one of the most revered and expensive Dan Congs. It is valued for its unique, bright floral aroma (which, of course, has nothing in common with the smell of duck droppings), rich taste and ability to withstand multiple brewings.

3. Botanical Description and Raw Material:

  • Variety: Ya Shi Xiang is not just a tea name, but the name of a varietal cultivar of tea bushes growing in the Fenghuang Mountains. Like all Dan Congs, Ya Shi Xiang is not a variety in the strict botanical sense, but rather a local cultivar, formed as a result of natural selection and unique growing conditions. This variety is distinguished by:
    • Large leaves: Ya Shi Xiang leaves are usually large, elongated, with pronounced veins.
    • Dense leaf texture: The leaf blade is dense, leathery.
    • Dark green color of leaves: Leaves have a rich dark green color, sometimes with a bluish tint.
    • Specific aroma: The Ya Shi Xiang variety is distinguished by a strong, characteristic floral aroma, which manifests already at the stage of bush growth.
    • High yield: Ya Shi Xiang is one of the highest-yielding varieties of Dan Congs.
  • Harvest: Harvest occurs, as a rule, in spring, but can also be conducted in summer and autumn. Spring Ya Shi Xiang is considered most valuable.
  • Harvest standard: They collect the bud and two-three top leaves, sometimes four.
  • Raw material requirements: High. Only healthy, undamaged leaves are used.

4. Terroir and Cultivation:

  • Fenghuang Mountains (Phoenix Mountains): A mountain range located in the northeastern part of Guangdong Province. The mountains are composed mainly of granite and volcanic rocks. They are distinguished by picturesque landscapes, clean air and abundant mists.
  • Growing altitude: Tea plantations are located at altitudes from 400 to 1500 meters above sea level. High-mountain teas (above 1000 meters) are valued especially highly, as they are considered to possess more refined taste and aroma.
  • Soils: Mountainous soils, often rocky, well-drained, rich in minerals. Soils on which Ya Shi Xiang grows often have a yellowish-brown tint.
  • Climate: Subtropical monsoon, with warm, humid winter and hot, rainy summer. Average annual temperature is about 21°C. High humidity and frequent mists create ideal conditions for tea cultivation.
  • Features: Many tea bushes in the Fenghuang Mountains are very old, several hundred years in age. They are called “Lao Cong” (老枞) - “Old bushes”. It is believed that tea from such bushes possesses deeper and more complex taste. Also, a feature of cultivation is minimal use, or complete absence of fertilizers and pesticides.

5. Production Technology:

The production technology of Dan Cong Ya Shi Xiang combines traditional methods of oolong tea making and features characteristic of the Chaozhou region.

  • Harvest (采摘 - cǎi zhāi): Described above.
  • Withering (萎凋 - wěidiāo): Collected leaves are spread in the open air (sun or shade withering) or indoors for several hours. The goal is to remove part of the moisture from the leaves, make them softer and begin the oxidation process.
  • Shaking (摇青 - yáo qīng): Leaves are carefully shaken and stirred on bamboo trays. This stage is conducted several times with breaks for “rest” of the leaves. For Ya Shi Xiang, shaking is usually conducted carefully to preserve leaf integrity and develop floral aroma.
  • Oxidation (发酵 - fājiào): The oxidation process that occurs during shaking and “rest” of the leaves. The degree of oxidation of Ya Shi Xiang is usually medium (30-60%), but may vary depending on the producer and desired flavor profile.
  • Kill-green (杀青 - shā qīng): Roasting at high temperature to stop the oxidation process. For Ya Shi Xiang, not very high temperature is often used at this stage to preserve floral notes.
  • Rolling (揉捻 - róuniǎn): Leaves are given a longitudinally-twisted shape. Rolling can be both manual and mechanical. For Ya Shi Xiang, longitudinal rolling is usually applied, emphasizing the leaf shape.
  • Drying (烘干 - hōnggān): Tea is dried to remove moisture. At this stage, light or more intensive roasting may be conducted, depending on the desired flavor profile.
  • Sorting (分级 - fēnjí): Finished tea is sorted by size and quality.

6. Organoleptic Characteristics:

  • Dry leaf appearance: Relatively large, longitudinally-twisted leaves, dark brown, brownish color with reddish tint. Stems may be present. Sometimes golden-furred tips are visible, but not as abundantly as in white teas.
  • Dry leaf aroma: Very bright, intense, floral, with characteristic notes that are difficult to confuse with other Dan Congs. Despite the name, there are no unpleasant odors in the aroma. Instead, floral notes predominate, often associated with gardenia, jasmine, lily of the valley, magnolia, as well as hints of butter cookies, condensed milk, tropical fruits. Roasting nuances may be present.
  • Liquor aroma: Rich, enveloping, sweet, with dominant floral notes, fruit hints, honey, sometimes with light acidity.
  • Taste: Rich, full-bodied, oily, sweetish, with light astringency and refreshing acidity. The bouquet is dominated by floral notes, with nuances of fruits (peach, lychee, mango), honey, cream, with long, sweet aftertaste.
  • Liquor color: From golden-yellow to amber-orange, transparent, clear. Liquor color depends on the degree of oxidation and roasting.
  • Spent leaves (wet leaves): Whole, elastic leaves, opened after brewing, brownish-green color with reddish edges.

7. Chemical Composition:

Dan Cong Ya Shi Xiang is rich in:

  • Polyphenols (catechins): Antioxidants.
  • Amino acids: Including L-theanine.
  • Alkaloids: Caffeine, theobromine, theophylline.
  • Essential oils: High content of essential oils, especially with floral aromas.
  • Vitamins: C, B group, E, K.
  • Minerals: Potassium, fluorine, magnesium, manganese, iron.

8. Health Properties:

  • Tonic effect: Invigorates, relieves fatigue, increases work capacity, improves concentration.
  • Antioxidant action: Protects cells from free radical damage, slows aging processes.
  • Digestion improvement: Stimulates digestion, promotes food absorption.
  • Warming action: Warms well in cold weather.
  • Cardiovascular system: May contribute to lowering “bad” cholesterol levels, strengthening vessel walls.
  • Relaxing effect: Despite the tonic effect, the aroma and L-theanine in the tea composition promote relaxation and stress relief.
  • Mood elevation: Gives a sense of harmony, joy and pleasure.

9. Brewing:

  • Water temperature: 90-95°C (for most varieties). For lightly roasted and greener variants, water of 85-90°C may be used.

  • Tea amount: 5-7 grams per 150-200 ml of water.

  • Teaware: Gaiwan (traditional Chinese cup with lid) or Yixing clay teapot are ideal. Porcelain teaware can also be used.

  • Process:

    1. Warming teaware: Rinse the gaiwan or teapot with boiling water.
    2. Tea rinse (quick pour): Place tea in the gaiwan, pour a small amount of hot water and immediately drain the water.
    3. First brewing: Pour hot water (90-95°C) over the tea and steep from several seconds to 1 minute (first pour). The time of the first brewing can be very short, literally 5-15 seconds, especially if the tea is of good quality.
    4. Pour the liquor into cups: Completely drain the liquor from the gaiwan or teapot into a fairness cup (cháhǎi), then pour into cups.
    5. Repeated brewings: Dan Cong Ya Shi Xiang can be brewed multiple times (7-10 times, sometimes more), gradually increasing steeping time by 10-30 seconds with each subsequent pour. With each pour, the taste and aroma of the tea will change, revealing new facets.

Important nuances:

  • Don’t oversteep: Too long steeping can make the tea taste astringent and bitter.
  • Listen to the tea: Be guided by your sensations and adjust brewing time depending on desired strength of the liquor.
  • Observe the tea: Pay attention to liquor color, aroma, opening of the tea leaf.

10. Storage:

Dan Cong Ya Shi Xiang should be stored in a dry, dark, cool place, in airtight containers (ceramic, porcelain, glass or tin cans), away from foreign odors.

11. Price and Counterfeits:

Dan Cong Ya Shi Xiang belongs to expensive, elite teas. Its price can vary within very wide limits, from several tens of dollars per 100 grams to several hundreds of dollars for the same weight, and sometimes much more, depending on:

  • Age of bushes: Tea from old bushes (“Lao Cong”) is valued much higher.
  • Growing altitude: High-mountain tea (above 1000 meters) costs more.
  • Raw material quality: Whether select buds and young leaves are used or more mature raw material.
  • Producer’s skill: Experience and reputation of the tea master who produced the tea significantly affects the price.
  • Degree and quality of roasting: Hand roasting over charcoal, performed by an experienced master, significantly increases the tea’s cost.
  • Rarity: Limited production volume and high demand make this tea expensive.
  • Demand: High demand for Dan Congs also affects the price.

Due to high price and popularity, unfortunately, many counterfeits and imitations are present on the market.

How to avoid counterfeits:

  • Buy only from verified sellers: Look for specialized tea shops with good reputation that value their customers and can provide reliable information about tea origin, harvest year, producer. They should also guarantee its authenticity and quality.
  • Beware of too low prices: Suspiciously low price is almost always a sure sign of counterfeit. Real Dan Cong Ya Shi Xiang cannot cost cheaply. Remember that miracles don’t happen.
  • Carefully study appearance: Pay attention to shape, color, integrity of leaves. They should correspond to the description given above. Presence of many broken leaves, dust, foreign impurities is a sign of low quality or counterfeit.
  • Evaluate aroma: Dry tea should possess very rich, complex aroma with characteristic floral notes (gardenia, jasmine, lily of the valley), hints of butter cookies, condensed milk, tropical fruits. Avoid tea with weak, unexpressive, musty or foreign smell. Artificial flavoring, which is sometimes used by unscrupulous sellers, usually betrays itself with excessively sharp, unnatural smell.
  • Check liquor and spent leaves: Liquor color should be from golden-yellow to amber-orange, transparent. Spent leaves should consist of whole, elastic leaves.
  • Be especially careful when buying Ya Shi Xiang from old bushes (“Lao Cong”) or from Wudong Village: Due to limited production volume and high demand, tea from these categories is most often counterfeited.

12. Interesting Facts:

  • “Duck droppings” - deceptive maneuver: As the legend states, the farmer who first discovered this variety deliberately spread rumors about unpleasant smell to scare away competitors and keep the tea secret.
  • High yield: Ya Shi Xiang is one of the most productive Dan Cong varieties, which makes it relatively more accessible than other rare varieties.
  • Chameleon tea: Ya Shi Xiang aroma can change depending on harvest year, growing location and processing technology, but floral notes (especially gardenia) remain an unchanging characteristic.

13. Comparison with Other Dan Congs:

  • Mì Lán Xiāng (蜜兰香 - “Honey Orchid Fragrance”): Considered a “relative” of Ya Shi Xiang, as both varieties originate from the same region and have similar characteristics. Mi Lan Xiang, as a rule, possesses more pronounced honey notes in aroma, while Ya Shi Xiang is dominated by floral notes (gardenia, jasmine).
  • Zhī Lán Xiāng (芝兰香 - “Zhi Lan Orchid Fragrance”): Distinguished by more refined and exquisite floral aroma, with predominance of orchid notes. Ya Shi Xiang has brighter and richer aroma, with broader spectrum of nuances.
  • Xī Rén Xiāng (杏仁香 - “Almond Fragrance”): This Dan Cong possesses characteristic almond aroma, which distinguishes it from Ya Shi Xiang.
  • Róu Guì Xiāng (肉桂香 - “Cinnamon Fragrance”): Has pronounced cinnamon aroma, which makes it unlike Ya Shi Xiang.

14. Alternative Names and Homonyms:

Sometimes claims are encountered that “Da Wu Ye” (大乌叶) is an alternative name for Ya Shi Xiang, but this is not entirely accurate.

  • Dà Wū Yè (大乌叶, Dà Wū Yè): Translates as “Large Dark Leaves”. This is a separate variety of tea bush, also belonging to Dan Congs, but not a synonym for Ya Shi Xiang. It is distinguished by larger leaves and slightly different taste-aromatic profile. Although, some producers may use Da Wu Ye leaves to produce tea under the name “Ya Shi Xiang”, which creates confusion.

In conclusion:

Dan Cong Ya Shi Xiang is a unique and delightful oolong that, despite its unpleasant-sounding name, conquers the hearts of tea connoisseurs worldwide. Its bright, multifaceted floral aroma with notes of gardenia, jasmine and butter cookies, rich, full-bodied taste with hints of fruits and honey, as well as long, sweet aftertaste make it a true gem among oolongs. This tea is not just a beverage, but a true work of art, created in harmony with nature and refined by centuries-old traditions. To try real Dan Cong Ya Shi Xiang means to discover the amazing world of the Phoenix Mountains, feel the energy and power of ancient tea bushes and enjoy true tea perfection. This is tea for special occasions, for unhurried, thoughtful tea drinking, when one wants to immerse oneself in the world of refined tastes and aromas, feel harmony and receive unforgettable impressions.