Dinggudafang

Dinggudafang is the highest grade of the legendary tea Lǎozhú Dàfāng (老竹大方), recognized as the “progenitor of all flat green teas of China” (扁形茶鼻祖). Created by Buddhist monk Dafang during the Ming dynasty on the ridges of Laozhulín, this tea preceded the appearance of the famous Lóngjǐng and remained an imperial tribute tea (贡茶) for several centuries. The characteristic roasted chestnut aroma (板栗香), flat “bamboo-leaf” shape, and golden tips hidden beneath the smooth surface are the calling cards of one of the least known but most historically significant green teas of the Middle Kingdom.

1. Classification and Origin:

• Type: Green tea (绿茶, lǜchá), unfermented. Belongs to the category of chǎoqīng (炒青, chǎoqīng) — pan-fired green teas. Subcategory — flat pan-fired teas (扁形炒青绿茶).
• Category: Famous Teas of China (中国名茶). In 1986 included among state diplomatic teas (国家外交部礼茶). Protected by geographical indication (地理标志). “Progenitor of all flat green teas” (扁形茶鼻祖) — according to Professor Zhǎn Luojiu (詹罗九) from Anhui Agricultural University.
• Origin: China, Ānhuī Province (安徽省, Ānhuī Shěng), Huángshān City (黄山市, Huángshān Shì), Shè County (歙县, Shè Xiàn). Main production zones: Zhúpù Township (竹铺乡, Zhúpù Xiāng), Sānyáng Town (三阳镇, Sānyáng Zhèn), Jīnchuān Township (金川乡, Jīnchuān Xiāng). The finest tea comes from Laozhulín Ridge (老竹岭, Lǎozhú Lǐng), Dafangshan Mountain (大方山, Dàfāng Shān), and Fuquanshan Mountain (福泉山, Fúquán Shān). The region is located on the border of Anhui and Zhejiang provinces, along the ancient “Huihang Ancient Road” (徽杭古道).
• Geographic coordinates: approximately 29°52′ N, 118°52′ E.
• Alternative names: Lǎozhú Dàfāng (老竹大方, “Dafang from Old Bamboo Ridge”) — general name for the entire line; Zhúpù Dàfāng (竹铺大方); Zhūyè Dàfāng (竹叶大方, “Bamboo-leaf Dafang”); Tèsè Dàfāng (铁色大方, “Iron-colored Dafang”); Kaofang (拷方). “Dinggudafang” (顶谷大方) — highest grade of the line.

2. History and Cultural Significance:

• History: The history of Dafang tea spans more than 1,000 years. The earliest mention appears in the “Old History of the Five Dynasties” (《旧五代史》): “In the 1st year of Qianhua [911 CE] in the twelfth month, Liangzhe presented as tribute Dafang tea — 20,000 jin.” Thus, already during the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period (五代十国, 907–960), Dafang tea was tribute tea. However, the modern technology of flat pan-fired Dàfāng is associated with the name of Buddhist monk Dàfāng (大方和尚), who lived during the Míng dynasty (明, 1368–1644). According to the “Records of She County” (《歙县志》): “During the Longqing years [1567–1572], monk Dàfāng lived on Sōngluó Mountain (松萝山) in Xiūníng County (休宁), masterfully produced tea, and the entire prefecture adopted his method.” Dafang was a wandering monk who came from Suzhou to Huizhou, where he developed and spread the technology of tea pan-firing (炒青) — which subsequently became the foundation for producing Sōngluó Tea (松萝茶) and Longjing. Official Long Yīng (龙膺), who served in Huīzhōu during the Wànlǐ era (万历, 1573–1620), personally observed the monk’s work and described his method in the book “Mengshi” (《蒙史》). Scholar Lì Weizhen (李维桢) in “Praise of Dafang’s Image” (《大方象赞》) described the monk: “With beautiful eyebrows and luxuriant beard, soaring like a celestial being.”

  During the Qing dynasty, Dàfāng became imperial tribute tea (贡茶). According to legend, in 1751 Emperor Qiánlóng (乾隆), traveling through Jiangnan, tasted tea from the monastery on Laozhulín and “graciously bestowed” upon it the name “Dafang.” In the 20th century, the tea experienced decline: the boom of Huangshan Maofeng and Taiping Houkui pushed it to the periphery. However, in 1986 Dinggudafang was included among the state diplomatic teas of the PRC Ministry of Foreign Affairs (国家外交部礼茶), confirming its highest status.

• Name:

  • “Dinggu” (顶谷) — “peak, from the upper valley” — indicates the highest grade, collected from the best plantations on ridge peaks.
  • “Dafang” (大方) — double meaning: (1) name of the monk-creator; (2) “magnanimous, generous” — characteristic of the taste. Also possible connection with the name of Dafangshan Mountain (大方山).
  • “Laozhu” (老竹) — “old bamboo” — toponym of Laozhulín Ridge, where the historic plantations are located.

• Cultural significance: Dinggudafang is one of the least known to the general public but most significant for Chinese tea history green teas. Professor Zhǎn Luojiu (詹罗九) from Anhui Agricultural University proved that precisely Dafang is the “progenitor of all flat green teas” (扁形茶鼻祖), and the famous Longjing is its “descendant,” having adopted the flat pan-firing technology. Authors of the “Handbook of Famous Chinese Teas” (《中国名茶志》) Wáng Zhènhéng (王镇恒) and Wáng Guangzhi (王广智) confirmed: “Longjing most likely arose in the late Ming — early Qing and probably developed by borrowing Dafang’s pan-firing technology.”

3. Botanical Description and Raw Material:

• Variety / Cultivar: Zhúpù Zhǒng (竹铺种, Zhúpù Zhǒng) — local population of Camellia sinensis var. sinensis, adapted to the highlands of She County. Spring buds awaken in mid to late March, bud density is high, shoots are short and sturdy, with abundant white down. Leaves are green, cold-resistant. High yield. Tea from Zhúpù Zhǒng is distinguished by characteristic chestnut aroma (板栗香).
• Harvest: Dinggudafang is harvested before Gǔyǔ (谷雨, ~April 20). Standard Laozhu Dafang — from Gǔyǔ to Lìxià (立夏, ~May 6). Spring harvest is best; summer and autumn are acceptable for ordinary grades.
• Harvest standard: Dinggudafang — one bud with two leaves in initial opening stage (一芽二叶初展). Regular Dafang — one bud with two to three leaves.
• Raw material requirements: Whole, undamaged shoots. Harvest in dry weather. Quick delivery to workshop.

4. Terroir and Cultivation Characteristics:

• She County mountain region: Northeastern part of the county, on the Anhui-Zhejiang border. Belongs to the Tiānmùshān Range (天目山脉). Qingliangfeng Peak (清凉峰) — 1,787 m. Mountains are steep, valleys deep, streams numerous. Tea bushes grow among rocks, in crevices and mountain valleys.
• Growing altitude: 800–1,300+ m above sea level. Best plantations (Laozhulín, Fuquanshan) — at altitudes of 1,000–1,300 m.
• Climate: Average annual temperature ~16°C. Precipitation — ~1,800 mm/year. Humidity — 80%+. Frequent morning fogs create natural shading, enhancing accumulation of amino acids and chlorophyll. Cold winters, moderately warm summers. Significant diurnal temperature variation.
• Soils: Top layer — black sandy soil (乌沙); middle — red-yellow soils (红黄壤); reaction — weakly acidic. Granite base, rich in minerals (manganese, potassium, zinc). Soils are loose, well-drained, with high organic content.

5. Production Technology:

Dafang technology is classic flat pan-firing (扁形炒青), inherited from monk Dafang and became the prototype for Longjing. Key stages:

• Harvest (采摘 — cǎizhāi): Hand-picked, early spring.
• Withering (摊晾 — tān liáng): Brief — 2–4 hours on bamboo trays. Loss of some moisture, beginning of aroma formation.
• Kill-green / Fixation (杀青 — shāqīng): In heated wok (铁锅) at ~150°C. Enzyme inactivation, prevention of oxidation. Leaves quickly soften, acquire plasticity. Master works with bare hands, controlling temperature tactilely.
• Flat shaping (做形 — zuò xíng): Key stage distinguishing Dafang from other green teas. Hot leaves are carefully pressed against wok walls with palms, flattening and smoothing, giving characteristic flat, slightly elongated shape resembling bamboo leaf. Requires highest mastery — overheat = burn, under-press = fail to achieve flat shape.
• Drying (烘干 — hōnggān): In several stages at controlled temperature 60–90°C. Traditionally — over charcoal (炭焙), which can impart light “smoky” note. For Dinggudafang, drying is especially delicate — preserving golden tips and chestnut aroma.
• Sorting (分级 — fēnjí): Sifting through bamboo sieves, removing stems and small fraction.

6. Organoleptic Characteristics:

• Dry leaf appearance: Flat, elongated plates, smooth, even, resembling bamboo leaf. Color — dark green with light yellowish tinge (翠绿微黄). Regular Dafang — dark green to “iron” color (铁色), hence the name “Tese Dafang.” Key feature of Dinggudafang: abundance of golden tips (金毫) hidden beneath smooth surface — “bud hidden, not visible” (芽藏而不露).
• Dry leaf aroma: Characteristic roasted chestnut aroma (板栗香, bǎnlì xiāng) — signature marker of Dafang. High, persistent, with light floral overtones (osmanthus, orchid) and sometimes — barely perceptible smoky note from charcoal drying.
• Liquor aroma: Delicate, chestnut-floral, with nutty notes. High and “long” (香高气长). Best batches have light “almond” trail.
• Taste: Dense, rich, 醇厚爽口 — “thick, mellow and refreshing.” Sweet beginning, mild pleasant astringency, light citrus acidity. Aftertaste — long, with chestnut-nutty shades and sweet finish. Compared to Longjing — more “dense” and “deep,” with pronounced sweetness.
• Liquor color: Clear, light yellow with greenish tinge (清澈微黄). Maintains clarity with multiple brewings.
• Spent leaves: Whole, plump, tender leaves, uniform in size, yellow-green color (肥厚嫩匀).

7. Chemical Composition:

• Polyphenols (茶多酚): High content of catechins, especially epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) — most powerful antioxidant. Unfermented processing preserves catechins in native form.
• Amino acids (氨基酸): Increased L-theanine content (thanks to high-mountain terroir and abundant fogs). L-theanine provides sweet taste and relaxing effect.
• Alkaloids: Caffeine — moderate content, in tannin-bound form, providing mild and prolonged tonic effect.
• Vitamins: C (high — green tea preserves more vitamin C than red tea), B₁, B₂, E, K, PP.
• Minerals: Enriched mineral profile thanks to granite soils: zinc, manganese, potassium, phosphorus, calcium, iron.
• Chlorophyll and carotenoids: High content — provide rich green leaf color and antioxidant properties.
• Volatile aromatic compounds: Complex of pyrazines and Maillard reaction products (formed during pan-firing), responsible for characteristic chestnut aroma.

8. Health Properties:

• Antioxidant protection: High EGCG content helps neutralize free radicals, protecting cells from oxidative stress.
• Mild tonification: Caffeine in tannin-bound form + L-theanine = steady tone without anxiety.
• Metabolism support: Dafang is historically known as “tea for weight loss” (减肥之王, “king of weight loss”) — catechins accelerate metabolism and promote fat oxidation. Japanese studies showed that Dafang surpasses oolong and Tieguanyin in ability to reduce free fatty acid and neutral fat levels.
• Cardiovascular system support: Catechins improve vascular elasticity, promote cholesterol and blood pressure normalization.
• Cognitive support: L-theanine improves concentration and memory.
• Antibacterial action: Polyphenols suppress pathogenic microflora, support oral health (tooth enamel strengthening due to fluoride).

9. Brewing:

• Water temperature: 80–85°C. Delicate high-mountain green tea cannot tolerate boiling water — too high temperature will produce bitterness and “cooked” taste.
• Tea quantity: 3–5 g per 150–200 ml water.
• Teaware: Glass cup (玻璃杯) — allows observing the “dance” of flat tea leaves gently settling to bottom. Porcelain gaiwan — for more precise extraction control. Small teapot (up to 300 ml).
• Process:
  1. Warm teaware: Rinse with hot water.
  2. Add tea: 3–5 g.
  3. Rinse: Quick 5–10 second pour — optional; many masters recommend skipping to avoid losing first aroma.
  4. First infusion: 1–2 minutes. Observe unfolding of flat tea leaves — aesthetic pleasure.
  5. Subsequent brewings: 4–6 infusions, increasing time by 30–60 seconds. Dafang holds repeated brewings well, maintaining chestnut aroma and sweetness.

10. Storage:

• Container: Airtight, opaque — foil pouch with zip closure, tin can, ceramic vessel.
• Conditions: Dry, cool, dark place, away from foreign odors. For long-term storage — refrigerator (0–5°C) in absolutely airtight packaging (green tea is especially sensitive to oxidation and moisture).
• Shelf life: Optimal — up to 12 months. Fresh tea (first 3–6 months) — best chestnut aroma. When stored in refrigerator — up to 18 months.
• Tea enemies: Light, moisture, oxygen, high temperature, foreign odors. Green tea is the most sensitive of all tea types.

11. Price and Counterfeits:

Dinggudafang is relatively rare tea: annual production volume — about 3 tons. Cost: standard Laozhu Dafang — 100–300 yuan/500 g; Dinggudafang (highest grade) — 500–1,500 yuan/500 g; collectible hand-made batches — up to 2,000+ yuan.

How to avoid counterfeits:

• Don’t confuse with Longjing: Dafang’s flat shape visually resembles Longjing, but color is darker (dark green with yellowness vs bright light green of Longjing), aroma is chestnut (vs beany/grassy of Longjing), taste is denser and sweeter.
• Check origin: Authentic Dàfāng is from Shé County (歙县), Zhupu, Sanyang, Jinchuan townships. Teas from Sichuan or other provinces sold as “Dafang” are not authentic.
• Look for chestnut aroma (板栗香): Signature marker. If instead there’s “grassy” or “fishy” smell — tea is not from She County or improperly processed.
• Evaluate golden tips: Authentic Dinggudafang has abundance of golden tips hidden beneath smooth surface (芽藏而不露). Counterfeits lack tips.

12. Interesting Facts:

• Progenitor of Longjing: According to Professor Zhan Luojiu and “Handbook of Famous Chinese Teas,” Longjing’s flat pan-firing technology was borrowed from Dafang. Monk Dafang is indirect “father” of the world’s most famous green tea.
• 911 CE — first mention as tribute tea: Dafang tea appears in “Old History of Five Dynasties” as Liangzhe tribute — more than 1,100 years ago.
• State diplomatic tea (1986): Dinggudafang was included among teas presented to foreign delegations on behalf of PRC — alongside Longjing and Biluochun.
• “King of weight loss”: Japanese studies showed Dafang surpasses oolong and Tieguanyin in ability to reduce free fatty acid levels — earning it the nickname “减肥之王” (“King of weight loss”).
• 3 tons per year: Annual Dinggudafang production volume — about 3 tons. For comparison: Longjing production — thousands of tons. This is one of the rarest famous green teas of China.
• “徽茶遗珍” — “Forgotten treasure of Huizhou”: This is how modern tea experts call Dafang: tea with thousand-year history that found itself in shadow of its more “promoted” neighbors — Huangshan Maofeng and Taiping Houkui.

13. Comparison with Other Green Teas:

• Lóngjǐng (龙井, Lóng Jǐng): “Descendant” of Dafang. Also flat pan-fired, but from Zhejiang Province. Color — bright green (vs dark green of Dafang). Aroma — beany, grassy (vs chestnut). Taste — more “fresh” and “light”; Dafang is denser, sweeter, with more pronounced aftertaste. Longjing is “extrovert,” Dafang is “introvert.”
• Huángshān Máofēng (黄山毛峰, Huángshān Máofēng): “Neighbor” from Anhui Province. Not flat but twisted; abundance of white tips. Aroma — orchid (vs chestnut). Taste — more “floral” and “airy.” Both teas from Huangshan mountains, but completely different in style.
• Tàipíng Hóukuí (太平猴魁, Tàipíng Hóukuí): Another Anhui “neighbor.” Famous for unusually large, flat leaves with “net pattern.” Taste — “orchid and vanilla,” body — medium. Dafang is denser, richer, with chestnut-nutty depth.
• Lu’an Guāpiàn (六安瓜片, Lù’ān Guāpiàn): Unique green tea from leaves only (without buds). Shape — “melon seed.” Aroma — fresh, grassy-floral. Taste — more “green” and “refreshing,” less “deep” than Dafang.

In Conclusion:

Dinggudafang is a patriarch tea: quiet, unnoticed, forgotten by many — yet standing at the origins of the world’s most famous flat green tea tradition. Monk Dafang, “with beautiful eyebrows and luxuriant beard, soaring like a celestial being,” with his own hands created technology that centuries later gave the world Longjing. But Dafang itself remained on its mountains — in Laozhulín valleys, among bamboo groves and morning fogs, where it is still made by hand, three tons per year.

Chestnut aroma, dense sweet taste, flat tea leaves with golden tips hidden beneath smooth surface — all this is Dinggudafang. Tea for those who seek in green tea not fashion but depth; not lightness but character. “Forgotten treasure of Huizhou” — 徽茶遗珍 — awaits its hour. And those who discover it will be richly rewarded.