Éméi Máo Fēng

Éméi Máo Fēng is a green tea (绿茶) from the Mengshan tea region in Sichuan Province that gained worldwide recognition at the 24th International Food Exhibition in 1985. Its distinctive feature is the proprietary technology of “three pan-firings, three rollings, four dryings” (三炒三揉四烘), combining the advantages of pan-fired and oven-dried green teas. The name “Mao Feng” (毛峰, “downy peaks”) refers to the abundance of white down on the buds—a sign of high-quality raw material.

1. Classification and Origin:

• Type: Green tea (绿茶, lǜchá), non-oxidized. Belongs to the combined type “hongchao jiehe” (烘炒结合, hōng chǎo jiéhé)—a technology that combines pan-firing and oven-drying at different processing stages.
• Category: Famous tea of Sìchuān (四川名茶, Sìchuān míngchá). Product with geographical indication protection (国家地理标志保护名茶). Repeatedly included among the “Famous Teas of China” (中国名茶). Known as the “new star of the Mengshan tea region” (蒙山茶区名茶新秀).
• Origin: China, Sìchuān Province (四川省, Sìchuān shěng), Ya’an City (雅安市, Yǎ’ān shì), Yǔchéng District (雨城区, Yǔchéng qū), Fèngmíng Township (凤鸣乡, Fèngmíng xiāng), Guìhuā Village (桂花村, Guìhuā cūn). Located at the foot of the famous Mount Méngdǐng (蒙顶山, Méngdǐng Shān)—one of the world’s most ancient tea regions.
• Geographic coordinates: approximately 30.0° N, 103.3° E.

2. History and Cultural Significance:

History:

The Ya’an-Mengding region is one of the cradles of Chinese tea culture. Lù Yǔ (陆羽, Lù Yǔ) in “The Classic of Tea” (茶经, Chájīng, 760s) noted Mount Éméi (峨眉山, Éméi Shān) as an important tea region during the Tang era. During the Sòng period (宋, Sòng), local tea became an imperial tribute (贡品, gòngpǐn). The great poet Sù Dōngpō (苏东坡, Sū Dōngpō, 1037–1101) celebrated the local teas in his famous line “Since ancient times, fine tea resembles a beautiful woman” (从来佳茗似佳人, cónglái jiā míng sì jiā rén).

The modern history of Emei Mao Feng begins in 1978, when the Ya’an Regional Tea Company (雅安地区茶叶公司) together with tea growers from Guihua Village in Fengming Township began developing a new variety. The raw material consisted of early spring shoots of the standard “one bud with one beginning-to-unfurl leaf” (一芽一叶初展), and the key technological solution was the innovation “hongchao jiehe”—combining pan-firing and oven-drying, previously not applied in this region. The new tea was named “Emei Mao Feng”—in association with Mount Emei and the downy buds.

In 1982, the tea was recognized as a “Famous Tea of China” (全国名茶, quánguó míngchá) at a national competition. True triumph came in 1985: at the 24th International Food Exhibition in Lisbon (Portugal), Éméi Máo Fēng won the Gold Quality Medal (世界食品金质奖). The expert commission noted the absence of pesticide residues and compliance with world quality standards—a high assessment for Chinese tea in the mid-1980s.

Name:

• Emei (峨眉, Éméi)—Mount Emeishan, one of the Four Sacred Buddhist Mountains of China (四大佛教名山, Sì Dà Fójiào Míngshān), a UNESCO World Heritage site. Although the tea is not produced directly on Emeishan but in the neighboring Ya’an area at the foot of Mendingshan, the name emphasizes belonging to the extensive tea region of Western Sichuan.
• Mao (毛, máo)—“down, fuzz”—indicates the abundant covering of buds with white hairs (bai hao, 白毫, báiháo), visible to the naked eye.
• Feng (峰, fēng)—“peak, summit”—a metaphor for the bud shape resembling a mountain peak, and a sign of highest quality.

Cultural significance:

Emei Mao Feng occupies a special place in Sichuan tea culture as a symbol of transition from traditional production of mass teas (for which the Ya’an region was known primarily through Tibetan pressed tea—zangcha, 藏茶, zàngchá) to producing high-quality green teas of world standard. The international recognition of 1985 was one of the first cases when a Sichuan green tea received such high evaluation abroad. Proximity to Mount Mengding—the place where, according to legend, master Wú Lǐzhēn (吴理真, Wú Lǐzhēn) planted the first “seven trees” (七株茶, qī zhū chá) as early as the 2nd century BCE—gives the tea deep historical-cultural context. The tea organically fits into the glorious tradition of the Mengding region, including the famous Méngdǐng Gānlù (蒙顶甘露) and Méngdǐng Huángyá (蒙顶黄芽).

3. Botanical Description and Raw Material:

• Species: Camellia sinensis var. sinensis.
• Variety / Cultivar: Primary—Sichuan small-leaf variety (四川小叶种, Sìchuān xiǎoyè zhǒng), possessing high frost resistance. Additionally used is the local population variety (本地群体种). On old plots in Guihua Village, tea bushes over 30 years old are preserved. The weight of 100 shoots of the standard “one bud—one leaf” is about 45 g—an indicator characterizing the tenderness and uniformity of raw material.
• Harvest: Early spring (早春, zǎochūn). Main period—end of March to early April, before the Qīngmíng festival (清明, Qīngmíng) and in the first days after it.
• Harvest standard: For premium grade (特级, tèjí)—single buds ≥90%, length ≤2 cm. For first grade (一级)—one bud with one beginning-to-unfurl leaf ≥80%. For second grade (二级)—one bud with two leaves.

4. Terroir and Cultivation:

• Growing altitude: 600–800 m above sea level. Guihua Village is located on the western edge of the Sichuan Basin, in the transition zone between lowland and the Tibetan Plateau.
• Climate: Subtropical humid, with pronounced cloudiness. Average annual temperature—14–16°C. Annual precipitation—over 1000 mm. Number of foggy and cloudy days—more than 200 per year. High proportion of diffused light stimulates accumulation of amino acids and chlorophyll in young shoots—amino acid content in spring harvest is ≥3.0%.
• Soils: Brown earth (棕壤, zōng rǎng) with deep, loose fertile horizon. pH 4.5–6.5—optimal acidity. Organic matter content—>1.0%. Territory is free from industrial pollution.
• Ecology: Forest coverage—60%. Irrigation—with spring water from the upper reaches of the Hàn River (汉江). Proximity to Mount Mengding creates a unique microclimate with constant high humidity and gentle temperature fluctuations.

5. Production Technology:

Emei Mao Feng is distinguished by the proprietary technology of “three pan-firings, three rollings, four dryings” (三炒三揉四烘, sān chǎo sān róu sì hōng)—unique for Sichuan green teas. The principle consists of multiple alternation of pan-firing (炒, chǎo), rolling (揉, róu) and drying (烘, hōng), which allows to “take aroma from pan-firing and avoid astringency” (扬烘青之香、避炒青之涩).

• Spreading (摊放, tānfàng): Freshly picked shoots are spread for moisture equalization. Preparatory stage.
• First fixation / pan-firing (杀青 / 一炒, shāqīng / yī chǎo): High-temperature treatment to stop enzymatic oxidation. Formation of aroma base.
• First rolling (初揉, chū róu): Light rolling—release of cell juice without damaging leaf structure.
• Second pan-firing (二炒, èr chǎo): Additional heating—deepening aromatic transformations, enhancing chestnut and nutty notes.
• Second rolling (二揉, èr róu): Formation of denser leaf structure.
• Third pan-firing (三炒, sān chǎo): Final pan-firing—fixing aroma and final formation of flavor framework.
• Third rolling (三揉, sān róu): Giving the leaf characteristic shape—tightly twisted, thin, uniform shoots.
• Four-stage drying (四烘, sì hōng): Series of dryings at gradually decreasing temperature. Bringing moisture to stable level, fixing shape and aroma.
• Shaping and raising down (整形提毫, zhěngxíng tí háo): Hand shaping—intangible cultural heritage (非遗技艺, fēiyí jìyì). At this stage, the master manually straightens buds and “raises” white hairs, giving the tea its characteristic “silvery” appearance.
• Final drying (足干, zúgān): Final bringing to commercial moisture content (≤6.5%).

6. Organoleptic Characteristics:

• Dry leaf appearance: Tightly twisted thin shoots (条索紧细匀卷, tiáosuǒ jǐnxì yúnjuǎn), tender green color with oily luster (嫩绿油润, nèn lǜ yóu rùn). Silver buds are distinctly visible (银芽秀丽, yín yá xiùlì). Abundant covering with white hairs—for premium grade, bai hao coverage is ≥85%.
• Dry leaf aroma: Clean, fresh (清香, qīngxiāng) with pronounced undertone of tender chestnut (嫩栗香, nèn lìxiāng)—characteristic note of spring harvest. Delicate floral overtones in the finish.
• Liquor aroma: Fresh, clean, with stable chestnut base. Aroma stably manifests throughout several infusions. When cooling—soft grassy-floral notes.
• Taste: Xiānshuǎng (鲜爽, xiānshuǎng)—“fresh and brisk”—key descriptor. Pronounced amino acid freshness (umami component). Body—medium, harmonious (醇, chún—“full, balanced”). Extended returning sweetness (回甘, huígān) with prolonged salivation (生津, shēngjīn). Bitterness and astringency are minimal when temperature regime is observed.
• Liquor color: Slightly greenish-yellow (微黄而碧绿, wēi huáng ér bìlǜ), transparent and bright. Delicate opalescence, characteristic of teas with high amino acid content.
• Spent leaves (叶底, yèdǐ): Tender green, uniform (嫩绿匀整, nèn lǜ yún zhěng). Whole buds are distinctly visible—bright, glossy (全芽明亮, quán yá míngliàng). Leaf is elastic, retaining shape.

7. Chemical Composition:

The chemical profile of Emei Mao Feng is distinguished by increased caffeine content and favorable balance of amino acids and polyphenols, conditioned by the terroir of the western edge of the Sichuan Basin.

• Polyphenols (茶多酚, chá duōfēn): Content for first grade—≥28% of dry weight. Main catechins: EGCG, ECG, EC, EGC. Polyphenols are responsible for moderate astringency, antioxidant action and stimulation of fat metabolism.
• Amino acids (氨基酸, ānjīsuān): Content in spring harvest—≥3.0%. L-theanine—dominant amino acid, forming fresh, umami-like taste and providing calming balance with caffeine.
• Alkaloids: Caffeine content (咖啡碱)—30% higher than average green tea (according to producer data). This provides pronounced tonic effect. Theobromine and theophylline are present.
• Water-soluble extractives (水浸出物): For premium grade—≥45%. High indicator confirming richness and fullness of taste.
• Vitamins: Vitamin C (high content, characteristic of early harvest green teas), B-group vitamins (B₁, B₂), carotenoids.
• Minerals: Fluorine (content provides caries-preventive effect—effectiveness of suppressing cariogenic bacteria is 1.3 times higher than ordinary green tea, according to producer data). Potassium, zinc, manganese, iron, magnesium.
• Chlorophyll: High content—result of abundant fogs and diffused light—determines rich color of leaf and liquor.

8. Health Properties:

• Pronounced tonic effect: Increased caffeine content provides rapid awakening and increased concentration. L-theanine softens caffeine action, preventing nervousness.
• Antioxidant protection: Catechins, especially EGCG—among the most powerful natural antioxidants, neutralizing free radicals and slowing cellular aging.
• Fat breakdown assistance: Polyphenols stimulate fat metabolism. According to producer data, fat breakdown efficiency after meals increases by 40% with regular consumption. Tea is especially good after fatty food.
• Tooth strengthening and caries prevention: Fluorine and catechins suppress activity of cariogenic bacteria, strengthen tooth enamel.
• Cardiovascular system support: Polyphenols contribute to lowering “bad” cholesterol levels and normalizing blood pressure.
• Digestion improvement: Stimulates gastric juice production, facilitates digestion of heavy food.
• Cognitive support: Synergy of caffeine and L-theanine improves reaction speed, attention and learning ability.

Note: tea is not a medicinal product. It is recommended to limit consumption to 3 cups per day to avoid excessive caffeine intake.

9. Brewing:

• Water temperature: 80–90°C. For premium grade (特级)—80°C. For first and second grades—up to 85–90°C.
• Tea amount: 3 g per 150–180 ml (glass cup or porcelain cup); 5–7 g per 100–120 ml gaiwan.
• Water: Soft, with low mineralization. Ideally—spring water.
• Teaware: Glass cup or white porcelain cup (white background emphasizes delicate green color of liquor). Gàiwǎn (盖碗) for gongfu style.

Process (glass cup):

1. Warm cup with hot water, drain.
2. Add 3 g tea to cup.
3. Pour water (80–90°C) to 1/3 volume. Gently swirl cup for “awakening aroma” (摇香, yáoxiāng).
4. Wait until leaves begin to unfurl.
5. Add water to 7/10 cup volume.
6. Steep 3 minutes, then drink.
7. When drinking to 1/3—add water. Withstands 3–4 infusions in cup.

Process (gaiwan, gongfu):

1. Warm gaiwan with boiling water.
2. Add 5–7 g tea.
3. First infusion: 80–85°C, 15–20 seconds.
4. Second infusion: 20–25 seconds.
5. Subsequent: increase by 5–10 seconds.
6. Withstands 5–7 infusions. Second grade (more mature leaf)—up to 4+ full infusions with pronounced durability.

Important notes:

• Do not brew with boiling water (>90°C)—liquor yellows, bitterness appears, vitamins are destroyed.
• Fresh tea is recommended to rest 7 days in dark place for “removing fire” (醒茶褪火气, xǐng chá tuì huǒqì).
• Do not drink on empty stomach—tannins irritate mucous membrane. Optimal—one hour after meals.
• Do not consume yesterday’s liquor.

10. Storage:

• Temperature: Optimally—in refrigerator (0–5°C), in airtight packaging. Green teas are sensitive to heat and light.
• Container: Foil vacuum bags, tin cans with tight lid. After opening—store airtight in refrigerator and consume within one month.
• Enemies: Light, moisture, heat, foreign odors. Do not store near spices, fruits, strongly scented products.
• Shelf life: Best qualities—in first 6–12 months after production. With proper refrigerated storage, freshness is preserved up to one year.

11. Price and Counterfeits:

Price category:

• Premium (特级): from 800 yuan per jin (500 g) and higher. Single buds, silvery down, chestnut aroma of piercing purity.
• First grade (一级): 400–600 yuan per jin. Main commercial product, combining high quality and accessibility. One bud with one leaf.
• Second grade (二级): Accessible everyday category. One bud with two leaves, denser taste, increased brewing durability.

How to avoid counterfeits:

• Appearance: Genuine Emei Mao Feng—thin, tightly twisted shoots with visible silvery hairs on buds. Counterfeits—often large-leaf, loose, without pronounced down.
• Aroma: Clean, with delicate chestnut note. Artificial flavoring or “flat,” inexpressive smell—reason for suspicion.
• Liquor: Transparent, greenish-yellow. Cloudy or brown liquor—sign of old or low-quality raw material.
• Taste: Fresh, with returning sweetness. Coarse bitterness, “woody” aftertaste—characteristic of counterfeits from low-quality raw material.
• Check labeling: Geographic indication product should have corresponding certification. Buy from authorized producers from Yǔchéng District (雨城区).

12. Interesting Facts:

• Gold in Lisbon. In 1985, Emei Mao Feng became one of the first Sichuan green teas to receive international award—Gold Quality Medal at the 24th World Food Exhibition in Portugal. The jury especially emphasized absence of pesticides—in mid-1980s this was an exceptional achievement.
• Triple pan-firing—triple rolling. The technology “三炒三揉四烘” is unique in the world of green tea. It combines the aroma of pan-fired teas (炒青) with the softness of oven-dried ones (烘青), avoiding the astringency of the former and blandness of the latter. Hand shaping at the final stage is registered intangible cultural heritage.
• Neighbor of Mendingshan. Guihua Village, where Emei Mao Feng is produced, is located in immediate proximity to Mount Méngdǐng (蒙顶山)—the legendary place where, according to tradition, monk Wu Lizhen first cultivated tea more than 2000 years ago. Thus, Emei Mao Feng is the spiritual heir of one of the world’s most ancient tea traditions.
• Caffeine record holder. Caffeine content in Emei Mao Feng is 30% higher than average green tea. This makes it one of the most invigorating teas of the green category—excellent choice for morning tea drinking.
• From Tibetan “brick” to world award. The Ya’an region for centuries was known primarily as supplier of pressed Tibetan tea (藏茶)—coarse, dark, utilitarian. The appearance of Emei Mao Feng in 1978 symbolically turned the page: Ya’an proved it could produce not only mass tea for Tea Horse Road caravans, but also refined green tea of world class.

13. Comparison with Other Green Teas:

• Méngdǐng Gānlù (蒙顶甘露, Méngdǐng Gānlù): Closest “neighbor”—famous tea from the same Mengshan region. Ganlu is one of China’s most ancient twisted green teas, with more pronounced floral and “meadow” note. Emei Mao Feng is more chestnut-like, with clearer body and pronounced tonic effect. Both teas reflect Western Sichuan terroir, but through different technological prisms.
• Huángshān Máo Fēng (黄山毛峰, Huángshān Máo Fēng): “Namesake” from Anhui Province—one of the “Ten Great Teas of China.” Anhui Mao Feng is more delicate, with lighter body and pronounced floral-orchid aroma. Sichuan version is denser, more chestnut-like, with higher caffeine content. Processing also differs: Huangshan is predominantly oven-dried (烘青), Éméi is combined (烘炒结合).
• Zhú Yeqing (竹叶青, Zhúyèqīng): Flagship modern green tea of Sichuan, produced directly on Emeishan. Flat shape, with emphasis on visual elegance and delicacy. Emei Mao Feng—twisted shape, more “rustic” and bodied, with deeper aroma and greater brewing durability. Different aesthetics of one region.
• Éméi Xuěyá (峨眉雪芽, Éméi Xuěyá): Another famous tea of the Emei region—thin “snow buds” with delicate, almost airy texture. Xueya is more delicate and fresh; Mao Feng is richer and more aromatic, with more pronounced chestnut profile.

In conclusion:

Emei Mao Feng is a bridge tea between the ancient tea culture of Mendingshan and modern Sichuan tea industry. Its unique technology of “three pan-firings, three rollings, four dryings” is the fruit of creative search by masters of the late 1970s, striving to create tea that absorbed the best from both worlds of green leaf processing. The result is tea with pure chestnut aroma, fresh, invigorating taste and surprisingly harmonious body. The international gold of 1985 is not just an award to one tea, but recognition that the land that gave the world the legend of the first tea tree continues to create.