Huángjīn Guì

Huángjīn Guì is one of the four famous oolongs of Ānxī County alongside Tiěguānyīn (铁观音), Běn Shān (本山) and Máo Xiè (毛蟹). Among all existing oolong varieties, this tea is distinguished by the earliest harvest times and an extraordinarily high, “sky-piercing” aroma, for which it has long been called “Tou Tian Xiang” (透天香) — “Aroma Penetrating Heaven” in Anxi.

1. Classification and Origin:

• Type: Oolong (semi-oxidized tea). Southern Fújiàn oolong (闽南乌龙, Mǐnnán Wūlóng) with light oxidation. Oxidation level in traditional “qingxiang” (清香, qīngxiāng) style is about 15–30%; in more roasted versions — up to 35–40%.
• Category: Famous Teas of China (中国名茶). One of the four classic oolong varieties of Anxi County. Product with geographical indication (中国国家地理标志产品).
• Origin: China, Fújiàn Province (福建省, Fújiàn Shěng), Quánzhōu City (泉州市, Quánzhōu Shì), Ānxī County (安溪县, Ānxī Xiàn). Birthplace of the variety — Luò Yán Village (罗岩村, Luóyán Cūn) and Méi Zhuāng Village (美庄村, Měizhuāng Cūn) in Hǔqiū Township (虎邱镇, Hǔqiū Zhèn). Main production areas: Hǔqiū (虎邱), Dàpíng (大坪), Jingu (金谷), Jiandou (剑斗), Cannei (参内).
• Geographic coordinates: Approximately 25°03′ North latitude, 117°58′ East longitude (Huqiu area).

2. History and Cultural Significance:

• History: Huángjīn Guī was created during the Qīng dynasty (清朝, Qīng Cháo), during the reign period under the motto Xiánfēng (咸丰, Xiánfēng), that is, from 1850 to 1860. There are two main legends about the tea’s origin.

  According to the first, around 1860, a young man named Lín Ziqin (林梓琴) from Luóyán Village married a girl Wáng Dān (王淡) from Zhuyang Village (珠洋村) in Xīpíng (西坪). According to the local custom “dui yue” (对月) — a month after the wedding, the bride visited her parents — and when returning to her husband’s house, she had to bring “dai qing” (带青): living shoots symbolizing continuity and fertility of the lineage. Wang Dan’s mother gave her daughter two tea bush seedlings. The spouses planted them by the house, the plants took root and gave lush shoots. The tea made from their leaves had a golden infusion and extraordinary aroma reminiscent of cinnamon tree flowers. Since in the Southern Fujian dialect (Minnanhua) the word “Wang” (王) sounds similar to “Huang” (黄 — “yellow”), and “Dan” (淡) — to “Dan/Yan” (棪/旦), the tea was named Huáng Dān (黄旦/黄棪) in honor of the wife.

  According to the second legend, tea grower Wèi Zhèn (魏珍) from Luóyán was passing by the Tianbian Lǐng (天边岭) mountain ridge near Beixi (北溪) and noticed an unusual golden-yellow tea bush in a stone crevice. He transplanted branches home, propagated the plant by layering method and made tea from its leaves. When they brewed the first batch, the aroma spread throughout the room even before they removed the lid from the cup: delighted neighbors called this tea “Tou Tian Xiang” (透天香) — “Aroma Penetrating Heaven.” By the color of the leaves and infusion, the tea was named Huang Dan.

  In 1925, tea merchant Lín Jintai (林金泰) renamed the tea for export supplies to Southeast Asia: it became known as Huángjīn Guì (黄金桂), which emphasized its value. The name caught on instantly — among overseas Chinese this tea enjoyed enormous popularity, and merchants joked: “More expensive than gold.”

  In recent history, Huangjin Gui received a number of state awards. In 1982, “Special Huangjin Gui” produced by Anxi Tea Factory was recognized by the Ministry of Commerce as a “Product of Excellent Quality.” In 1984, the Huáng Dān cultivar passed certification by the State Committee for Tea Variety Approval and received the status of national standard variety (编号 GS13008-1985). In 1985, Huangjin Gui was awarded the “Golden Cup” of the Ministry of Agriculture, Animal Husbandry and Fisheries and the title “National Tea” (中国名茶). In 1986, the Ministry of Commerce awarded it the title “National Famous Tea” (全国名茶).

• Name:

  • “Huangjin” (黄金, Huángjīn) — “gold,” “golden.” Indicates the golden color of the infusion and high value of the tea: by the metaphor “precious as gold.”
  • “Gui” (桂, Guì) — “cinnamon tree,” “osmanthus” (Osmanthus fragrans). Reflects the characteristic floral-spicy aroma reminiscent of osmanthus blossoms.
  • The full name thus translates as “Golden Osmanthus” or “Golden Cinnamon.”
  • Alternative names: Huáng Dàn (黄旦, Huáng Dàn), Huáng Yǎn (黄棪, Huáng Yǎn), as well as poetic nicknames “Qingming Cha” (清明茶, Qīngmíng Chá — “Qingming Festival Tea,” indicating early ripening) and “Tou Tian Xiang” (透天香 — “Aroma Penetrating Heaven”).

• Cultural significance: Huangjin Gui occupies a special place among Anxi oolongs. Famous tea scholar Chén Chuán (陈椽, Chén Chuán) in his work “Famous Teas of China” (《中国名茶》) called the aroma of Huangjin Gui “intoxicating and unique.” Another patriarch of tea science — Zhāng Tiānfú (张天福, Zhāng Tiānfú) — in the monograph “Fujian Oolongs” (《福建乌龙茶》) noted the “exceptional property of ‘tou tian xiang’ — aroma penetrating through heaven.” For generations of Southern Fújiàn emigrants (華僑) in Southeast Asia, Huangjin Gui became a symbol of nostalgia for homeland — tea that reminded of the taste and smell of home. In addition, Huang Dan is a key parent variety in modern breeding: it was on its basis (as paternal plant) in crossing with Tieguanyin (maternal plant) that popular highly aromatic cultivars Huáng Guānyīn (黄观音, Huáng Guānyīn), Jīn Guānyīn (金观音, Jīn Guānyīn, also known as Mingke-1, 茗科1号), Jīn Mǔdān (金牡丹, Jīn Mǔdān) and Huáng Méiguī (黄玫瑰, Huáng Méiguī) were developed.

3. Botanical Description and Raw Material:

• Variety / Cultivar: For producing Huangjin Gui, the eponymous cultivar Huáng Dàn (黄旦, Huáng Dàn) is used, registered as Hua Cha No. 5 (华茶5号). This is an asexual (vegetatively propagated, 无性系) variety belonging to the species Camellia sinensis var. sinensis. Botanical characteristics:

  • Plant type: Small tree (小乔木型, xiǎo qiáomù xíng), medium-leaf class (中叶类), early-maturing (早芽种, zǎo yá zhǒng).
  • Habit: Semi-spreading (半开展), dense branching, short internodes.
  • Leaves: Elliptical, thin and soft, with pointed tip and slightly upward-curved edges. Leaf blade color — yellowish-green with pronounced gloss. Teeth along leaf edge are deep and sharp, lateral veins are clearly visible and densely arranged.
  • Shoot formation: High frequency of bud formation, dense arrangement of shoots. Minimal pubescence.
  • Growing period: About 8 months. Capable of flowering but rarely fruits.
  • Resistance: Wide adaptability, good resistance to diseases and pests, relatively high productivity.
  • Suitability: Optimally suited for oolong production; also suitable for making red tea (black tea) and green tea.

• Harvest: Huang Dan is the earliest-maturing of the four Anxi varieties. Spring budding begins in early to mid-March, and the first harvest falls in mid-April, ahead of ordinary varieties by 10 or more days, and Tieguanyin by almost 20 days. Thanks to this, Huangjin Gui often becomes the first oolong of the new season, earning the nickname “Qingming Tea” (清明茶). In addition to spring harvest, summer, autumn and sometimes winter (“winter slice,” 冬片, dōngpiàn) harvests are also conducted. Spring tea has the greatest value.

• Harvest standard: Harvested when the terminal shoot forms a dormant bud (驻芽, zhùyá), and the upper leaf is opened in “small opening” (小开面) or “medium opening” (中开面) position — pick the shoot with two to three leaves. Too tender picking gives low aroma and bitter taste; overripe — weak, coarse infusion. Optimal harvest time — from 14 to 16 hours, when moisture content in the leaf decreases and aromatic substances accumulate maximally.

• Raw material requirements: Shoots must be whole, uniform in maturity, without purple buds and leaves damaged by diseases or insects. Harvest is conducted in small batches, leaves are laid carefully, without compression, to preserve freshness and integrity.

4. Terroir and Cultivation Features:

• Region: Anxi County is located in the southeastern part of Fujian Province, in the Jīnjiǎng River (晋江) basin. The landscape represents a system of hills and low mountains interspersed with narrow valleys with streams — a typical environment for microterroir formation.
• Growing altitude: Main Huangjin Gui plantations are located at 400–800 m above sea level. The production core — Huqiu area — occupies heights of 400–600 m; individual plantations in Daping and Jiandou zones reach 700–800 m.
• Climate: Subtropical monsoon, with warm humid summers and mild winters. Average annual temperature 18–20°C, annual precipitation 1500–1800 mm. Abundance of fogs and diffused light promotes accumulation of aromatic substances in leaves and formation of characteristic “tou tian xiang.”
• Soils: Red and yellow soils (红壤, 黄壤), acidic (pH 4.5–6.5), rich in organic matter, with elevated content of microelements — selenium and zinc. The core zone Luoyan-Meizhuang is distinguished by particularly high selenium content in soil, which positively affects the antioxidant profile of the finished tea.

5. Production Technology:

The production technology of Huangjin Gui follows the general scheme of Southern Fujian oolongs, however the key principle is gentleness at each stage: “light withering, light shaking, preserve green” (轻晒轻摇保青). The thin leaves of Huang Dan, rich in essential oils, oxidize easily and require more delicate handling than Tieguanyin.

• Picking (采摘, cǎizhāi): Described in section 3.
• Sūn withering (晒青, shàiqīng): Picked leaves are spread in a thin layer under sunlight for a short time. Mass loss is 5–7% — significantly less than for Tieguanyin. Goal — gently start metabolic processes and begin forming the aromatic foundation.
• Indoor withering (凉青, liàngqīng): Leaf is transferred to a shaded ventilated room where it acquires plasticity and “rests” before the next stage.
• Shaking (摇青, yáoqīng): Cycles of careful shaking and rest trigger partial oxidation along leaf edges. For Huang Dan, lighter and less prolonged shaking is applied than for Tieguanyin — the goal is to preserve freshness (保水保青) and prevent excessive reddening of edges (减少红变). It is at this stage that the characteristic floral profile is formed.
• Kill-green / fixation (杀青 / 炒青, shāqīng / chǎoqīng): Quick heating at high temperature stops enzymatic processes and fixes the aroma direction. For Huangjin Gui, the principle “high temperature, short time” (高温短时) is applied.
• Rolling (揉捻, róuniǎn): Quick and light rolling (快速轻揉), forming the characteristic elongated “spindle-shaped” form of tea particles — unlike the tight semi-spherical twist of Tieguanyin.
• Primary drying (初烘, chūhōng): Initial stabilization at moderate temperature.
• Shaping by rolling (包揉, bāoróu): Repeated rolling in cloth to compact the form — conducted more gently than for Tieguanyin.
• Repeated drying and shaping (复烘, 复包揉): Alternating heating and rolling to achieve uniformity.
• Final drying (烘干, hōnggān): Low-temperature slow drying (低温慢烘), ensuring sublimation of aromatic compounds and formation of final “high aroma.” It is precisely the gentle drying regime — the key to revealing “tou tian xiang.”

The fundamental difference between Huangjin Gui technology and Tieguanyin technology can be summarized by the formula: “lightness at each stage — preserve water and green” (轻晒轻摇减少红变，保水保青锁鲜). Result — thin, loose tea particles with pronounced high aroma.

6. Organoleptic Characteristics:

• Dry leaf appearance: Tea particles are elongated-spindle-shaped (细长尖梭形), relatively loose and light in weight — noticeably less dense and heavy than Tieguanyin. Stems are thin and small. Color varies from yellow-green to golden-yellow with oily luster. In professional circles, the appearance is characterized by three words: “yellow, thin, fine” (黄、薄、细).
• Dry leaf aroma: Extremely high and powerful — even in dry form the aroma is felt brightly and distinctly. Osmanthus flower notes (桂花, guìhuā) predominate with nuances of gardenia (栀子花, zhīzihuā), ripe pear and water peach (水蜜桃). It is precisely this aroma that gave rise to the saying: “Smell the aroma — and immediately recognize Huang Dan” (一闻香气而知黄旦).
• Liquor aroma: Rich, high, long-lasting. Floral-fruity spectrum with dominant osmanthus, complemented by honey sweetness and light spicy shades. The gàiwǎn lid aroma (盖香, gàixiāng) is especially expressive — it literally “bursts” out at the first contact with hot water, demonstrating the “tou tian xiang” effect.
• Taste: Clean, refined, with pronounced freshness and liveliness (鲜爽, xiānshuǎng). Body is soft but not watery — rather “thin and silky” (醇细). Sweetness appears from the first steeps, transitioning into long and pronounced returning sweetness (回甘, huígān). The taste contains notes of osmanthus flowers, pear and honey. Astringency is minimal. Bitterness in properly brewed tea is practically absent.
• Liquor color: Golden-yellow (金黄色), bright, clear, with pronounced luster. With lighter brewing — light straw-colored.
• Spent leaves (wet leaves): Whole unfolded leaves, thin and elongated. Central zone — yellow-green, edges — with characteristic reddish (朱红色) border. Leaf is soft, elastic, with clearly visible main vein. Leaf edge with shallow teeth.

The totality of organoleptic merits of Huangjin Gui is traditionally described by the formula “yi zao er qi” (一早二奇) — “one early, two unusual”: “early” — this is early ripening, early harvest and early appearance on the market; “two unusual” — appearance “yellow, even, fine” (黄、匀、细) and internal quality “fragrant, unusual, fresh” (香、奇、鲜).

7. Chemical Composition:

Huangjin Gui is distinguished by high content of biologically active substances. According to laboratory analyses:

• Polyphenols (tea tannins): Total content of tea polyphenols — about 31.58% of dry mass. The main share consists of catechins (儿茶素), total content of which is about 129.31 mg/g. Catechins provide antioxidant potential and form light astringency of the infusion; at the same time, thanks to light oxidation in Huangjin Gui, non-oxidized forms predominate (EGCG, EGC, ECG).
• Amino acids: Total content — about 2782.91 mg/100 g. Among them, L-theanine (L-茶氨酸) plays a special role, providing mild sweetness, “silky” mouthfeel sensation and relaxing effect without drowsiness.
• Alkaloids: Caffeine (咖啡碱) — moderate content, characteristic of lightly oxidized oolongs (approximately 2–3% of dry mass). Theobromine and theophylline are also present in trace amounts.
• Essential oils: Essential oil content (醚浸出物) — about 2.09%. It is precisely essential oils that are responsible for the signature “tou tian xiang” — high persistent aroma with dominance of osmanthus, gardenia and pear. Genome studies of Huang Dan (Fujian Agricultural University, 2021) showed that high aromaticity is controlled by genes of the TPS family (terpene synthases), demonstrating expanded expression and structural variations unique to this cultivar.
• Water extract: Total extractability — about 40.58%, indicating richness and “fullness” of the infusion.
• Vitamins: Vitamin C, B vitamins.
• Minerals: Potassium, magnesium, manganese, fluorine, as well as selenium and zinc (especially in tea from the core Luoyan zone with selenium-enriched soils).

8. Health Properties:

• Antioxidant action: High content of catechins (particularly EGCG) provides effective free radical scavenging. According to several studies, the antioxidant activity of Huangjin Gui is comparable to or even exceeds indicators of other oolongs thanks to significant polyphenol concentration.
• Tonic effect: The combination of caffeine and L-theanine creates “gentle alertness” — increases concentration and cognitive functions without sharp spikes in nervous excitement.
• Digestive support: Polyphenols and catechins stimulate secretion of digestive enzymes, help fat breakdown. Traditionally Huangjin Gui is recommended as tea after abundant meals: in Chinese practice it has established properties of “xiao shi” (消食 — digestive aid) and “jie jiu” (解酒 — alcohol aftermath relief).
• Heat clearing and refreshing effect: In traditional Chinese medicine it belongs to beverages promoting “internal heat dispersion” (清热, qīngrè). Good thirst quencher in hot weather.
• Metabolism support: Oolongs in general and Huangjin Gui in particular promote normalization of lipid metabolism: studies indicate ability to lower cholesterol and neutral fat levels in blood.
• Anti-stress effect: L-theanine combined with pronounced floral aroma creates relaxing effect. The practice of mindful tea drinking (品茗, pǐnmíng) with Huangjin Gui is considered an effective method for reducing stress load.
• Skin care: Antioxidants (polyphenols, vitamin C) support skin elasticity, and SOD (superoxide dismutase) enzyme activity increases with regular oolong consumption, which favorably affects skin condition.

Note: the listed properties are based on traditional experience and preliminary scientific data. Tea is not a medicinal product.

9. Brewing:

• Water temperature: 95–100°C. Huangjin Gui, despite leaf thinness, reveals its full aromatic potential precisely at high temperature. Water below 90°C will not allow complete extraction of essential oils and demonstration of the “tou tian xiang” effect.

• Tea amount: 5–7 g per 100–125 ml water (gongfu style, 功夫泡). For Western brewing style — 3 g per 200–250 ml.

• Teaware: White porcelain gàiwǎn (白瓷盖碗, bái cí gàiwǎn) — ideal choice for Huangjin Gui, as porcelain does not absorb aroma and allows full appreciation of “gaixiang” (盖香) — lid aroma. Yíxīng clay teapot (紫砂壶, zǐshā hú) is also suitable — especially for more roasted versions.

• Process:

  1. Warm the teaware with boiling water, drain.
  2. Add tea to gaiwan, cover with lid, shake lightly — inhale the aroma of dry leaf heated by vessel walls.
  3. Pour boiling water, quickly rinse (润茶, rùnchá) for 5 seconds, drain.
  4. First–fourth steeps: infuse 10–15 seconds, drain immediately.
  5. Fifth and subsequent steeps: increase time by 5–10 seconds.
  6. Quality Huangjin Gui withstands 6–7 full steeps; even in late steeps the spent leaves retain residual aroma.

• Important recommendation: when first acquainting with Huangjin Gui, start precisely with hot “gaixiang”: bring the lid to your nose immediately after draining — this is how you experience “aroma penetrating heaven.”

10. Storage:

Huangjin Gui in “qingxiang” style (lightly oxidized, unroasted) is stored according to rules similar to green tea storage: airtight container, dryness, absence of foreign odors and direct light. Optimally — in refrigerator at 0–5°C, in separate compartment to exclude contact with other products.

For more roasted versions (medium or strong roasting), storage at room temperature in airtight opaque container, away from heat sources is acceptable. Roasted teas are more resistant to oxidation and maintain quality longer.

Main enemies of tea: moisture, heat, foreign odors and direct sunlight.

Fresh spring harvest Huangjin Gui is recommended to age about two weeks after processing before consumption — during this time the “fire” (火气, huǒqì) from roasting dissipates and aroma stabilizes.

11. Market and Price Range:

• Price category: Huangjin Gui belongs to medium and medium-high price segment among Anxi oolongs. Price depends on several factors: harvest season (spring more expensive than summer and autumn), origin region (tea from core Luoyan zone is valued higher), processing skill (handmade vs. machine), roasting degree and harvest year. Compared to Tieguanyin of similar grade, Huangjin Gui is generally somewhat more affordable, however particularly quality batches from Luoyan can cost quite comparably.

• Authenticity Identification:

  • Buy from verified sellers with transparent information about tea origin — ideally with specific township and harvest season indicated.
  • Pay attention to weight: genuine Huangjin Gui is noticeably lighter than Tieguanyin with same volume — tea particles are loose and “airy,” not dense and heavy.
  • Evaluate aroma: dry leaf should possess powerful, clean, natural floral aroma (osmanthus, gardenia, pear) — without chemical “perfumery” or sharp artificial notes.
  • Check infusion: color should be clean golden-yellow, clear; muddy or dull infusion indicates low quality.
  • Be suspicious of too low price: if price is clearly below market rate for Anxi oolongs, most likely the tea is not produced from Huang Dan cultivar or harvested from flatland plantations.

12. Recommended Sources:

• Huangjin Gui possesses such intense aroma that in Anxi they composed a saying about it: “Haven’t yet tasted heavenly flavor — already inhaled aroma penetrating heaven” (未尝天真味，先闻透天香).
• The Huang Dan cultivar became the “golden father” of a whole galaxy of modern highly aromatic varieties: Huang Guanyin (105), Jin Guanyin / Mingke-1 (204), Jin Mudan (220), Huang Meigui (506), Huáng Qí (黄奇), Ruì Xiāng (瑞香), Zǐ Méiguī (紫玫瑰) and Chungui (春闺). All these cultivars inherited characteristic high aromaticity from Huang Dan.
• The original tea tree, planted according to legend by Wang Dan at her husband’s house, by 1967 reached a height of more than 2 meters with trunk diameter of about 9 cm and crown of 1.6 m. Unfortunately, the tree died due to transplantation related to house construction.
• In the 1940s, tea house “Jintai” (金泰茶庄) conducted active trade of Huangjin Gui through Zhangzhou to Hong Kong and Singapore. During the export boom period, this tea was so sought after among Southern Chinese communities of Southeast Asia that merchants jokingly said: “It’s more expensive than gold” — playing on the literal meaning of the name.
• In 2018, Huang Dan passed state registration of new agricultural crop varieties (GPD 茶树（2018）350003), and in 2021 a research group from Fujian Agricultural University first completely sequenced its genome, establishing that genome size is 2.94 Gb, and terpene synthase family genes play a key role in forming the highly aromatic profile.

In conclusion:

Huangjin Gui is an oolong revelation, a tea with character that cannot be confused with any other. Its main virtue is aroma: high, clean, floral, literally filling all space from cup to ceiling. In this it does not compete with Tieguanyin, but occupies its own niche: if Tieguanyin is depth and complexity, then Huangjin Gui is height and transparency.

This tea is ideally suited both for introduction to the world of oolongs (thanks to understandable, bright and welcoming flavor profile) and for experienced connoisseurs seeking aroma in its purest and most elevated manifestation. Spring Huangjin Gui from Luoyan is one of the first joys of the new tea season: early, aromatic, sunny, like its very name — “Golden Osmanthus.”

13. Comparison with other Anxi oolongs:

• Tiě Guānyīn (铁观音, Tiěguānyīn): The most famous Anxi oolong. Uses the Tie Guanyin cultivar — large-leafed, late-ripening. Tea leaves are dense, heavy semi-spheres of dark green color. Aroma is orchid-like, deep, multi-layered. Taste is buttery, thick, with a mineral base and long aftertaste. Huang Jin Gui in contrast is light, airy, with a higher and more “piercing” aroma, but less dense body.
• Běn Shān (本山, Běnshān): A cultivar that externally resembles Tie Guanyin, but the leaves are thinner, and the stems are thinner and less dense. The aroma is softer and more delicate than Tie Guanyin, the taste is lighter, with grassy notes. Compared to Huang Jin Gui, Ben Shan has a less pronounced floral “punch” and a more even, calm profile.
• Máo Xié (毛蟹, Máoxiè): Named for the fine hairs on the shoots, resembling crab fuzz. Distinguished by a jasmine tint in the aroma and a slightly astringent, tart character. Tea leaves are smaller than Tie Guanyin, but denser than Huang Jin Gui. Huang Jin Gui wins in height and purity of aroma, but yields to Mao Xie in “body” and density of infusion.
• Huáng Guānyīn (黄观音, Huáng Guānyīn): A hybrid of Tie Guanyin × Huang Dan, inheriting the high aromatics of the father and the body density of the mother. In aroma it is close to Huang Jin Gui, but the body is fuller and more rounded. Used both in the style of Mǐnnán oolongs and for producing yán chá (岩茶) in Wuyi Mountains.

In conclusion:

Huang Jin Gui is a revelatory oolong, a tea with character that cannot be confused with any other. Its main virtue is aroma: high, pure, floral, literally filling all the space from cup to ceiling. In this it does not compete with Tie Guanyin, but occupies its own niche: if Tie Guanyin is depth and complexity, then Huang Jin Gui is height and transparency.

This tea is ideally suited both for introduction to the world of oolongs (thanks to its clear, bright and welcoming flavor profile), and for experienced connoisseurs who seek aroma in its purest and most elevated manifestation. Spring Huang Jin Gui from Luoyan is one of the first joys of the new tea season: early, aromatic, sunny, like its very name — “Golden Osmanthus.”