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Jīntán què shé

Jīntán què shé · 金坛雀舌

Jīntán Quèshé (金坛雀舌, Jīntán què shé) is a famous green tea from Jintan District, Changzhou City, Jiangsu Province, whose name "Sparrow's Tongue from Jintan" precisely describes its form: miniature flat tea leaves, slender and pointed, resembling tiny bird tongues.

Jīntán Quèshé (金坛雀舌, Jīntán què shé) is a famous green tea from Jintan District, Changzhou City, Jiangsu Province, whose name “Sparrow’s Tongue from Jintan” precisely describes its form: miniature flat tea leaves, slender and pointed, resembling tiny bird tongues. The name “雀舌” (què shé, “sparrow’s tongue”) was first recorded in the 11th century by scholar Shěn Kuò (沈括, Shěn Kuò) in his famous work “Mengxi Bitan” (梦溪笔谈, “Dream Pool Essays”). The tea is produced on the eastern slopes of the sacred Daoist mountain Máoshān (茅山, Máoshān) — one of the most important centers of Daoism in China.

1. Classification and Origin:

  • Type: Green tea (non-oxidized). Belongs to flat pan-fired green teas (扁形炒青绿茶, biǎnxíng chǎoqīng lǜchá).

  • Category: National Geographical Indication Product (中国国家地理标志产品, 2012) — the first tea product from Changzhou City to receive this protection. In 1986, it received the title “Famous Tea of National Level” from the Ministry of Commerce of the PRC (商业部”全国名茶”).

  • Origin: China, Jiāngsū Province (江苏, Jiāngsū), Chángzhōu City (常州市, Chángzhōu Shì), Jīntán District (金坛区, Jīntán Qū). The geographical indication zone covers the townships of Xuebu (薛埠镇), Zhiqian (指前镇), Zhulin (朱林镇), and Zhixi (直溪镇).

  • Terroir core: Fanglu Tea Farm (方麓茶场) and ancient tea gardens on the eastern slope of Máoshān (茅山东麓), area — approximately 6,000 mu (400 hectares). Highest quality — from gardens in the Maoshan Tourist Area zone.

  • Geographic coordinates: Approximately 31°33′ North latitude, 119°32′ East longitude.

2. History and Cultural Significance:

  • History: Tea cultivation in Jintan District is documented from the Sui era (581–618): even then, local tea was included in the list of regional delicacies. During the Northern Song era (960–1127), scholar-encyclopedist Shěn Kuò (沈括, 1031–1095) in “Dream Pool Essays” (梦溪笔谈, Mèngxī Bǐtán) recorded the name “雀舌” (què shé, “sparrow’s tongue”) — this is one of the first mentions of this tea term in written sources.

    The industrial history of Jintan Queshe begins in 1905, when the company “Maolu Minnong Shui” (茅麓明农树艺公司, “Maolu Company of Enlightened Agriculture and Arboriculture”) was founded, beginning systematic tea cultivation on the slopes of Maoshan. In 1919, entrepreneur Jì Zhèngāng (纪振纲, Jì Zhèngāng) expanded production, creating the agricultural enterprise “Maolu Nonglinchang” (茅麓农林场).

    In 1982, the Multi-Industry Management Bureau of Jīntán County (金坛县多管局) initiated a scientific project to create a new type of flat green tea based on local raw materials and historical traditions. In 1985, the tea was officially named “Jintan Queshe” and passed provincial certification. In 1986 — the title “Famous Tea” from the Ministry of Commerce. In 2012 — geographical indication protection.

  • Name:

    • “Jintan” (金坛) — “Golden Altar”: the name of the district, connected to the Daoist tradition of Maoshan.
    • “Que” (雀) — “sparrow”: indicates the miniature size of the tea leaf.
    • “She” (舌) — “tongue”: describes the flat, slightly pointed shape, resembling a bird’s tongue.
  • Cultural significance: Jintan Queshe is one of the few teas connected to the Daoist mountain Maoshan — center of the Shàngqīng school (上清派, Shàngqīng Pài), one of the most influential Daoist traditions. Maoshan is the “spiritual capital” of Daoism in southern Jiangsu, and tea from its slopes possesses a symbolic “Daoist” aura of purity and longevity.

3. Botanical Description and Raw Material:

  • Variety / Cultivar: Several medium-leaf and small-leaf cultivars of Camellia sinensis var. sinensis are used for production:

    • Longjing 43 (龙井43) — early clonal variety with even, slender leaves.
    • Qímén Zhǔyèzhǒng (祁门槠叶种) — medium-leaf variety from southern Anhui.
    • Jiukengzhong (鸠坑种) — traditional Zhejiang cultivar.
    • Zhenong 113 (浙农113) — high-yielding variety. All cultivars are bush-form, with fleshy buds, medium leaf size, minimal down, and high amino acid content.
  • Picking: Early spring picking. For the highest grade (特级) — exclusively whole buds (全单芽, quán dān yá). For producing 500 g of the highest grade, 40,000–45,000 buds are required. For first grade — one bud with one barely opened leaf. For second grade — one bud with one leaf.

  • Raw material requirements: Tender, fleshy buds of uniform size, without damage. Processing — on the day of picking.

4. Terroir and Cultivation:

  • Topography: Eastern slope of Maoshan — hilly zone with gentle slopes, ideally suited for tea gardens.

  • Growing altitude: 300–800 meters above sea level.

  • Climate: North subtropical monsoon. Average annual temperature — 15.3°C, annual precipitation — ≥1,600 mm. Average annual number of foggy days — 120. Abundance of diffused light (漫射光) promotes accumulation of amino acids and aromatic compounds.

  • Soils: Yellow-brown soils (黄棕壤) with pH 4.5–6.0, deep profile (≥1 m), organic matter content ≥1.5%, rich in minerals. Industrial pollution is absent. Forest coverage — over 30%. Numerous reservoirs and ponds ensure stable humidity.

5. Production Technology:

The technology of Jintan Queshe combines machine and manual techniques, with a key manual shaping stage.

  • Leaf spreading and withering (鲜叶摊放 — xiānyè tānfàng): 4–7 hours of spreading to remove excess moisture and begin aromatic processes.

  • Kill-green (杀青 — shāqīng): In a rolling drum (滚筒) at 100–120°C — gentle fixation preserving the tenderness of the raw material.

  • Cooling (摊凉 — tānliáng): Intermediate cooling.

  • Shaping (整形 — zhěngxíng): Key stage. The master uses techniques of “搭” (dā, “laying”), “压” (yā, “pressing”), and “抓” (zhuā, “grasping”), forming flat “sparrow tongues.” The wok temperature varies according to the scheme “high — low — high” (高—低—高), ensuring optimal balance of shape and aroma.

  • Final drying (干燥/辉干 — gānzào / huīgān): At 70–80°C — gentle drying to moisture content ≤6%. Fixing the chestnut aroma.

6. Organoleptic Characteristics:

  • Dry leaf appearance: Flat, slender, pointed tea leaves (扁平挺秀, biǎnpíng tǐngxiù), in form — classic “sparrow tongues” (状如雀舌): tip — pointed, “like a bird’s beak.” Color — bright green with oily luster (绿润). Light subdued down (显毫). In highest grades — golden down appears (金毫隐现).

  • Dry leaf aroma: Clean, high, persistent (清高). Chestnut note dominates (栗香明显持久, lì xiāng míngxiǎn chíjiǔ) — rich and lasting. Clean green freshness. In some batches — light floral overtone (花香), due to peculiarities of light oxidation during shaping.

  • Liquor aroma: Chestnut, persistent, with clean green base. Unfolds gradually.

  • Taste: Fresh and brisk (鲜爽, xiānshuǎng) — high amino acid content provides bright “umami” note. Sweet (甘, gān). Dense and full-bodied (醇厚, chúnhòu). Pronounced returning sweetness (回甘持久, huígān chíjiǔ). Astringency is minimal.

  • Liquor color: Bright, clear (明亮), yellow-green.

  • Spent leaves: Tender, uniform shoots, gathered in “buds” (嫩匀成朵). Color — light green, lively.

7. Chemical Composition:

  • Polyphenols (catechins): Content ≥25% — above average for flat green teas. Provides powerful antioxidant potential.

  • Amino acids (including L-theanine): Content significantly above average for green teas — result of abundant diffused light (120 foggy days) and fertile soils with organic content ≥1.5%.

  • Alkaloids: Caffeine — content above average (according to research, significantly higher than ordinary green teas). Theobromine, theophylline.

  • Theaflavins (茶黄素): Present in noticeable quantities — contribute to lipid profile regulation.

  • Minerals: High manganese content (锰, měng) — promotes bone tissue strengthening. Potassium, magnesium, zinc, fluorine.

  • Vitamins: Vitamin C, B-group vitamins.

8. Health Properties:

  • Antioxidant action: Polyphenols (≥25%) effectively neutralize free radicals.

  • Cholesterol control: Theaflavins regulate blood lipid levels.

  • Bone tissue strengthening: High manganese content promotes maintenance of bone density.

  • Antibacterial action: Catechins suppress pathogenic bacteria in the oral cavity and intestines.

  • Tonic effect: Caffeine and L-theanine provide gentle alertness.

  • Important: the listed properties are based on publicly available data and are not medical recommendations.

9. Brewing:

  • Water temperature: 80°C (boiled water, cooled).

  • Tea quantity: 3 g per 150–180 ml water (ratio 1:50–1:60).

  • Teaware: Glass cup or white porcelain gaiwan.

  • Process:

    1. Warm the teaware, drain.
    2. Add 3 g of tea.
    3. Pour water to 1/3 volume, “moisten” tea for 30 seconds.
    4. Add water to 7/10 volume.
    5. Steep for 1–2 minutes.
    6. Drink when 1/3 remains in cup — add more water. Tea withstands 3 full brewings.
  • Note: freshly purchased tea is recommended to rest ~2 weeks for “fire taste to dissipate.” Avoid prolonged steeping — tannins increase bitterness.

10. Storage:

  • Store in airtight container, in dark and cool place.
  • Optimally — refrigerator at 0–5°C.
  • Storage period — up to 12 months.
  • After opening — consume within 1–2 months.

11. Price and Counterfeits:

Jintan Queshe is a tea with high price differentiation. Highest grade (特级) from whole buds — from 1,000 yuan per jin (500 g) and higher. First and second grades — significantly more affordable.

  • How to avoid counterfeits:

    • Buy from verified sellers with geographical indication marking from Jintan District.
    • Evaluate shape: characteristic “sparrow tongues” — flat, slender, pointed. Round or uneven tea leaves — different type of tea.
    • Evaluate aroma: persistent chestnut tone — signature mark. Absence of chestnut note — reason for doubt.
    • Check liquor: bright, clear. Cloudy — sign of counterfeit.
    • Pay attention to price: suspiciously low price — sign of counterfeit.

12. Interesting Facts:

  • The name “雀舌” (què shé, “sparrow’s tongue”) is one of the most poetic among tea terms. It was recorded by Shen Kuo in “Mengxi Bitan” (11th century) — one of the greatest scientific works of medieval China, containing observations on astronomy, mathematics, pharmacology, and botany.

  • Maoshan is one of three “sacred peaks” of Daoism in southern Jiangsu, center of the Shangqing school. Tea from its slopes is not just a beverage, but part of Daoist culture of “nourishing life” (养生, yǎngshēng).

  • For producing 500 g of the highest grade, 40,000–45,000 whole buds are required — each picked by hand and selected by size.

  • In 1905, the company “Maolu Minnong Shui” became one of the first modern tea-growing enterprises in China — long before mass modernization of the industry.

  • Jintan Queshe became the first tea product from Changzhou City to receive national geographical indication protection (2012) — symbol of recognition of Maoshan terroir at the state level.

13. Comparison with Other “Queshe” Type Teas:

  • Méngdǐng Gānlù (蒙顶甘露): From Sichuan. Twisted (not flat) leaf with floral-orchid aroma. Ganlu is more “dewy” and sweet; Jintan is more chestnut and structured.

  • Pújiāng Quèshé (蒲江雀舌): From Sichuan. Also “sparrow’s tongue,” but from different terroir. Pujiang is softer; Jintan is richer in polyphenols, with more persistent chestnut aroma.

  • West Lake Lóngjǐng (西湖龙井): Flat tea with bean-chestnut aroma. Longjing is more “oily” and broader in shape; Jintan Queshe is more miniature and pointed, with “cleaner” chestnut note.

  • Níngqiáng Quèshé (宁强雀舌): From Shaanxi. Also “sparrow’s tongue,” but from mountainous northwestern terroir. Ningqiang is lighter; Jintan is more full-bodied.

In conclusion:

Jintan Queshe is a tea in which the thousand-year-old Daoist sanctuary of Maoshan, the poetic image of “sparrow’s tongue” from a medieval treatise, and modern tea-making mastery unite in a miniature flat tea leaf with perfect form. Its persistent chestnut aroma, fresh sweet taste, and slender silhouette — all this is a gift from the eastern slopes of Maoshan, where mists stand 120 days a year, and soils preserve the mineral wealth of millennia. This is tea for those who value restrained elegance: not the fruity brightness of Biluochun and not the bean power of Longjing, but quiet, confident chestnut sweetness — like morning light on a mountain slope, where Daoist hermits once sought immortality.