Jiǔqū Hóng Méi

Jiuqu Hong Mei is the only red tea (black tea) among the twenty-eight famous teas of Zhejiang Province, earning the poetic nickname “one red dot in a sea of green” (万绿丛中一点红). This gongfu red tea with nearly two centuries of history was born at the intersection of Fujian’s red tea tradition and the unique terroir of Hangzhou’s western suburbs. Its finest tea leaves, curved like fishing hooks, ruby-colored liquor, and aroma reminiscent of red plum (meihua) blossoms have made it a calling card of West Lake tea culture alongside the great Longjing.

1. Classification and Origin:

• Type: Chinese red tea (black tea) (红茶, hóngchá), fully oxidized (fermented).
• Category: Gōngfū red tea (工夫红茶, gōngfū hóngchá) — traditional red tea of masterful processing. Listed among China’s historical famous teas (历史名茶). The only red tea among Hangzhou’s ten famous teas “nine green, one red” (九绿一红).
• Origin: China, Zhèjiāng Province (浙江省, Zhèjiāng shěng), Hángzhōu City (杭州市, Hángzhōu shì), West Lake District (西湖区, Xīhú qū), Shuāngpǔ Town (双浦镇, Shuāngpǔ zhèn). Main production villages: Hubu (湖埠), Shuanglin (双灵), Zhangyu (张余), Fengjia (冯家), Lingshan (灵山), Shejing (社井), Renqiao (仁桥), Shangyang (上阳), Xiayang (下阳). Tea from Dawuxin Mountain (大坞山) in Hubu village is traditionally considered the highest quality.
• Geographic coordinates: approximately 30°10′ North latitude, 120°05′ East longitude (Shuangpu area, southwestern suburb of Hangzhou, banks of Qiantang River).

2. History and Cultural Significance:

• History: Jiǔqū Hóng Méi was created during the reign of Emperor Tóngzhì of the Qīng dynasty (清同治年间, 1862–1874), meaning its production history spans approximately one hundred fifty to two hundred years. The tea’s emergence is linked to the Tàipíng Rebellion (太平天国, 1850–1864): when military actions engulfed the Wuyi Mountains area in Fujian Province, thirteen families of tea-growing peasants fled north and settled in the Dawuxin basin — present-day Shuangpu Town. They cleared mountain slopes, planted tea bushes, and drawing on their experience producing red tea, began crafting a new product from local raw materials. Gradually the technology adapted to the terroir, and thus was born the unique red tea — Jiuqu Hong Mei.

  The tea quickly gained recognition. In 1886 it received a gold award at the Panama International Food Exhibition. In 1915 — gold at the Panama-Pacific International Exposition (巴拿马万国博览会). In 1926 — an award at the Philadelphia World’s Fair. In 1928 — a special prize at the Chinese National Products Exhibition in Shanghai, where the “tea saint” of the New Era Wú Juénóng (吴觉农, Wú Juénóng) wrote in his expert assessment: “Hangzhou red tea is excellent in color, aroma and taste, it’s only a pity that the price is too high.” In 1929 the tea won a special prize at the first West Lake Expo (首届西湖博览会) and was included among China’s ten famous teas of that period.

  After the Japanese occupation of Hangzhou in 1937, production declined. Tea gardens were abandoned, and by the founding of the PRC the region was in a state of deep crisis. In the 1950s-60s gradual restoration began: peasants organized cooperatives, introduced new varieties and mechanization. However, in the 1990s, amid the booming commercial success of West Lake Longjing, local authorities implemented a policy of “switching from red to green” (以红改绿), and Jiuqu Hong Mei found itself on the brink of extinction. Revival began in the 2000s: in 2000 the trademark was registered, in 2003 it received certification as a “green product of Zhejiang,” and in 2006 and 2009 the production technique was included in the registries of intangible cultural heritage of Hangzhou and Zhejiang Province respectively. In 2016 Jiuqu Hong Mei was served as the official tea at the G20 summit in Hangzhou, and later at the third and fourth World Internet Conferences in Wuzhen (2016, 2017).

• Name: The name consists of three semantic components. “Jiuqu” (九曲) — “nine bends” — refers simultaneously to the famous Jiǔqū Stream (九曲溪) in the Wuyi Mountains, from where the tea’s founders came, and to the winding local creek of “nine turns and eighteen bends” (九曲十八弯) in the Dawuxin area. “Hong” (红) — “red” — indicates the tea type. “Mei” (梅) — “plum blossom” — relates to the characteristic aroma reminiscent of red plum blossoms. The tea is also known by the historical names Jiǔqū Hóng (九曲红), Jiǔqū Wūlóng (九曲乌龙) and Lóngjǐng Hóng (龙井红).

• Cultural significance: The famous Buddhist monk and calligrapher Hóngyī (弘一法师, Hóngyī fǎshī), better known as Lì Shutong (李叔同), praised this tea in verse: “In a white jade cup — agate color, on red lips and under the tongue — the fragrance of plum blossoms” (白玉杯中玛瑙色，红唇舌底梅花香). Jiuqu Hong Mei together with West Lake Longjing forms the legendary pair “one red, one green” (一红一绿) of West Lake tea culture, symbolizing the completeness and balance of Hangzhou’s tea tradition.

3. Botanical Description and Raw Material:

• Variety / Cultivar: Primarily uses the local population variety (群体种, qúntǐ zhǒng) Camellia sinensis var. sinensis — the same population of bushes that serves as raw material for West Lake Longjing. This is a small-leaf and medium-leaf shrub type (灌木型中小叶种), upright, with medium branching density. Leaves are long-elliptical, buds and young leaves are yellow-green in color, abundantly pubescent. Weight of one hundred buds with three leaves — about 71 g. The plant is distinguished by high frost resistance and vigorous shoot growth.
• Harvest: The optimal harvest period is around the Gǔyǔ season (谷雨, “Grain Rains,” usually April 20), which is somewhat later than for Longjing. Interestingly, unlike most teas, for Jiuqu Hong Mei excessively early, pre-Qingming harvest is not considered best — optimal leaf maturity occurs precisely around Guyu.
• Harvest standard: One bud and two leaves in the initial opening stage (一芽二叶初展, yī yá èr yè chū zhǎn). The leaf should be neither excessively tender nor coarse — precisely this degree of maturity ensures the characteristic balance of aroma and body.
• Raw material requirements: Whole, clean leaf without damage and coarse stems. Minimal delay is permitted between harvest and the start of processing. For the finest batches, shoots from old tea trees over one hundred years old are selected.

4. Terroir and Cultivation:

• Relief and landscape: The production area is located in the Dawuxin basin (大坞盆地), surrounded by low mountains. The terrain of “nine turns and eighteen bends” creates numerous microclimatic niches. From the east the territory is bounded by the Qiantang River (钱塘江), whose evaporation forms constant cloudiness and mist during morning and evening hours.
• Growing altitude: from 100 to 500 m above sea level. The best plantations are located on the slopes of Dawuxin Mountain.
• Average annual temperature: about 16–17°C. The climate is subtropical monsoon, with mild winters and warm humid summers.
• Precipitation: about 1400–1500 mm per year, with high relative humidity.
• Soils: Sandy acidic soils (沙质土壤, pH 4.5–5.5), fertile, well-drained. The surrounding mountains are covered with dense forest, which protects the tea gardens from winds and provides diffused lighting.
• Ecology: In 2008 Shuanglin village, part of the production zone, received the status of “Jiangnan Ecological Tea Village” (江南生态茶村), confirming the exceptional quality of the natural environment.

5. Production Technology:

Jiuqu Hong Mei is produced using classic gongfu red tea technology, including four main stages. The distinctive feature is achieving the characteristic finest, curved form of tea leaves, which requires special rolling mastery and careful fermentation control.

• Withering (萎凋, wěidiāo): Freshly picked leaves are spread in a thin layer on bamboo trays. During withering the leaf evenly loses moisture, cell walls soften, turgor pressure decreases. The sharp grassy smell disappears, and the leaf acquires the elasticity necessary for subsequent rolling without destruction. Duration depends on air temperature and humidity.

• Rolling (揉捻, róuniǎn): Withered leaves undergo mechanical rolling, destroying cellular structure and bringing cell sap to the surface. It is at this stage that Jiuqu Hong Mei’s famous “fishing hook” form is created: finest, twisted tea leaves resembling silver hooks, capable of interlocking with each other in rings. Rolling also ensures even distribution of enzymes for subsequent oxidation. Between rollings, “untangling clumps” (搓散, cuōsàn) is performed — separating stuck leaves.

• Fermentation/Oxidation (发酵, fājiào): The key stage determining the color, taste and aroma of red tea. Rolled leaves are placed under suitable temperature conditions (usually 25–30°C) and humidity. Under the action of polyphenol oxidase, catechins oxidize, transforming into theaflavins and thearubigins. The leaf gradually changes color from green to golden-yellow and red-brown, developing a pronounced floral-fruity aroma. Traditional methods used natural fermentation; modern farms employ automated chambers with temperature and humidity control.

• Drying (干燥, gānzào): Conducted in two stages. First — “initial fire” (毛火, máo huǒ): rapid drying at elevated temperature to inactivate enzymes and stop oxidation. Second — “sufficient fire” (足火, zú huǒ): slow drying at reduced temperature for final moisture removal and aroma development. It is during the “sufficient fire” stage that the characteristic note resembling light pine resin aroma and honey sweetness is formed.

• Sorting (分级, fēnjí): Finished tea is sifted and separated by fractions. Even, uniform batches with a high proportion of golden tips are selected.

6. Organoleptic Characteristics:

• Dry leaf appearance: Jiuqu Hong Mei’s calling card is its unique form. Tea leaves are finest, hair-like, tightly twisted into elegant curves resembling fishing hooks or silver cufflinks; when grasped by hand they interlock with each other, forming ring-shaped “clusters.” Color is dark, oily-black with natural luster (乌润), abundantly covered with golden down (金毫).
• Dry leaf aroma: Rich, multi-layered: pronounced notes of honey and caramel, behind which emerges a floral shade reminiscent of red plum (meihua) blossom fragrance. Higher grades have a delicate orchid note (兰花香) and a light, barely perceptible smoky shade of pine resin.
• Liquor aroma: High and persistent, combining honey sweetness, red plum florals and nuances of ripe fruits. The aroma unfolds in several waves: first steeps — bright floral note; middle — warm honey-caramel; final — soft woody-sweet.
• Taste: Dense and rich, with pronounced natural sweetness and “velvety” texture. The taste reveals notes of ripe honey, red fruits and caramel. Astringency is mild and pleasant, quickly transitioning to prolonged sweet aftertaste (回甘, huígān). The finest batches demonstrate the characteristic “longan flavor” (桂圆汤味) — rounded sweetness reminiscent of longan.
• Liquor color: Bright red, sparkling, transparent and clear, with a characteristic golden rim around the cup’s edge (金圈, jīnquān) — a sign of high theaflavin content and quality indicator.
• Spent leaves (wet leaves): Red-bright, evenly colored, leaves tender, whole, opening in the form of small “flowers” (红艳成朵). In the finest grades — soft, elastic, with noticeable luster.

7. Chemical Composition:

• Polyphenols: Tea polyphenol content in raw material — about 25.6% (calculated on dry matter). During full fermentation, a significant portion of catechins transforms into theaflavins (茶黄素, cháhuángsù) and thearubigins (茶红素, cháhóngsù), which form the red color of the liquor, “velvety” taste and golden rim. The ratio of theaflavins to thearubigins is a key quality indicator: the higher the proportion of theaflavins, the brighter and more “lively” the liquor. Total content of polyphenol oxidation products — 5–15% of dry mass.
• Amino acids: Total content — about 3.5%, which is relatively high for red tea. L-theanine (L-茶氨酸) provides natural sweetness, taste softness and “freshness” (鲜爽感). High amino acid content is related to quality raw material from the Longjing population variety bushes.
• Alkaloids: Caffeine (咖啡碱) — 2–4% of dry mass, providing tonic effect. Theobromine and theophylline are present in smaller quantities, complementing the mild stimulating action.
• Catechins: Total catechin content in original raw material — about 11.3%. After fermentation a substantial portion transforms, but residual catechins retain antioxidant potential.
• Volatile aromatic compounds: Key aroma components — linalool (芳樟醇, fāngzhāngchún), geraniol (香叶醇, xiāngyèchún), benzaldehyde, phenylacetaldehyde and methyl salicylate. Their combination creates the characteristic “meihua-honey” aromatic profile.
• Vitamins: Vitamins C (partially destroyed during fermentation), B₁, B₂, P (rutin), PP (nicotinic acid).
• Minerals: Potassium, magnesium, calcium, manganese, zinc, fluorine, selenium.

8. Health Properties:

• Tonic and cognitive effect: The combination of caffeine and L-theanine provides mild, sustained alertness without sharp excitement peaks, improves attention concentration and reaction speed.
• Antioxidant protection: Theaflavins, thearubigins and residual catechins neutralize free radicals, reducing cellular oxidative stress.
• Digestive support: Tea polyphenols and organic acids gently stimulate gastric juice secretion and GI motility, facilitate digestion of fatty foods. Warm red tea is comfortable for the stomach.
• Cardiovascular support: According to research, regular moderate consumption of red tea may contribute to lowering LDL cholesterol levels and improving vascular elasticity.
• Antibacterial action: Polyphenols suppress the growth of various pathogenic bacteria, contributing to immune support and oral health.
• Warming effect: Red tea is traditionally considered “warm” in nature (性温) in Chinese dietology and is recommended for people with “cold” constitution, in autumn-winter periods and for strength recovery.
• Emotional well-being: L-theanine has mild anxiolytic action, and the warm sweetish meihua aroma provides relaxing sensory effects.

9. Brewing:

• Water temperature: 90–95°C. For particularly delicate spring batches with high tip content, can be reduced to 85–90°C.
• Tea quantity: 4–5 g per 100–120 ml (gongfu method); 2–3 g per 200–250 ml (cup steeping or European method).
• Teaware: White porcelain gàiwǎn (盖碗) of 100–120 ml volume — ideal for revealing aroma and observing liquor color. Porcelain teapot also suitable. Transparent glass cup allows admiring the “dance” of finest tea leaves. For mature dense batches, Yixing teapot of purple clay is acceptable.
• Process:
  1. Warm the gaiwan or teapot with boiling water, drain.
  2. Add tea, gently shake the vessel so heat reveals the dry leaf aroma — inhale and evaluate.
  3. Rinse (润茶): optionally — quick 1–2 second pour to “awaken” the leaves.
  4. First steep: pour water, steep 5–8 seconds, pour into fairness cup (公道杯).
  5. Subsequent steeps: increase time by 3–5 seconds with each steep.
  6. Number of steeps: 6–8 full brews for quality tea; finest batches withstand up to 10.
  7. European method: 2–3 g per 200 ml cup, steep 3–4 minutes.

10. Storage:

Jiuqu Hong Mei is a fully fermented tea, which ensures good storage stability, but requires observing basic rules. Tea should be stored in airtight containers (aluminum bag inside tin or pewter canister), protected from light, moisture and foreign odors. Optimal temperature — 10–25°C; refrigerator storage is not required and not recommended. Storage period under proper conditions — 18–24 months; during this period tea retains freshness and aroma brightness. Some dense batches with high roasting degree improve with “aging” up to 2–3 years: aroma becomes deeper, taste rounder. After opening packaging, recommended to use tea within 2–3 months.

11. Market and Price Range:

The price range for Jiuqu Hong Mei is quite wide. Approximate cost on the domestic Chinese market: special grade (特级) — from 700 yuan per 500 g, first grade (一级) — about 400 yuan, second grade (二级) — about 250 yuan. Price is influenced by: terroir (tea from Dawuxin Mountain is valued higher), season and harvest standard (tip proportion), hand work or mechanical processing, tea bush age (ancient trees — premium segment), award status and brand affiliation.

• How to avoid counterfeits:
  1. Purchase from verified suppliers with confirmed origin from Shuangpu, West Lake area.
  2. Evaluate form: authentic Jiuqu Hong Mei has a unique finest “hook-like” form, tea leaves when grasped interlock with each other — this is difficult to imitate.
  3. Aroma should be clean, noble, with meihua and honey notes, without chemical harshness or mustiness.
  4. Liquor — bright red, transparent, with pronounced golden rim; murky or dull liquor indicates low quality.
  5. Suspiciously low price for “award-winning” or “special” grade — sure sign of substitution.

12. Authenticity Identification:

• Jiuqu Hong Mei is one of the few red teas whose raw material comes from the same bushes that produce the famous green West Lake Longjing. Thus, “one red, one green” (一红一绿) are literally two teas from one plantation, but with diametrically opposite processing technology.

• In the local folklore tradition of the Lingshan area exists a beautiful legend: a boy named Alung (阿龙, “Little Dragon”) accidentally swallowed a magic pearl and transformed into a black dragon (乌龙). Unable to part with his parents, he looked back at every turn while swimming down the stream — thus formed the winding creek of “nine turns.” Later, red tea produced on its banks received the name “Jiuqu Wulong,” and then — “Jiuqu Hong Mei” — for its aroma resembling plum blossoms.

• At the G20 summit in Hangzhou (2016) and at the third and fourth World Internet Conferences in Wuzhen, this tea was chosen as the official protocol beverage, representing Hangzhou red tea to world leaders.

• The production technique of Jiuqu Hong Mei is included in the registry of intangible cultural heritage of Zhejiang Province (2009), emphasizing its value as a living craft tradition.

• The famous Buddhist master and enlightener Hongyi (Li Shutong, 1880–1942), one of the brightest cultural figures of early republican China, left a poetic couplet dedicated to this tea that became its “calling card.”

13. Recommended Sources:

• Zhèngshān Xiǎozhǒng (正山小种, Zhèngshān Xiǎozhǒng): Red tea from Wuyi Mountains, Fujian — the ancestral tradition that gave birth to Jiuqu Hong Mei. Xiaozhong, especially the smoked variant, is distinguished by pronounced smoky pine aroma (松烟香) and denser, oilier body. Jiuqu Hong Mei is a significantly more elegant and “perfumed” tea: its aroma is more delicate, body lighter, and leaf form unique.

• Qí Hóng (祁红, Qí Hóng) — Qimen Red Tea: Famous red tea from Anhui. Qi Hong is renowned for the “Qimen aroma” (祁门香) — orchid-fruity, with rose notes. Compared to Jiuqu Hong Mei, its leaf form is more standard (thin, even strips), taste — softer and less “honey-like.” Jiuqu Hong Mei surpasses it in visual extravagance of form, and in aromatic profile tends toward “meihua-honey” versus Qi Hong’s “rose-orchid.”

• Diānhóng (滇红, Diānhóng): Yunnan red tea from large-leaf variety Camellia sinensis var. assamica. Dianhong is powerful, full-bodied, with cocoa and dried fruit notes, golden tips. Jiuqu Hong Mei is its complete opposite in character: delicate, refined, with elegant “silver” form and lighter texture, produced from small-leaf variety.

• Jiǔcéng Shān Red Tea (九层山红茶): Modern Taiwanese red tea produced in high mountains. Distinguished by more pronounced fruity sweetness and “mountain” freshness characteristic of Taiwanese terroirs. Jiuqu Hong Mei is more “classical” in character, with emphasis on meihua aroma and masterful rolling.

In conclusion:

Jiuqu Hong Mei is a paradox tea: born by refugees from war-torn Wuyi Mountains, it found its own identity on the banks of Qiantang River, survived an era of oblivion and returned to the world stage as the protocol beverage of major international summits. Its finest tea leaves twisted into silver spirals, ruby liquor with golden rim, and multi-layered aroma — from the first floral wave of meihua to the warm honey finale — create a tea experience both refined and profound. This tea will perfectly suit those who value in red tea not power and brutality, but elegance, complexity and history. Together with its eternal partner — green West Lake Longjing — Jiuqu Hong Mei forms a harmonious pair embodying the completeness of tea culture of the ancient capital of Southern Song.