Lóngjí lǜchá

Longji Lü Chá (龙脊绿茶, Lóngjí lǜchá) — “Dragon’s Backbone Green Tea” — is a high-altitude green tea from Longsheng Multi-ethnic Autonomous County (龙胜各族自治县, Lóngshèng Gèzú Zìzhìxiàn) in Guìlín City (桂林市, Guìlín Shì), Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region. The tea is cultivated at altitudes of 800+ m in the cloud belt of the famous Lóngjí Rice Terraces (龙脊梯田, Lóngjí Tītián) — a unique cultural landscape recognized in 2018 as a Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System (GIAHS) by the FAO, and in 2022 the village of Dazhai in the terrace zone was included among UNWTO’s “Best Tourism Villages.” During the Qiánlóng era (乾隆, 1735–1796), tea from Longji became “gongcha” (贡茶, gòngchá) — tribute tea for the imperial court, however local officials monopolistically lowered procurement prices. A peasant named Pān Tiānhóng (潘天红, Pān Tiānhóng) went to the Guilin Prefecture with a complaint — and won the case, resulting in the establishment of a stele “奉宪永禁勒碑” (Fèng Xiàn Yǒngjìn Lèbēi, “Forbidden Forever by Imperial Decree”), which prohibited forced procurement. The stele, reissued during the Xiánfēng era (咸丰), has survived to this day — one of the rarest examples in imperial China of legal protection for tea traders’ rights. The distinctive characteristic of Longji Lü Cha is amino acids at 5.0–5.8% (15% higher than low-altitude analogues) and a light “yanyun” (岩韵, yányùn, “rock rhyme”) — a mineral aftertaste caused by red earth soils rich in iron and manganese.

1. Classification and Origin:

• Type: Green tea (绿茶, lǜchá), non-oxidized, category hongqing (烘青绿茶, hōngqīng lǜchá — green tea fixed by heating). Produced in two forms: strip-shaped (条形, tiáoxíng) — the main product, and spiral-shaped (螺形, luóxíng) — with pronounced fruity undertones.

• Category: Product of Geographical Indication of China (国家农产品地理标志产品, 2015; code AGI2015-02-1699). One of the “Four Treasures of Longji” (龙脊四宝, Lóngjí Sìbǎo). Included in the “Dictionary of Chinese Tea Studies” (《中国茶学辞典》, Zhōngguó Cháxué Cídiǎn) as one of China’s 28 famous teas. Qīng dynasty tribute tea (贡茶) from the Qianlong era. Standard: “Technical Regulations for Longji Tea Production and Processing” (《龙脊茶生产加工技术规程》). Meets the standards of “Green Food Products — Tea” (NY/T 288-2012). By 2014 — 2,000 hectares of tea gardens, annual output — approximately 3,000 tons.

• Origin: China, Guǎngxī Zhuāng Autonomous Region (广西壮族自治区, Guǎngxī Zhuàngzú Zìzhìqū), Guìlín City (桂林市), Longsheng Multi-ethnic Autonomous County (龙胜各族自治县). The production territory covers 10 townships (乡镇) and 119 administrative villages with a total area of 2,370.8 km².

• Geographic coordinates: 25°29′–26°12′ N, 109°43′–110°21′ E (core — Longji terraces area: approximately 25°46′ N, 110°08′ E).

2. History and Cultural Significance:

• Origin of the name. “Longji” (龙脊) literally means “dragon’s backbone” — a mountain ridge along which terraced rice fields descend in steps, resembling dragon scales. “Lü Cha” (绿茶) — “green tea.” The full name, therefore, is “Green Tea [from the] Dragon’s Backbone.”

• Ancient roots. Tea culture in Lóngshèng County dates back to the Southern Sōng era (南宋, 1127–1279), when local Zhuāng (壮族, Zhuàngzú) and Yáo (瑶族, Yáozú) peoples began transplanting wild large-leaf tea trees to mountain areas near rice terraces. In Longjiguzhai village (龙脊古寨, Lóngjí Gǔzhài), tea trees over 200 years old are still preserved — their leaves are used exclusively for the highest grade.

• Flourishing and the “Tea Song of Longji.” The greatest flourishing of tea cultivation in Longji occurred during the period preceding the Qing dynasty rule. Tea trees covered all slopes, every family was engaged in their cultivation. During the Dàoguāng era (道光, 1820–1850), poet Lí Yìngdǒu (黎映斗, Lí Yìngdǒu) wrote “Longji Chage” (龙脊茶歌, “Tea Song of Longji”), praising the mountain tea groves, spring harvest, and taste “like the water of Three Rivers and teas of Mount Mengshan.” The poem is recorded in the “County Chronicle of Yining” (《义宁县志》).

• Tribute tea and the rights stele. During the Qiánlóng era (乾隆), tea from Longji received the status of “gongcha” — tribute tea for the court. However, local officials used this status for monopolistic purchase of tea at lowered prices, prohibiting free trade. Peasant Pān Tiānhóng (潘天红) from Longjiguzhai village, having heard about this, volunteered to represent the interests of his fellow villagers and went to Guìlín Prefecture (桂林府) with a complaint. Famous episode: the renowned peasant, having achieved a decision from the prefect (知府), asked to carve the judicial verdict on a stone stele — and carried it on his back through the mountains back to the village. The stele “奉宪永禁勒碑” not only prohibited forced tea procurement but also resolved several other issues regarding illegal levies. The original stele was damaged, but during the Xiánfēng era (咸丰, 1850–1861) it was re-carved and has survived to this day — a unique monument to legal protection of peasant commercial interests in imperial China.

• Modern times. In 2015, Longji tea received the status of a Product of Geographical Indication of China (GI). The Longji Rice Terraces were recognized in 2018 as a Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System (GIAHS) by the FAO. By 2014, the county’s tea gardens occupied 2,000 hectares, production reached 3,000 tons per year; 13 tea factories and 2 tea cooperatives operate in the county.

• Cultural significance. The Longji Rice Terraces are one of Asia’s most photographed landscapes, attracting visitors from more than 20 countries. Tea from these same mountains is the “green shadow” of the terraces, inextricably linked with the culture of the Zhuàng (壮族), Yáo (瑶族), Miáo (苗族, Miáozú), and Dōng (侗族, Dòngzú) peoples inhabiting the county. The tea is included in the “Four Treasures of Longji” (龙脊四宝) alongside terrace rice, water from mountain streams, and chili peppers.

3. Botanical Description and Raw Material:

• Variety / Cultivar: The main cultivar is Longsheng Daye Zhong (龙胜大叶种, Lóngshèng Dàyè Zhǒng, “Longsheng large-leaf variety”), belonging to the species Camellia sinensis var. sinensis. Semi-arboreal type (小乔木型, xiǎo qiáomù xíng), height — up to 5 m. Buds are large, fleshy; leaves thick, with pronounced juiciness. Biochemical profile: polyphenols — 13–19%, amino acids — 5.0–5.8% (15% higher than low-altitude teas of the same group). Ancient trees aged 200+ years in Longjiguzhai village are used for producing the highest grade.

• Harvest: Spring harvest — primary (April–May). Summer harvest — supplementary. Hand-picking for highest and first grades; mechanized — for mass grades.

• Harvest standard and grades:

  • Highest grade (特级, tèjí): Full bud (单芽) or one bud + one leaf (一芽一叶). Fuzziness ≥90%. Delicate, “clean” aroma (清香). Price from 600 yuan per 500 g.
  • First grade (一级, yījí): One bud + one-two leaves. Chestnut aroma (栗香). 200–400 yuan per 500 g.
  • Grades 2–6: One bud + two-three leaves. Mass product. Up to 150 yuan per 500 g.

• Raw material requirements: Plantation management involves a complete ban on pesticides; only wood ash and oil cake are used as fertilizers. The standard complies with “Green Food Products” norms (NY/T 288).

4. Terroir and Cultivation:

• Climate: Subtropical monsoon. Average annual temperature — 18.1°C (extreme maximum — 39.5°C, minimum — −4.8°C). Frost-free period — 314 days. Precipitation — 1,500–2,400 mm per year. Cloud cover — more than 180 days per year. Diffused light comprises about 70% of total insolation flow. Average annual sunshine duration — 1,223.3 hours. Daily temperature range — more than 10°C. Average annual relative humidity — 82%. Formula: “summer without heat, winter without cold, year-round — clouds, fog, and light wind” — ideal conditions for amino acid accumulation.

• Altitude: Main tea gardens — at altitudes of 800+ m. Production core — Lóngjí Township (龙脊镇, Lóngjí Zhèn) and Jiāngdǐ Township (江底乡, Jiāngdǐ Xiāng), providing about 60% of total output.

• Soils: Slightly acidic red earth (赤红壤, chìhóngrǎng; pH 5.8–6.9). Soil layer is deep, loose, well-drained. Organic matter content ≥2.5%. Soils are rich in iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), and zinc (Zn) — precisely these minerals form the characteristic “yanyun” (岩韵) — mineral aftertaste, usually associated with Wuyi oolongs, but here manifesting in green tea.

• Ecology: Forest cover — 78.8%. County territory — without industrial enterprises, “zero three pollutions” (三废, sānfèi — industrial waste, sewage, emissions). Water resources — more than 480 rivers and streams flowing into the Xúnjiāng River (浔江); water quality meets national drinking water supply standards. The territory is one of China’s priority water resource protection areas.

5. Production Technology:

Longji Lü Cha technology combines traditional principles with mechanization at the kill-green and rolling stages. The key principle is “高温短时” (gāowēn duǎnshí, “high temperature, short time”), minimizing amino acid loss and preserving freshness.

• Leaf spreading (摊青, tān qīng): Freshly picked leaves are spread in a thin layer on bamboo sieves in a ventilated room. Duration — 4–6 hours. Goal — gentle evaporation of excess moisture, beginning formation of aromatic precursors.

• Kill-green (杀青, shāqīng): Main fixation stage. Rotary drum at approximately 300°C — “高温短时” method. Rapid heating deactivates polyphenol oxidase, preventing oxidation. High temperature in a short time reduces “grassy” notes by 30%, simultaneously forming chestnut aroma.

• Rolling (揉捻, róuniǎn): Following the “light → heavy → light” scheme (轻-重-轻). Breaking cellular structure to release juices and form strip shape. For spiral shape (螺形), an additional rolling stage into a “snail” is performed, giving the tea fruity undertones.

• Primary drying (毛火, máohuǒ): Temperature — 120°C. Rapid removal of primary moisture.

• Final drying (足火, zúhuǒ): Temperature — 90°C. Drying to residual moisture ≤6%. Stabilization of aroma and taste.

6. Organoleptic Characteristics:

• Dry leaf appearance: Strip shape (条形): dense, straight, well-twisted strips of emerald-green color with abundant white fuzz. Spiral shape (螺形): tight, firm spirals, surface covered with silvery fuzz.

• Dry leaf aroma: Clean, fresh (清香, qīngxiāng) — for highest grade. “Tender” (嫩香, nèn xiāng) — for spring harvest. Chestnut (栗香, lìxiāng) — for first grade. Fruity (果香, guǒxiāng) — distinctive characteristic of spiral shape.

• Liquor aroma: Clean, persistent. Chestnut notes with light floral overtones. Aroma in cold cup persists for more than 15 minutes — indicator of high aromatic compound content.

• Taste: Fresh (鲜爽, xiānshuǎng) — dominant characteristic, due to high amino acid content. Mellow (醇和, chúnhé) — result of moderate polyphenol content (13–19%). Pronounced returning sweetness (回甘, huígān) — persistent, described by the poetic term “高山冷韵” (gāoshān lěngyùn, “high-mountain cold rhyme”). Light “yanyun” (岩韵) — mineral aftertaste contributed by iron and manganese from red earth soils. This is an unusual characteristic for green tea: the term “yanyun” is traditionally applied to Wuyi oolongs, but in this case describes a real mineral profile.

• Liquor color: Highest grade — emerald-green, bright and clear (碧绿清澈, bìlǜ qīngchè). Mass grades — yellow-green, clear.

• Spent leaves (wet leaves): Tender green, glossy, fleshy. Leaves are elastic, buds intact.

7. Chemical Composition:

• Amino acids: 5.0–5.8% — one of the highest indicators among Chinese green teas. Main component — L-theanine, providing taste freshness and calming effect.

• Polyphenols: 13–19% — moderate level for green tea (typical range — 15–35%), which explains the mildness and absence of pronounced bitterness. Main components — catechins, including epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG).

• Caffeine: 2–4% (typical for green tea range), providing tonic effect. In combination with high L-theanine content, stimulation is mild and sustained without sharp peaks.

• Fluorine: 30% higher than average for green tea — enhanced tooth enamel protection through fluorapatite formation.

• Minerals: Iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), zinc (Zn) — from red earth soils. Elevated Mn content correlates with antioxidant activity; Zn participates in immune regulation.

• Vitamins: Vitamin C — 100–300 mg per 100 g dry tea (characteristic of green teas subjected to gentle processing). B vitamins (B₁, B₂, B₃), vitamin E (~35 mg/100 g), carotenoids.

• Essential oils: Terpene compounds forming the chestnut-floral profile. Content somewhat lower than in oolongs, which is typical for green teas with minimal processing.

8. Health Properties:

• Antioxidant action. Catechins (EGCG and its analogues) neutralize free radicals, slowing oxidative stress. Manganese from red earth soils additionally enhances antioxidant potential.

• Tonic effect. Caffeine in combination with L-theanine provides mild, prolonged stimulation of the central nervous system — “calm alertness” without anxiety.

• Tooth enamel protection. Elevated fluorine content (30% higher than ordinary green tea) promotes enamel strengthening through fluorapatite formation, reducing caries risk.

• Cardiovascular system support. Polyphenols help reduce “bad” cholesterol (LDL) levels and normalize blood pressure.

• Digestive improvement. Catechins exhibit antibacterial action in the gastrointestinal tract, stimulate gastric juice secretion and promote food absorption.

• Cognitive support. L-theanine stimulates α-wave production in the brain, improving attention concentration and learning ability.

• Ecological purity. Pesticide ban and use of only organic fertilizers (ash, oil cake) minimize harmful impurity content in the finished product.

9. Brewing:

• Water temperature: 80–85°C for standard grades. For highest grade — 75°C (lower temperature preserves delicate aroma and prevents “overcooking” of buds).

• Tea quantity: 3 g per 150 ml water (1:50 ratio).

• Teaware: Glass tumbler (玻璃杯, bōlíbēi) — for observing leaf unfurling and liquor color. Porcelain gàiwǎn (盖碗, gàiwǎn) volume 100–150 ml — for controlled brewing.

• Process:

  1. Warm teaware with boiling water, drain.
  2. Add 3 g tea.
  3. Top-down method (先注水后投茶, xiān zhù shuǐ hòu tóu chá): first pour water of needed temperature to about 1/3 volume, then add tea and fill completely.
  4. First infusion — 30 seconds.
  5. Each subsequent — +10 seconds.
  6. 3–4 infusions. Highest grade withstands up to 4 full steeps.

10. Storage:

• Conditions: Airtight packaging (vacuum bags or jars with tight lids). Refrigerator storage at 0–5°C — optimal for preserving amino acid profile freshness.
• Tea enemies: Moisture, direct sunlight, foreign odors, high temperature.
• Shelf life: Unopened package — up to 18 months with proper storage. After opening — recommended consumption within 3 months. Tea is not suitable for aging — amino acid profile degrades over time.

11. Market and Price Range:

• Price range: Highest grade (特级) — from 600 yuan per 500 g. First grade — 200–400 yuan. Grades 2–6 — up to 150 yuan. Leaves from ancient trees (200+ years) — significantly more expensive, sold primarily within the region.

• Authenticity Identification:

  • Purchase products with geographical indication marking “龙脊绿茶” (GI logo and code AGI2015-02-1699).
  • Evaluate appearance: genuine Longji Lü Cha highest grade has abundant white fuzz and emerald color; fakes are often dull or uneven.
  • Check aroma: characteristic “high-altitude” purity and absence of “grassy” notes typical of low-altitude teas with insufficient fixation.
  • Evaluate liquor: emerald-green, bright and clear, without cloudiness. Fakes from low-altitude material produce dull yellow-green liquor.
  • Suspiciously low price: highest grade tea cannot cost less than 400 yuan per 500 g — cheaper variants typically belong to mass grades or are fakes.

12. Interesting Facts:

• Tea traders’ rights stele. “奉宪永禁勒碑” — one of the rarest cases in imperial China when a peasant won a case against officials, defending the right to free tea trade. Pan Tianhong not only achieved the verdict but also asked to carve it on a stone stele — and carried it on his back through the mountains back to the village. According to legend, when the boat with Pān Tiānhóng and the stele was crossing Qingshi Lake (青狮潭), a storm broke out, overturning all surrounding boats — but the vessel with the heavy stele remained stable.

• “Tea Song of Longji.” Poet Lì Yìngdǒu (黎映斗) during the Daoguang era wrote “龙脊茶歌” — a 20-line poem praising tea groves from cloudy peaks to green valleys. In it, Lóngjí tea is compared to the best teas of Mount Méngshān (蒙山) and Dǐng Lake (顶渚) — highest praise for tea of its time.

• 5.0–5.8% amino acids. One of the highest indicators among Chinese green teas — higher than most “premium” teas, including several grades of Longjing. Reason — altitude 800+ m, cloud cover >180 days and daily temperature difference >10°C, slowing photosynthesis and reducing amino acid conversion to polyphenols.

• “Rock rhyme” in green tea. The term “yanyun” (岩韵) is usually applied to Wuyi oolongs, where it’s associated with the mineral profile of Wuyi soils. In the case of Longji, similar mineral aftertaste is caused by red earth rich in Fe and Mn — a rare case where “yanyun” is documented in green tea.

• Global agricultural heritage. Longji Rice Terraces — FAO GIAHS site (2018), National Wetland Park, UNWTO “Best Tourism Village” (2022, Dazhai village). Tea gardens are located above the terraces, in the cloud belt — their beauty is inseparable from the landscape attracting more than 1.5 million tourists annually.

13. Comparison with Other Green Teas:

• Xī Hú Lǒng Jìng (西湖龙井, Xīhú Lóngjǐng): Flat shape, wok-firing, chestnut aroma with bean undertones. Amino acids — 3–4%. Longji Lü Cha exceeds in amino acid content (5.0–5.8%) and possesses mineral “yanyun” absent in Longjing.

• Bì Luò Chún (碧螺春, Bìluóchūn): Spiral shape, fruity-floral aroma, light body. Amino acids — 3–4%. Spiral-shaped Longji has similar form but denser body and pronounced mineral overtones.

• Huángshān Máo Fēng (黄山毛峰, Huángshān Máofēng): Fuzzy, delicate, orchid aroma, altitude 700–1,800 m. Amino acids — 4–5%. Closest analogue in high-altitude character, but without “yanyun” and with more pronounced floral notes.

• Xìnyáng Máo Jiān (信阳毛尖, Xìnyáng Máojiān): Fuzzy, fresh, somewhat astringent. Polyphenols — higher (18–25%). Compared to it, Longji is significantly milder and sweeter due to higher amino acid to polyphenol ratio.

• Ānjí Bái Chá (安吉白茶, Ānjí Báichá): Record amino acids — 5–7%. Light body, delicate taste with umami. In amino acid profile Longji is comparable, but differs in denser body and mineral aftertaste, which Anji lacks.

In conclusion:

Longji Lü Cha — tea from terraces where the dragon arched its backbone: 800 meters of clouds, 5.0–5.8% amino acids, “rock rhyme” from red earth and an 18th-century stone stele that peasant Pan Tianhong carried on his back through the mountains to protect the right to free tea trade. This is tea with one of the highest amino acid indicators among Chinese green teas, possessing mineral aftertaste rare for its category. Behind a cup of Longji — 2,300 years of terraced agriculture, the “Tea Song” of a Daoguang-era poet, ancient trees of Longjiguzhai village, and a landscape recognized as world agricultural heritage. Tea for those who value not only taste but also landscape — one of the most photogenic teas in China.