Pan'an Yun Feng · new.thetea.app

Pan’an Yun Feng (磐安云峰, Pán’ān yún fēng) — “Cloud Peak of Pan’an [County]” — is a green tea from Pan’an County (磐安县) in Jinhua City (金华市), Zhejiang Province, located in the Dapanshan Mountain Range (大盘山脉) — known as “群山之祖、诸水之源” (“Progenitor of Mountains, Source of All Waters”): here originate four major river systems — Qiantangjiang (钱塘江), Oujiang (瓯江), Lingjiang (灵江) and Cao’ejiang (曹娥江). Pan’an’s tea tradition dates back to the Jin Dynasty (3rd–5th centuries): according to legend, the Daoist saint Xu Xun (许逊, “True Sovereign”, 真君大帝) — one of the “Four Great Celestial Masters” (四大天师) — while wandering through Pan’an’s mountains, discovered wild tea trees, taught local farmers processing techniques and created the famous “Wuzhou Dongbai” (婺州东白, “Eastern White Tea of Wuzhou”). Lu Yu included “Wuzhou Dongbai” among famous teas in the “Tea Classic”, noting “大盘山、东白山产者佳，列为贡品” — “from Dapanshan and Dongbaishan Mountains — the best, listed as tribute tea”. The county hosts Yushan Ancient Tea Market (玉山古茶场) — China’s only fully preserved ancient tea market (founded during Song, rebuilt during Qing, area 3,430 sq.m), a national key cultural relic protection unit (全国重点文物保护单位). In 2022, “Gan Chachang” (赶茶场, “Tea Market Fair” — Pan’an’s folk festival) was included in “Traditional Chinese Tea Processing Techniques and Associated Customs”, inscribed on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage List.

Quality formula: “三绿一香” (sān lǜ yī xiāng, “three greens — one fragrance”): green strip, green liquor, green leaf base + orchid fragrance. Soil organic matter — 3.5–14.8% — one of the highest ranges among all Chinese tea regions. Water-extractable substances — 47% (exceeding national standard of 36% by 11 percentage points). Forest coverage — 80.1%. Brand value — 23.51 billion yuan (2024).

1. Classification and Origin:

Type: Green tea (绿茶, lǜchá), unfermented. Half-roasted half-dried (半炒半烘, bàn chǎo bàn hōng). Two forms: strip-shaped (条形, tiáo xíng — “needle-shaped”, primary) and flat (扁形, biǎn xíng). Proprietary shaping technique “抖捺理” (dǒu nà lǐ) — “shaking, pressing, aligning” — alternating three manual techniques to preserve shoot integrity and form characteristic “needle” structure.
Category: Geographical Indication Product of China (国家农产品地理标志产品, 2020). “National Famous Tea” (全国名茶, Ministry of Commerce, 1986). “Cultural Tea” of Hangzhou Tea Festival (文化名茶, 1991). County-level intangible cultural heritage (县级非遗, 2021 — technique). “Gan Chachang” (赶茶场) — part of UNESCO heritage (2022). Tang Dynasty “tribute tea” (婺州东白). Yushan Ancient Tea Market — national key cultural relic.
Origin: China, Zhejiang Province (浙江省), Jinhua City (金华市), Pan’an County (磐安县). 14 townships and towns. Dapanshan Mountain Range (大盘山脉), 600–1,200 m. Coordinates: 120°17′–120°47′ E, 28°49′–29°19′ N.

2. History and Cultural Significance:

History:

Pan’an — a “pure mountain county” (纯山区县), one of the most mountainous in Zhejiang, “群山之祖、诸水之源” — “Progenitor of Mountains, Source of All Waters”. Tea history begins in the Jin Dynasty (3rd–5th centuries): Daoist saint Xu Xun (许逊, 239–374), venerated as “True Sovereign” (真君大帝) and one of the “Four Great Celestial Masters” (四大天师) — alongside Zhang Daoling, Ge Hong and Sa Shoujian — while wandering through Yushan Mountains in Pan’an, discovered wild tea trees and taught local farmers advanced processing techniques. The result was “Wuzhou Dongbai” (婺州东白) — a tea that became famous throughout China. Xu Xun — a real historical figure, native of Nanchang, renowned for flood control on the Gan River; the Daoist tradition of the Jingming School (净明道) venerates him as founder. Song Dynasty tea farmers of Yushan, grateful to Xu Xun, erected “Chachangmiao” (茶场庙, “Tea Market Temple”) in his honor, where he is worshipped as “tea deity” (茶神) to this day — the only temple in China where a Daoist saint is venerated specifically as tea patron.

During Tang, Lu Yu included “Wuzhou Dongbai” in the “Tea Classic”, noting: “大盘山、东白山产者佳，列为贡品” — the tea became “tribute tea”. During Song, around the Tea Market Temple formed Yushan Ancient Tea Market — one of China’s oldest tea trading markets, where the state conducted “tea monopoly” (榷茶, quèchá). The current building (Qing, area 3,430 sq.m) includes the Temple, administrative premises and trading hall — China’s only fully preserved ancient tea market (全国唯一保存完整的古代茶叶市场遗址).

In 1979, based on Tang’s “Wuzhou Dongbai” and incorporating techniques from Xihu Longjing, Taiping Houkui and Emei Erui, modern “Pan’an Yun Feng” was created. In 1983 — restoration of Pan’an County (previously part of Dongyang): Dapanshan and Dongbaishan Mountains were divided between two counties, with Pan’an “inheriting” Dapanshan and Dongyang — Dongbaishan. This necessitated a new name — “Yun Feng” (“Cloud Peak”). In 1986 — “National Famous Tea” (Ministry of Commerce). In 2020 — Geographical Indication. In 2022, “Gan Chachang” (赶茶场) — folk fair-festival at Yushan Ancient Tea Market — was included in UNESCO heritage “Traditional Chinese Tea Processing Techniques and Associated Customs”.

Name: 磐安 (Pán’ān) — county name; 云峰 (Yún Fēng) — “cloud peak” — image of mountain peaks shrouded in clouds. Full meaning: “Cloud Peak of Pan’an”. Brand slogan: “道骨仙风，磐安峰” — “Spirit of Dao and wind of immortals — Pan’an peak”.
Cultural significance: Pan’an — “群山之祖、诸水之源” (“Progenitor of Mountains, Source of All Waters”): watershed of four great Zhejiang rivers. Connection with Daoism (Xu Xun — one of the “Four Celestial Masters”), ancient tea market and UNESCO heritage make Pan’an Yun Feng a tea where “nature, Dao and commerce” have intertwined for 1,700 years.

3. Botanical Description and Raw Material:

Variety/cultivar: Primary — Muhe Quntizhong (木荷群体种) — indigenous local variety adapted to mountain fog climate. Additionally: Longjing 43 (龙井43), Wuniu Zao (乌牛早). Highest grade: single bud or one bud + one leaf, shoot length ≤3.5 cm.
Harvest: Spring — before Qingming. Standards vary by grade: highest — single buds (90%+ down); first — one bud + one leaf (≥90%); second — one bud + two leaves.
Grades:
- Special (特级): Full bud, down ≥85%. From 2,000 yuan/500g.
- First (一级): One bud + one leaf ≥90%. 800–2,000 yuan.
- Second (二级): One bud + two leaves. 300–800 yuan.

4. Terroir and Cultivation Features:

Pan’an — “纯山区县” (pure mountain county): mountains occupy 100% of territory. Dapanshan (大盘山, 1,245 m) — main peak, “roof of four rivers”.

Elevation: 600–1,200 m. Core zone — 800+ m.
Climate: Subtropical monsoon. Average annual temperature — 16.1°C. Precipitation — 1,570 mm. Foggy days — ≥200. Humidity — ≥85%. “Mountains high, waters pure, forests dense, fogs heavy” (山高水秀、林密雾重) — terroir formula.
Soils: Red-yellow (红黄壤, pH 4.5–5.5). Soil horizon depth — 50–100 cm. Organic matter — 3.5–14.8% — one of the highest and widest ranges among Chinese tea regions. Mountain spring water with minimal mineralization.
Ecology: Forest coverage — 80.1%. Pan’an — national demonstration county for ecological civilization construction (国家级生态文明建设示范县). Zero industry in mountain zones. In 2007, Ministry of Agriculture laboratory analysis revealed: water-extractable substances — 47% (11 percentage points above national standard of 36%), 13 pesticides — not detected, lead — 0.74 mg/kg (with safety standard of 5 mg/kg). “Typical mountain tea characteristics” — expert conclusion.

5. Production Technology:

Pan’an Yun Feng technology inherits “Wuzhou Dongbai” and integrates elements from Xihu Longjing (flat form), Taiping Houkui (large shoot shaping) and Emei Erui (gentle drying). Main stages:

Spreading (摊放): 3–6 hours. Moisture loss ~15%.
Fixation (杀青) — in tilted wok (斜锅, xiégūo): Temperature — 160°C. Unlike standard horizontal wok, tilted wok (斜锅) enables simultaneous tossing and rolling of leaves down the wall under gravity. Tool — bamboo spatula (竹炒手, zhú chǎoshǒu) or zongzhou (棕帚, palm broom). Principle: “叶翠不老，叶熟不黄，折梗不断” — “leaf stays green, doesn’t age; leaf cooks through, doesn’t yellow; stem bends, doesn’t break”. Tilted wok + bamboo spatula — unique Pan’an technology feature, not found in most other Zhejiang green teas.
Shaping (做形) — proprietary “抖捺理” technique: In flat wok (平锅), 80°C. Three techniques alternate:
- Dǒu (抖) — “shaking”: Leaves are tossed and separated. Tender leaves — more “dǒu”; coarse — less.
- Nà (捺) — “pressing”: Leaves pressed against wok wall. Tender — do not press (嫩叶不捺); coarse — press harder.
- Lǐ (理) — “aligning”: Shoots aligned into straight “needles”.
Result: straight, slender shoots (紧直苗秀) with preserved integrity — leaves don’t break or crumble.
Drying — two-stage:
- Initial (初烘): 100–120°C. To moisture ~30% (“刺手感” — “pricks hands”).
- Final (复烘) — “slow over gentle fire” (文火慢烘): To moisture ≤6%. Goal — even drying and fragrance “development”. Shoot crumbles to powder when rubbed.
Selection (拣剔) and packaging.

6. Organoleptic Characteristics:

Dry leaf appearance: Straight, slender “needles” (紧直苗秀, jǐnzhí miáoxiù), “like shoots standing at attention”. Emerald green, glossy (翠绿鲜润). Down visible but not dominant.
Dry leaf aroma: Pure, high, persistent (清高持久, qīng gāo chíjiǔ). Orchid (兰花清香, lánhuā qīngxiāng) — primary.
Liquor aroma: Orchid-floral, “airy”. When cooled — “honey” and “chestnut” overtones. Persistence — 3+ minutes on cold cup.
Taste: Fresh, mellow, refreshing (鲜醇爽口, xiān chún shuǎng kǒu). Sweet-mellow (甘醇). Returning aftertaste — sweet, long (回味甘甜). Bitterness and astringency — minimal.
Liquor color: Tender green (嫩绿明亮) — in some sources “杏绿” (“apricot-green”).
Leaf base (infused leaf): Tender, “in bouquets”, green and bright (嫩绿成朵). Shoots — whole, unbroken.
Quality formula: “三绿一香” (sān lǜ yī xiāng) — “three greens — one fragrance”: green strip (条索翠绿) + green liquor (汤色嫩绿) + green leaf base (叶底绿亮) + orchid fragrance (兰花清香).

7. Chemical Composition:

Water-extractable substances: 47% — 11 percentage points above national standard (36%). This means almost half of dry matter transfers to liquor — one of the highest indicators among Zhejiang green teas and all China. High water-extractables — direct consequence of record soil organics (3.5–14.8%) and 200 foggy days: tea bush, receiving minimal direct sun, synthesizes more soluble substances (amino acids, sugars) and less insoluble (lignin, cellulose). Result — liquor with rich “body” while maintaining mellowness.
Polyphenols (茶多酚): ~19.2% — moderate level ensuring mellowness.
Amino acids (氨基酸): Elevated — consequence of 200 foggy days, diffused light and record soil organics (3.5–14.8%). EGCG active.
Lead (Pb): 0.74 mg/kg — 6.8 times below safety standard (5 mg/kg).
Pesticides: 13 types — not detected (2007 analysis).
Caffeine: Standard for green tea.

8. Health Benefits:

Antioxidant protection: EGCG + vitamin C — dual antioxidant system. Polyphenols 19.2% with high water-extractables (47%) ensure effective antioxidant extraction into liquor.
Invigorating effect: Caffeine in synergy with L-theanine — gentle, prolonged alertness.
Digestive support: Catechins stimulate GI motility and fat breakdown.
Cognitive functions: L-theanine stimulates brain alpha-wave activity.
Ecological purity: Zero pesticides + low lead = one of Zhejiang’s “cleanest” teas.
Important: Listed properties based on general data and are not medical recommendations. Not recommended on empty stomach. Daily dose — no more than 600 ml.

9. Brewing:

Water temperature: 85°C. Do not use boiling water — shoots are tender and “burn”.
Tea quantity: 3g per 150 ml (ratio 1:50).
Vessel: Glass cup — for observing shoot “dance”: straight “needles” slowly descend vertically, open in “bouquets”, resembling “orchid petals” (形如兰花瓣瓣). This is one of Zhejiang’s most aesthetic tea rituals.
Method — “三投法” (Sān tóu fǎ, “Three Pours”):
1. Warm the glass.
2. Add tea.
3. Pour 1/3 water (85°C).
4. Swirl glass 30 seconds — “awakening”.
5. Fill to 7/10 volume.
6. Steep 1.5 minutes.
Number of infusions: 3–4. Each subsequent — +20–30 seconds.

10. Storage:

Temperature: 0–5°C (refrigerator), hermetically sealed. Pan’an Yun Feng — delicate “half-roasted half-dried” tea, sensitive to moisture and odors.
Container: Hermetic, opaque.
Light: Complete isolation.
Shelf life: Recommended within 6–8 months. After opening — 30 days.

11. Price and Counterfeits:

Pan’an Yun Feng — high price segment tea. Special grade — from 2,000 yuan/500g; first — 800–2,000 yuan; second — 300–800 yuan.

How to avoid counterfeits:
- GI — “磐安云峰”. Brand value — 23.51 billion yuan.
- Shape — straight, slender “needles” (紧直苗秀), not twisted or flat.
- Aroma — orchid (兰花清香). Absence of orchid note — sign of substitution.
- Formula “三绿一香” — all three “greens” (strip, liquor, base) + one fragrance.

12. Interesting Facts:

Daoist saint created the tea. Xu Xun (许逊, 239–374) — one of Daoism’s “Four Great Celestial Masters” (四大天师) — personally taught Yushan farmers tea processing and created “Wuzhou Dongbai”. Tea Market Temple (茶场庙) — his shrine. Brand slogan: “道骨仙风” — “Spirit of Dao and wind of immortals”.
UNESCO (2022). “Gan Chachang” (赶茶场) — folk fair-festival at Yushan Tea Market — included in UNESCO heritage “Traditional Chinese Tea Processing Techniques”. This is one of rare cases where not the tea itself, but tea fair received UNESCO status.
China’s only ancient tea market. Yushan Ancient Tea Market — 全国唯一保存完整的古代茶叶市场遗址 — China’s only fully preserved ancient tea trading market. Area — 3,430 sq.m.
Source of four rivers. Pan’an — watershed of Qiantangjiang, Oujiang, Lingjiang and Cao’ejiang. Tea grows on the “roof” of four river systems flowing into the Pacific Ocean.
Organics 3.5–14.8%. Record range among Chinese tea regions. 14.8% organics — chernozem level, but on mountain acidic soil.
Water-extractables 47%. 11 percentage points above standard (36%). Almost half of tea transfers to liquor — maximum “yield”.
Tilted wok + bamboo spatula (斜锅竹炒手). Pan’an-unique roasting: wok tilt makes leaves roll down while spatula tosses them up — “gravitational roasting”.
“三绿一香” — “Three greens — one fragrance”. Quality formula engraved in every glass of Pan’an Yun Feng.

Conclusion:

Pan’an Yun Feng is a tea from the “roof of four rivers”, created by Daoist saint Xu Xun in the 3rd century, praised by Lu Yu in the “Tea Classic” as “tribute tea”, traded at China’s only fully preserved ancient tea market, and in 2022 entered UNESCO heritage through its “Gan Chachang” fair. Its formula “三绿一香” — three greens and one orchid fragrance — is born from 200 foggy days, 80% forest coverage, organics up to 14.8%, and tilted wok with bamboo spatula. Brew at 85°C using the “three pours” method and observe how straight “needles” slowly unfold into “orchid bouquets” in crystal water — and allow the “Spirit of Dao and wind of immortals” to fill your cup.