Shèngzhōu Huī Bái

Shengzhou Hui Bai is one of the few surviving representatives of Chinese round-rolled green teas. This tea from Zhejiang Province, which gained fame during the Qing dynasty as a court tribute, is distinguished by its characteristic “seemingly round but not round” shape and unique low-temperature huiguo technology — slow roasting in an inclined wok. Among connoisseurs, it is valued as the “pearl among China’s round green teas.”

1. Classification and Origin:

• Type: Green tea (绿茶, lǜchá). Non-oxidized, degree of oxidation minimal (less than 5%).
• Category: Historic Famous Tea of China (中国历史名茶). Regional premium green tea of round-rolled type (圆形绿茶, yuánxíng lǜchá).
• Origin: China, Zhèjiāng Province (浙江省, Zhèjiāng shěng), Shèngzhōu City (嵊州市, Shèngzhōu shì), Sìmíng Mountain area (四明山, Sìmíng Shān). Main production zones: Xiàwáng Township (下王镇, Xiàwáng zhèn) — Quángǎng Village (泉岗村, Quángǎng cūn), as well as Guìmén Township (贵门乡, Guìmén xiāng) — Shàngwùshān Village (上坞山村, Shàngwùshān cūn).
• Geographic coordinates: Approximately 29.70° N, 120.88° E (reference point — Quangang Village on the southern slope of Mount Fuzhi).

2. History and Cultural Significance:

• History: The territory of modern Shèngzhōu in ancient times was part of Yuèzhōu Prefecture (越州), and local tea was known under the general name Yuèzhōu Chá (越州茶). As early as the Western Han period (206 BCE — 9 CE), these lands, then called Shān County (剡县), were famous for tea from the upper reaches of the Shǎnxī River (剡溪). During the Tang era, tea master Lù Yǔ (陆羽, Lù Yǔ) in “The Classic of Tea” (茶经, Chájīng) mentioned teas from Yuezhou Prefecture.

  Hui Bai proper as a tea with the rolled form “seemingly round but not round” (似圆非圆) began to develop, according to most tea scholars, no later than the early Qing era (17th century). During the Tóngzhì reign period (同治, 1862–1874), the technology was finally perfected, and the tea received the status of court tribute (贡茶, gòngchá). It was during this time that it became known as Qiángǎng Huí Bái (前岗辉白) — after Qiangang Village (later Quangang).

  In 1915, the tea was awarded a gold medal at the Panama-Pacific International Exposition in San Francisco. According to some sources, in British tea circles it was called “Green Pearl.” In 1956, the Hong Kong newspaper “Dagongbao” included Quangang Hui Bai in its list of ten famous teas of China, placing it in second position.

  During the wars and turmoil of the mid-20th century, the production technology was nearly lost. Revival began in 1975, when master-keeper of intangible heritage Yǔ Fanghua (俞芳华) restored the traditional craft. Since the 2010s, the tea has received a number of official recognitions: status as a famous trademark of Zhejiang Province, inclusion in the registry of intangible cultural heritage of Shaoxing. In 2019, Shengzhou Hui Bai was awarded the certificate “Old Brand of Zhejiang Province” (浙江老字号).

• Name: Shèngzhōu (嵊州) — the administrative county where the tea is produced. Huí (辉) — reference to the key technological stage huiguo (辉锅, “roasting for shine”), during which the dry leaf acquires a characteristic whitish bloom-”frost.” Bái (白) — “white,” describing this very frost (起霜, qǐshuāng) on the surface of the finished tea. Thus, the full name literally means “shining white [tea] from Shengzhou.” Historical variants of writing: Qiángǎng Huí Bái (前岗辉白 / 前冈煇白), Quángǎng Huí Bái (泉岗辉白).

• Cultural significance: Huī Bái is closely connected with the cultural history of Zhèjiāng green teas and is considered the progenitor of the famous Píngshǔi Zhūchá (平水珠茶, píngshǔi zhūchá) — “pearl tea,” which from the Qing era became one of China’s main export green teas. If Pingshui Zhucha evolved toward maximally dense round rolling for the convenience of maritime export, then Hui Bai preserved the archaic “not quite round” form, remaining a tea for the domestic market and connoisseurs. Local residents describe the geography of Qiangang Village with a poetic saying: “Qiangang dalingtou, zoulu peng bitou, yunyu rao shantou, laohu dun yantou” (前岗大岭头，走路碰鼻头，云雾绕山头，老虎蹲岩头 — “On the great ridge of Qiangang the road runs into the nose, mist wraps around the peaks, and a tiger sits on the rock”).

3. Botanical Description and Raw Material:

• Species: Camellia sinensis var. sinensis.
• Variety / Cultivar: Local population variety (当地群体种, dāngdì qúntǐ zhǒng) — medium-leaf and small-leaf type (中小叶种, zhōngxiǎo yè zhǒng), a historically formed genetic mixture of lines adapted to the mountain terroir of Siming Mountain. Distinguished by high frost resistance and abundant white down on young shoots.
• Harvest: Predominantly spring — around Gǔyǔ (谷雨, “Grain Rain,” approximately April 19–21). Highest grades are picked before Guyu, standard grades — after.
• Picking standard: For highest grade (高档辉白): one bud and one leaf (一芽一叶, yī yá yī yè), picked before Guyu — such raw material comprises about 30% of total volume. For medium grade: one bud and two leaves in initial opening stage (一芽二叶初展). For standard grade: from one bud with two to one bud with three leaves in initial opening stage. To produce 500 g of highest grade tea requires 40,000–50,000 buds.
• Raw material requirements: Shoots must be robust, with abundant white down (芽叶肥壮，多白毫). After picking, raw material is immediately sorted, achieving uniformity by size and degree of maturity, then laid out by grades for separate processing.

4. Terroir and Cultivation:

• Topography and geography: Tea gardens are located on the southern slope of Mount Fùzhì (覆卮山, Fùzhī Shān, peak elevation 861 m), part of the Siming Mountain range system. The production core — ancient tea gardens of Quangang Village at about 500 m elevation and plantations of Shangwushan Village at about 650 m elevation, located in the belt of ancient glacial deposits.
• Growing altitude: 500–800 m above sea level.
• Climate: Subtropical monsoon. Average annual number of foggy days — over 280. Air humidity ≥ 80%. Significant diurnal temperature variation promotes accumulation of aromatic and flavor compounds in the leaf. A local saying describes the conditions: “Mist wraps around the peaks” — tea bushes literally grow in clouds.
• Soils: Yellow-brown soils of the glacial belt of Fuzhi Mountain, known in local tradition as “ash earth” (香灰土, xiānghuī tǔ). Rich in organic matter and mineral elements. Forest coverage of the territory — 93%, industrial pollution absent.
• Agrotechnics: Ecological plantation management without use of industrial fertilizers and pesticides. Natural shading is provided by mountain forest. Diffused light (漫射光, màn shè guāng) through fog and tree crowns promotes increased synthesis of aromatic substances and amino acids in the leaf.

5. Production Technology:

The production of Shengzhou Hui Bai is a meticulous process taking approximately 15 hours in total. The key feature of the technology is the prolonged low-temperature roasting huiguo (辉锅), which forms the unique “seemingly round” leaf shape and characteristic whitish frost on its surface. The entire process is performed by hand using bamboo and wooden tools that minimize tea contact with metal.

• Fixation (杀青 — shāqīng): Temperature of inclined wok 200–220°C. Load — about 1.5–1.7 kg fresh leaf per wok. The master works with bamboo fork-sticks, applying the technique “more steaming, less tossing” (多闷少抛, duō mèn shǎo pāo) for even fixation without overdrying the surface. Duration — 8–9 minutes.
• Primary rolling (初揉 — chū róu): Hot leaf after shaqing is immediately rolled by hand with both hands in a “rolling” motion (滚揉, gǔn róu) until it becomes slightly sticky to the touch. Duration — 2–3 minutes.
• Primary drying (初烘 — chū hōng): Rolled leaf is spread out and dried on bamboo roasters (冲, chōng — local name, analog of hongshao) over charcoal at about 90°C until color darkens and stickiness is lost.
• Re-rolling (复揉 — fù róu): Additional 2–3-minute hand rolling for enhanced shaping.
• Re-drying (复烘 — fù hōng): Temperature drops to 60°C, duration — 10–12 minutes.
• “Second green” roasting (炒二青 — chǎo èr qīng): Conducted in inclined wok at about 120°C. Load increases to 2.5–3.0 kg. The master with both hands “pushes” and “rubs” the leaf (推炒, tuī chǎo), giving it preliminary round form. Duration — 30–35 minutes.
• Huiguo — “roasting for shine” (辉锅 — huīguō): This is the central and defining stage. Leaf from two previous batches is loaded into the inclined wok. Initial temperature — about 100°C, then it gradually decreases to 30–40°C. The master gently pushes the tea along the wok wall with both hands, causing leaves to slowly curl. The process lasts 3–4 hours — this is the longest stage. It is precisely during huiguo that the leaf acquires the signature “coiled disc” shape (盘花卷曲, pánhuā juǎnqū) and becomes covered with whitish frost (色白起霜). After huiguo, the finished tea is slightly cooled, sifted of dust and yellow leaves and foreign inclusions are manually removed, after which it is hermetically packed in tin containers.

6. Organoleptic Characteristics:

• Dry leaf appearance: Characteristic “coiled flower” shape (盘花卷曲) — granules that are not perfectly round but tightly rolled. The tea resembles miniature coils or spirals. The surface is covered with light whitish “frost” (披霜, pīshuāng), under which intense emerald-green color shows through. Granule size is uniform, structure dense and neat (紧结匀净).
• Dry leaf aroma: Clean, fresh, with distinct chestnut tone (栗香, lìxiāng). Tea from the glacial belt of Fuzhi Mountain may have the so-called “cold aroma” (冷香, lěngxiāng) — a subtle mineral note of coolness.
• Liquor aroma: Intense and rich (浓爽, nóngshuǎng). Chestnut tone dominates, complemented by clean “green” freshness. In the best batches, the aroma is high and lasting.
• Taste: Dense, rich (醇厚, chúnhòu), simultaneously fresh and brisk (鲜爽, xiānshuǎng). The taste shows concentrated thickness (浓醇, nóngchún), due to dense rolling: the tea opens gradually, releasing substances slowly. Returning sweetness (huí gān) (回甘) — rapid and pronounced. Bitterness and astringency are minimal with proper brewing.
• Liquor color: Yellow-green, bright and clear (黄明清澈, huáng míng qīngchè), with light luster.
• Spent leaves (wet leaves): Tender yellow color (嫩黄, nènhuáng), leaves open in whole “bouquets” (成朵, chéng duǒ), bud tips are clearly visible (芽锋显露). Leaf structure testifies to quality hand processing without excessive mechanical impact.

7. Chemical Composition:

• Polyphenols (茶多酚): Content in dry leaf approximately 18–22% — moderate for green tea, which explains the relatively low bitterness and astringency. Main catechins: EGCG, ECG, EGC, EC. Antioxidant activity of Hui Bai catechins, according to sources, is 10 times higher than the analogous indicator of vitamin E.
• Amino acids (氨基酸): Due to high-altitude position, frequent fogs and significant temperature variation, free amino acid content is elevated — for spring harvest highest grade ≥ 4%. L-theanine (L-茶氨酸) predominates, providing characteristic “fresh sweetness” and relaxing effect.
• Caffeine (咖啡碱): Typical level for green teas — around 2.5–3.5% dry weight. Synergy of caffeine and L-theanine provides gentle, even stimulation without sharp excitation.
• Vitamins: Present are vitamin C (ascorbic acid), B vitamins (B₁, B₂), vitamin E, vitamin K. Vitamin C is partially preserved due to minimal oxidation during production.
• Mineral substances: Fluorine (content about 200 ppm, which promotes dental enamel protection), potassium, zinc, manganese, selenium (trace element characteristic of glacial belt soils of Fuzhi Mountain).
• Essential oils and aromatic compounds: Chestnut aroma is formed by pyrazines and furan compounds formed during the prolonged huiguo process. “Cold aroma” of tea from glacial soils may be related to increased content of terpene alcohols (linalool, geraniol).

8. Health Properties:

• Antioxidant protection: High catechin content, especially EGCG, provides effective neutralization of free radicals and protection of cells from oxidative stress.
• Gentle stimulation and concentration: The combination of caffeine and L-theanine gives even, calm surge of clarity without anxiety — an effect often described as “clear mind.”
• Metabolic support: Catechins, particularly EGCG, promote acceleration of lipid metabolism and may contribute to normalization of blood cholesterol levels.
• Dental protection: Elevated fluorine content (about 200 ppm) suppresses activity of caries-causing bacteria and strengthens dental enamel.
• Digestive support: Moderate tannins stimulate peristalsis and secretion of digestive juices. The tea is well-suited to accompany meals.
• Cardiovascular system: Polyphenols promote vascular elasticity and may reduce atherosclerosis risk.
• Immune strengthening: Vitamin C and polyphenols together have a general strengthening effect.
• Contraindications: Not recommended to drink on empty stomach due to possible gastric mucosa irritation by tannins. With increased caffeine sensitivity, better to consume in the first half of the day.

9. Brewing:

• Water temperature: 80–90°C. Highest grades (特级) open better at 80–85°C; use of boiling water is highly undesirable — it destroys chlorophyll and leads to yellowing of liquor and appearance of coarse bitterness.
• Tea quantity: 3 g per 150 ml (1:50 ratio). For gaiwan in gongfu style: 5–6 g per 100–120 ml.
• Teaware: Glass tumbler (玻璃杯, bōlí bēi) — optimal choice, allowing observation of gradual granule opening. Porcelain gàiwǎn (盖碗) for gongfu brewing. Glass or porcelain teapot.
• Process:
  1. Warm teaware with hot water, drain.
  2. Add tea. For glass tumbler, the “segmented brewing” method (分段冲泡, fēnduàn chōngpào) is recommended: first pour one-third volume of water, wait 20–30 seconds, then fill completely.
  3. First steeping — 30 seconds; when brewing in tumbler, can drink without waiting for complete opening of all granules (otherwise liquor may become astringent).
  4. From second to fourth steeping, increase time by 10 seconds each time.
  5. Number of steepings: 4–6, resistant to brewing due to dense rolling. In gongfu style — up to 6–8 steepings of 10–20 seconds with gradual lengthening.
  6. Tea from the glacial belt of Fuzhi Mountain is well-suited for cold brewing (冷泡, lěng pào): 3–5 g per 500 ml cold water, steeping 4–8 hours in refrigerator.
• Important: Finished liquor is recommended to be consumed within 30–60 minutes — prolonged standing leads to excessive astringency and loss of aroma freshness.

10. Storage:

• Conditions: Airtight packaging (preferably foil or vacuum bag inside tin or pewter canister). Protection from light, moisture, foreign odors and heat.
• Temperature: Optimally — refrigerator, 0–5°C with strict sealing. For current consumption (within 1–2 months), cool dark place at room temperature is acceptable.
• Storage period: Most expressive taste — in first 6–12 months after production. New tea is recommended to be aged 10–15 days in closed packaging at room temperature for “removing fire” (褪火气, tuì huǒqì) before consumption.
• Practical advice: Don’t open the main storage canister frequently. Better to set aside a 1–2 week supply in a separate small container, and keep the main volume untouched.

11. Price and Counterfeits:

• Price category: Wide range depending on grade. Highest grade (特级, before Guyu, one bud — one leaf) — from 800 yuan per 500 g and higher. Medium grade (一级) — 300–600 yuan. Standard (二级) — 100–300 yuan. Price depends significantly on specific producer and proximity of plantation to historic core (Quangang and Shangwushan villages).
• How to avoid counterfeits:
  • Shape verification: Genuine Hui Bai has unique “coiled disc” shape — not perfectly round (unlike Pingshui Zhucha), but “seemingly round but not round,” with distinct whitish frost. If granules are too even and shiny — this is most likely ordinary pearl tea.
  • Aroma assessment: Authentic chestnut tone (栗香) forms only with proper multi-hour huiguo. Imitations often smell “roasted” or grassy.
  • Liquor verification: Should be yellow-green, clear and bright. Cloudy or too dark liquor indicates raw material substitution or technology violation.
  • Spent leaves assessment: Leaves should open in whole “bouquets” with visible bud tips. Coarse, torn leaves — sign of mechanical processing.
  • Price vigilance: Tea offered as “Shengzhou Hui Bai highest grade” at price below 500 yuan per jin is highly likely to be counterfeit or raw material substitution from neighboring regions.

12. Interesting Facts:

• Most tea history specialists believe that Hui Bai served as prototype for the famous Pingshui Zhucha — one of China’s first export green teas, supplied to Europe through Ningbo port from the Kangxi era (1662–1722). Pingshui Zhucha evolved toward dense round rolling, while Hui Bai preserved the more archaic form, becoming a kind of “living fossil” of Zhejiang tea tradition.
• The huiguo process lasting 3–4 hours with gradual temperature reduction from 100°C to 30°C has no analogues among other green teas — this is one of the longest continuous manual operations in Chinese tea production.
• Quangang Village is located on ancient glacial deposits of Mount Fuzhi, whose age is estimated at tens of thousands of years. The unique “ash” soils of the glacial belt give the tea its characteristic “cold aroma,” not found in teas from other Zhejiang regions.
• The village name changed repeatedly: Qiángǎng (前岗/前冈) → Quángǎng (泉岗, from 2003 after administrative merger). Along with the village, the tea name changed, which spawned about ten different Chinese writing variants, becoming the subject of separate philological research.

13. Comparison with Other Green Teas:

• Píngshuǐ Zhūchá (平水珠茶, Píngshuǐ Zhūchá): Closest “relative” and probably descendant of Hui Bai. Main difference — Zhucha is rolled into perfectly even balls, while Hui Bai — into less regular “disc-spirals” with whitish frost. Zhucha was historically produced for export and has a more standardized but less nuanced profile; Hui Bai — tea for connoisseurs, with more pronounced chestnut aroma and depth of taste.
• Xī Hú Lǒng Jìng (西湖龙井, Xīhú Lóngjǐng): Both are premium Zhejiang green teas, but technologically they are opposites: Long Jing — flat, pressed in wok, with bean-chestnut aroma and “oily” texture. Hui Bai — round-rolled, with denser, more concentrated body and slow opening.
• Bì Luò Chún (碧螺春, Bìluóchūn): The spiral rolling of Bi Luo Chun and round rolling of Hui Bai — two different approaches to shaping. Bi Luo Chun is lighter and more delicate, with fruity-floral aroma; Hui Bai — denser, richer, with chestnut tone and higher steeping resistance.
• Yúnwù Chá (云雾茶, Yúnwù Chá): Teas of the “cloud-mist” category (for example, Lushan Yunwu, Tiantaishan Yunwucha) also grow in high cloud conditions and share with Hui Bai elevated amino acid content. However, Yunwu usually have more straight or needle-like form and less dense rolling, giving a lighter, “airy” profile.

In Conclusion:

Shengzhou Hui Bai is a tea for those who value in green tea not lightness and airiness, but depth and concentration. Its dense granules, covered with whitish frost, open in the cup unhurriedly, steeping by steeping releasing rich chestnut aroma and thick, fresh taste with powerful returning aftertaste. Behind each granule — multi-hour manual labor of a master standing at an inclined wok; behind each note of cold aroma — glacial soils of Mount Fuzhi and three hundred days of fog per year. This is one of the last “living” representatives of the archaic Zhejiang tradition of round green teas — a tea with history, character and its own face, which deserves much more attention than it receives outside its small homeland.