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Shuǐ Jīn Guī

Shuǐ jīn guī · 水金龟

The production of Shui Jin Gui is a complex process requiring great skill. It includes both traditional stages of oolong tea production and features inherent to Wuyi oolongs, particularly **prolonged charcoal roasting**.

  • Type: Heavily oxidized oolong (dark oolong), usually with medium or heavy roasting.
  • Category: Famous Teas of China, one of the “Four Great Bushes” (四大名枞, Sì Dà Míng Cōng) of Wuyi Mountains.
  • Origin: China, Fújiàn Province (福建, Fújiàn), Wǔyí Mountains (武夷山, Wǔyí Shān), Wuyishan City. Traditionally, the best tea is considered to be grown in the protected zone “Zheng Yan” (正岩, Zhèng Yán) - “True Rock Core”.
  • Geographic coordinates: 27°43’ North latitude, 117°41’ East longitude.

2. History and Cultural Significance:

  • History: The history of Shui Jin Gui spans several centuries, but the exact time of its appearance is unknown. It is believed to have been known during the Qing dynasty (1644-1912).

  • Legend: A legend is associated with the tea’s name. Once during a heavy downpour, a stream of water washed a tea bush from the top of a cliff into a crevice at its base. Monks from the local monastery discovered this bush and, after tasting tea prepared from its leaves, were amazed by its taste and aroma. They named the tea “Shui Jin Gui” - “Golden Water Turtle,” as the bush was washed away by water (“Shui”), found in a crevice resembling a turtle shell (“Gui”), and possessed valuable, “golden” qualities.

  • Name:

    • “Shui” (水) - water. According to one version, connected to the legend of the tea’s origin.
    • “Jin” (金) - gold, golden. Indicates the tea’s value, as well as the golden color of the liquor.
    • “Gui” (龟) - turtle. Also refers to the legend, and possibly to the shape of the leaves or the place of growth (a crevice resembling a shell).
  • Cultural significance: Shui Jin Gui is one of the most revered and respected Wuyi oolongs. It is valued for its unique “rock” character (“rock rhyme (yán yùn)”), rich taste, intense aroma and is considered a tea of the highest quality.

3. Botanical Description and Raw Material:

  • Cultivar: For the production of Shui Jin Gui, the tea bush cultivar of the same name is used - Shuǐ Jīn Guī (水金龟, shuǐ jīn guī). This cultivar is distinguished by:
    • Medium-sized leaves: Shui Jin Gui leaves are medium-sized, oval-shaped.
    • Dark green leaf color: The leaves have a rich dark green color.
    • Dense leaf texture: The leaf blade is dense, leathery.
    • Prominent veins: The veins are clearly visible on the leaves.
  • Harvest: Harvesting occurs in spring, usually in late April - early May.
  • Harvest standard: A bud and two to three upper leaves are picked.
  • Raw material requirements: High, only healthy, undamaged leaves are used.

4. Terroir and Cultivation:

  • Wuyi Mountains: A unique mountain range composed of red sandstone. The mountains are cut by gorges, covered with forests, with many rivers, waterfalls and mists. These very conditions form the famous “rock” character of Wuyi oolongs.
  • Growing altitude: Tea gardens are located at an altitude of 500-1000 meters above sea level, and sometimes higher.
  • Soils: The calling card of Wuyishan is its unique soils (“Zheng Yan” - soils of the “True Rock Core”). Red soils, rich in minerals, with inclusions of sandstone and gravel. They drain well and give the tea a characteristic “mineral” taste, called “rock rhyme (yán yùn)” (岩韵, yányùn) - “melody of the rocks” or “rock melody”.
  • Climate: Subtropical monsoon, with warm winters and hot summers. High humidity, abundant precipitation, frequent mists that shelter the tea bushes from the scorching sun and contribute to the accumulation of aromatic substances in the leaves.
  • “Zheng Yan” (正岩, Zhèng Yán): “True Rock Core” - the heart of the reserve, where the best, “canonical” Shui Jin Gui is believed to be produced. These are narrow gorges with steep cliffs, where tea bushes grow in crevices, on small plots of land.
  • “Ban Yan” (半岩, Bàn Yán): “Half-rock” - the territory around “Zheng Yan”, where growing conditions are slightly less extreme.
  • “Zhou Cha” (洲茶, Zhōu Chá): “Flatland tea” - tea grown on flat areas outside the reserve.

5. Production Technology:

The production of Shui Jin Gui is a complex process requiring great skill. It includes both traditional stages of oolong tea production and features inherent to Wuyi oolongs, particularly prolonged charcoal roasting.

  • Harvest (采摘 - cǎi zhāi): Described above.
  • Withering (萎凋 - wěidiāo): Picked leaves are spread outdoors (sun or shade withering) or indoors for several hours. The withering process can be quite lengthy.
  • Shaking (摇青 - yáo qīng): Leaves are gently shaken and stirred on bamboo trays to initiate the oxidation process. This stage is conducted several times with breaks for leaf “rest”.
  • Oxidation (发酵 - fājiào): The oxidation process that occurs during shaking and leaf “rest”. Shui Jin Gui belongs to heavily oxidized oolongs, but the degree of oxidation may vary depending on the producer.
  • Kill-green (杀青 - shā qīng): High-temperature pan-firing to stop the oxidation process.
  • Rolling (揉捻 - róuniǎn): Leaves are shaped into longitudinally twisted strips.
  • Drying (烘干 - hōnggān): Preliminary drying to remove moisture.
  • Charcoal roasting (焙火 - bèihuǒ): One of the key stages in the production of Wuyi oolongs, including Shui Jin Gui. The tea is slowly roasted over smoldering charcoal in special baskets. This process can last several hours or even days, and the temperature and roasting time are carefully controlled by the master. Charcoal roasting gives Shui Jin Gui its characteristic “smoky” aroma and “fiery” taste, and also contributes to its further maturation during storage. The degree of roasting can vary from medium to heavy.
  • Sorting (分级 - fēnjí): The finished tea is sorted by size and quality.
  • Rest: After roasting, the tea “rests” for some time so that the taste and aroma balance out.
  • Re-roasting: Sometimes a repeated, lighter roasting is conducted.

6. Organoleptic Characteristics:

  • Dry leaf appearance: Large, longitudinally twisted leaves, dark brown, almost black in color, with a reddish or golden sheen. The leaves are dense, strong, oily in appearance.
  • Dry leaf aroma: Rich, multifaceted, with notes of “fire” (roasting), woody, spicy, fruity (dried fruits) and floral nuances. Notes of chocolate, caramel, nuts may be present. The characteristic “rock” aroma (“rock rhyme (yán yùn)”) is evident.
  • Liquor aroma: Deep, enveloping, with dominant notes of roasting, dried fruits, spices, with hints of chocolate, nuts, sometimes with a light acidity.
  • Taste: Very rich, intense, dense, viscous, with light astringency and noble bitterness that quickly transforms into a long, sweet aftertaste. The bouquet contains notes of “fire” (roasting), woody, spicy, chocolate, caramel, fruity (prunes, dried apricots, raisins), nutty, floral and mineral (“rock”) nuances.
  • Liquor color: From dark amber to reddish-brown, cognac-colored, transparent, clear, with an oily sheen.
  • Spent leaves (wet leaves): Whole, dense, elastic leaves of dark brown color with a reddish tint, unfold during brewing.

7. Chemical Composition:

Shui Jin Gui, like other Wuyi oolongs, is rich in:

  • Polyphenols: High content of polyphenols, including catechins and theaflavins, thearubigins.
  • Amino acids: Contains various amino acids, including L-theanine.
  • Alkaloids: Caffeine, theobromine, theophylline.
  • Essential oils: Responsible for the rich and multifaceted aroma.
  • Vitamins: C, B group, E, K.
  • Minerals: Potassium, fluorine, magnesium, manganese, iron, selenium.

8. Health Properties:

  • Tonic effect: Shui Jin Gui has a pronounced tonic effect, invigorates, clears the mind, increases performance and concentration.
  • Warming action: This tea perfectly warms in cold weather.
  • Digestive improvement: Stimulates digestion, promotes food absorption, especially fatty foods.
  • Antioxidant action: Protects cells from free radical damage, slows aging processes.
  • Cardiovascular system: May help reduce “bad” cholesterol levels, strengthen blood vessel walls, normalize blood pressure.
  • Toxin elimination: Promotes cleansing the body of waste and toxins.
  • Mood elevation: Shui Jin Gui gives a sense of harmony, tranquility and joy.

9. Brewing:

  • Water temperature: 90-95°C (boiling water is not recommended).

  • Tea amount: 5-7 grams per 150-200 ml of water.

  • Teaware: Gaiwan (traditional Chinese cup with lid) or Yixing clay teapot are ideal. Yixing clay is porous and “breathes” well, allowing the tea to fully unfold. A Yixing clay teapot “accumulates” the tea’s aroma, so it is recommended to use it only for Wuyi oolongs.

  • Process:

    1. Warming the teaware: Rinse the gaiwan or teapot with boiling water to warm the vessel and prepare it for brewing.
    2. Tea rinse (quick rinse): Place the tea in the gaiwan, pour a small amount of hot water and immediately drain the water. This stage allows washing dust from the leaves and “awakening” the tea, preparing it for unfolding.
    3. First brewing: Pour hot water (90-95°C) over the tea and steep for 1-3 minutes. The first brewing time can be short, about 30-60 seconds, especially if the tea is of good quality.
    4. Pour the liquor into cups: Completely drain the liquor from the gaiwan or teapot into a fairness cup (cháhǎi), then pour into cups. This is necessary so that all cups receive liquor of the same strength.
    5. Subsequent brewings: Shui Jin Gui can be brewed multiple times (5-7 times, sometimes more), gradually increasing the steeping time by 30-60 seconds with each subsequent infusion. With each infusion, the taste and aroma of the tea will change, revealing new facets.

Important nuances:

  • Don’t oversteep: Too long steeping can make the tea taste astringent and bitter.
  • Listen to the tea: Be guided by your sensations and adjust the brewing time depending on the desired strength of the liquor.
  • Observe the tea: Pay attention to the liquor color, aroma, unfolding of the tea leaf. This will help you better understand the tea’s character and select the optimal brewing method.

10. Storage:

Shui Jin Gui, especially heavily roasted specimens, is less demanding of storage conditions than green or lightly oxidized oolongs. Nevertheless, to preserve its rich taste and aroma, it is recommended to:

  • Location: Store tea in a dry, dark, cool place, without sharp temperature fluctuations.
  • Container: Use airtight containers, the best options are:
    • Ceramic or porcelain jars: They preserve the tea’s aroma well and do not affect its taste.
    • Clay jars: Also suitable, but make sure they have no foreign odors.
    • Metal (tin) cans: Acceptable, but ensure they are food-grade.
    • Dense paper bags: Suitable for short-term storage.
  • Tea enemies: Avoid exposing tea to:
    • Direct sunlight: It destroys beneficial substances and deteriorates aroma.
    • Moisture: Tea can become damp and moldy.
    • Foreign odors: Tea easily absorbs odors, so store it separately from spices, coffee, fish and other strongly scented products.

11. Price and Counterfeits (continued):

Shui Jin Gui is an expensive tea, especially if it originates from the protected “Zheng Yan” zone. Its price can vary within very wide limits, from several tens of dollars per 100 grams to several hundred dollars for the same weight, and sometimes much more, depending on:

  • Origin: Tea from the protected “Zheng Yan” zone (“True Rock Core”) is valued much higher than “Ban Yan” (“Half-rock”) or “Zhou Cha” (“Flatland tea”). The most prestigious and expensive is tea from specific, particularly famous gorges and places in “Zheng Yan”.
  • Raw material quality: Whether select buds and young leaves are used or more mature raw material.
  • Producer’s skill: The experience and reputation of the tea master who produced the tea significantly affects the price.
  • Degree and quality of roasting: Complex, multi-stage charcoal roasting performed by an experienced master significantly increases the tea’s cost.
  • Tea age: Some connoisseurs prefer aged Shui Jin Gui, which acquires new flavor nuances over time.
  • Rarity: Some rare varieties or blends can be very expensive.
  • Demand: High demand for Shui Jin Gui also affects its price.

Due to the high price and popularity of Shui Jin Gui, unfortunately, many counterfeits and imitations are present in the market. How to avoid counterfeits:

  • Buy only from verified sellers: Look for specialized tea shops with good reputations that value their customers and can provide reliable information about the tea’s origin, harvest year, producer. They should also guarantee its authenticity and quality.
  • Beware of prices that are too low: Suspiciously low prices are almost always a sure sign of counterfeits. Genuine Shui Jin Gui cannot be cheap. Remember, miracles don’t happen.
  • Carefully examine the appearance: Pay attention to the shape, color, integrity of the leaves. They should correspond to the description given above. The presence of many broken leaves, dust, foreign impurities is a sign of low quality or counterfeiting.
  • Evaluate the aroma: Dry tea should have a rich, complex aroma with characteristic notes of roasting, dried fruits, spices. Avoid tea with weak, unexpressive or foreign smells. Artificial flavoring, sometimes used by unscrupulous sellers, usually betrays itself with an overly sharp, unnatural smell.
  • Check the liquor and spent leaves: The liquor color should be from dark amber to reddish-brown, transparent, with an oily sheen. The spent leaves should consist of whole, elastic leaves of dark brown color.
  • Be especially careful when buying Shui Jin Gui from “Zheng Yan”: Due to limited production volume and high demand, tea from this zone is most often counterfeited.

12. Interesting Facts:

  • “Golden Water Turtle”: The tea’s name is not only shrouded in legend, but is also probably connected to the place of its original discovery - a crevice in a rock resembling a turtle shell, where, according to legend, a stream of water washed the tea bush.
  • Tea for connoisseurs: Shui Jin Gui is a tea that requires certain experience and preparation to fully appreciate its complex taste and aroma.
  • Long storage: Some tea lovers prefer to age Shui Jin Gui for several years so that the taste becomes even softer and deeper.

13. Comparison with other rock oolongs:

  • Dà Hóng Páo (大红袍, Dà Hóng Páo - Big Red Robe): Perhaps the most famous Wuyi oolong. Unlike Shui Jin Gui, which is valued for its “rock” character and mineral notes, in Da Hong Pao more diverse flavor shades come to the forefront: caramel, fruits, flowers, depending on the blend and producer.
  • Ròu Guì (肉桂, Ròu Guì - Cinnamon): Another famous Wuyi oolong. Rou Gui is known for its bright, spicy aroma with a dominant cinnamon note. Shui Jin Gui has a more subtle, complex aroma where spicy notes are not so clearly expressed.
  • Tiě Luóhàn (铁罗汉, Tiě Luóhàn - Iron Arhat): Also produced in the Wuyi Mountains. Tie Luohan typically has a more powerful, astringent taste with pronounced mineral notes, while Shui Jin Gui is more refined and sweetish.
  • Bái Jí Guǎn (白鸡冠, Bái Jīguān - White Cockscomb): A rare Wuyi oolong, differs from Shui Jin Gui with lighter leaves and floral-fruity aroma.

In conclusion:

Shui Jin Gui is an exquisite and rare rock oolong, one of the “Four Great Bushes” of the Wuyi Mountains. Its rich, intense taste with notes of roasting, dried fruits, spices and minerals, as well as its deep, enveloping aroma with “rock” undertones can conquer the heart of even the most sophisticated tea connoisseur. This tea is a true work of tea art, the result of a harmonious combination of unique terroir, centuries-old traditions and the highest craftsmanship. To try genuine Shui Jin Gui means to touch a legend, to discover the standard of quality in the world of rock oolongs and to receive unforgettable impressions from acquaintance with this amazing tea. This is tea for special occasions, for unhurried, thoughtful tea drinking, when you want to immerse yourself in a world of contemplation and enjoy every sip, every nuance of taste and aroma.