Songluocha

Songluocha (松萝茶, Sōngluó chá) is a historic green tea from Mount Songluoshan in Xiuning County, Anhui Province, occupying a special place in the history of world tea cultivation: it was here, during the Ming era, that a Buddhist monk nicknamed “Dafang Heshang” (大方和尚, Dàfāng Héshàng — “Monk Dafang”) first developed the technology of high-temperature pan-firing in a wok (炒青, chǎoqīng), replacing the ancient method of steaming (蒸青, zhēngqīng). This invention revolutionized tea production and became the foundation for all subsequent pan-fired green teas of China — from Longjing to Biluochun. Songluocha is literally the “great-grandfather” of pan-fired green teas.

1. Classification and Origin:

• Type: Green tea (unoxidized). Belongs to pan-fired green teas (炒青绿茶, chǎoqīng lǜchá) — historically the first type of pan-fired green teas in China.

• Category: National geographical indication product (国家地理标志保护产品, 2012). Historic tribute tea (贡茶) of the Qing era. In 2024, included in the geographical indication promotion list of the “Belt and Road” initiative.

• Origin: China, Ānhuī Province (安徽, Ānhuī), Xiūníng County (休宁县, Xiūníng Xiàn). The geographical indication zone covers 21 townships and villages of the county, including Hǎiyáng (海阳镇), Wan’an (万安镇) and Qiyunshan (齐云山镇).

• Terroir core: Mount Songluoshan (松萝山, Sōngluó Shān) — a primeval forest zone at altitudes of 600–700 m, in the area of glacial deposits (冰碛岩地貌).

• Geographic coordinates: Approximately 29°46′ North latitude, 118°12′ East longitude.

2. History and Cultural Significance:

• History: Songluocha is one of the few teas whose history is connected with a specific technological invention that changed the entire course of tea production in China.

  During the Hongzhi period (弘治, 1488–1505) of the Ming era, Buddhist monk Dàfāng (大方, Dàfāng), living on Mount Songluoshan, developed the method of high-temperature pan-firing of fresh tea leaves in a cast iron wok — chaoqing (炒青). Before this, for centuries in China, the method of steaming (蒸青, zhēngqīng), inherited from the Tang and Song eras, had reigned supreme. Pan-firing proved to be a technological breakthrough: it provided more lasting aroma, better preservation and a more diverse flavor palette. From Mount Songluoshan, the “chaoqing” technology spread throughout Anhui Province, and then throughout all of China, becoming the foundation for the production of Longjing, Biluochun, Maofeng and dozens of other teas.

  Míng author Féng Shíkě (冯时可, Féng Shíkě) in “Tea Records” (茶录, Chálù) noted: “In former times there was no tea at all in Huizhou prefecture; only recently appeared Songluo tea — and it became the most fashionable” (徽郡向无茶，近出松萝茶最为时尚). Poet Zhèng Bǎnqiáo (郑板桥, Zhèng Bǎnqiáo) dedicated a verse to the tea: “A pot of fresh tea — I brew Songluo” (一壶新茗泡松萝).

  In the Qing era, Songluocha became “gongcha” (贡茶) — imperial tribute tea. In 1745, the tea was transported across the ocean on the Swedish merchant ship “Göteborg” (哥德堡号, Gēdébǎo Hào) — this is one of the first documented appearances of Chinese green tea in Europe.

  In 2012, Songluocha received national geographical indication protection. In 2024, it was included in the geographical indication promotion list of the “Belt and Road” initiative — a symbolic return to the international arena.

• Name:

  • “Songluo” (松萝) — “Pine vines” (or “Pine and dodder”): a poetic description of the mountain landscape covered with pines and climbing plants.
  • “Cha” (茶) — “tea”.

• Cultural significance: Songluocha is a “bifurcation point” in the history of world tea: the invention of pan-firing technology on Mount Songluoshan divided tea history into “before” (the era of steaming) and “after” (the era of pan-firing). Without Songluocha, there would be no Longjing, Biluochun, Maofeng — the entire modern palette of Chinese green teas. This tea is living testimony to how the innovation of one monk on a mountain slope in Anhui changed the taste of an entire civilization.

3. Botanical Description and Raw Material:

• Variety / Cultivar: The main cultivar is Songluozhong (松萝种, Sōngluó Zhǒng) — a local indigenous small-leaf variety of Camellia sinensis var. sinensis of seed propagation. Distinguished by large, fleshy leaves, strong shoots and abundant down. Additionally used are Zhūyèqí (槠叶齐, Zhūyèqí) and Huángshān Dàyèzhǒng (黄山大叶种) — medium-leaf and large-leaf cultivars well suited for pan-fired green tea production.

• Picking: Early spring picking. For the highest grade (特级) — whole buds or one bud with one leaf. For first grade — one bud with two leaves in the initial stage of opening. For second grade — one bud with two opened leaves.

• Raw material requirements: Tender, uniform shoots, fresh and undamaged. Processing — on the day of picking.

4. Terroir and Cultivation Features:

• Growing altitude: 600–800 meters above sea level. The core — primeval forest zone on Mount Songluoshan.

• Climate: Average annual temperature — 16–18°C, annual precipitation — 1500–2000 mm, relative humidity — over 78%. Year-round cloudiness and diffused light. Forest coverage — over 60%.

• Soils: Unique feature — soils formed on glacial deposits (冰碛岩, bīngjī yán). These “dark sandy” soils (乌沙土, wūshā tǔ) have pH 4.5–6.5, enriched with selenium (硒, xī) and other microelements. Organic matter content — not less than 1.0%. Glacial soils are a geological rarity, giving the tea a unique mineral profile.

• Ecosystem: Mount Songluoshan is surrounded by primeval forest. Tea gardens are integrated into the natural forest ecosystem, without industrial pollution.

5. Production Technology:

The technology of Songluocha is a direct heritage of Monk Dafang’s invention. The foundation is high-temperature pan-firing (杀青) at 220–280°C, significantly higher than most modern green teas. This is the “signature” feature of the Songluo school.

• Picking (采摘 — cǎi zhāi): Hand picking of tender shoots in spring.

• Spreading and withering (摊放 — tānfàng): Raw material is spread in traditional bamboo containers for brief withering.

• “Kill-green” / Fixation (杀青 — shāqīng): High-temperature pan-firing at 220–280°C — the key stage, “fixing” the aroma (锁香, suǒxiāng). It is precisely this extremely high temperature that forms the deep, “roasted” aromatics characteristic of Songluocha.

• Rolling (揉捻 — róuniǎn): Shaping of tea leaves, release of cellular juices.

• Pan-firing of wet semi-finished product (滚/炒湿胚 — gǔn / chǎo shī pēi): Additional pan-firing to compact the structure.

• Sifting and spreading (分筛摊晾 — fēnshāi tānliáng): Separation of fractions and intermediate cooling.

• Final drying (足干 — zúgān): Bringing to stable condition.

• Aroma development (提香 — tíxiāng): Final heating at 110–120°C over slow fire — “drawing out” white down to the surface and fixing the aroma.

6. Organoleptic Characteristics:

• Dry leaf appearance: Dense, tightly twisted shoots (条索紧卷匀壮), dark green color with oily luster (绿润油亮). In highest grades — abundant golden down (金毫显露). Shape — classic “strip” (条索形), without flat or granulated shaping. Varieties: strip (条形), needle (针形), twisted (卷曲形).

• Dry leaf aroma: High, lasting, “roasted” (高爽香, gāoshuǎng xiāng). Unique to Songluocha olive note (橄榄香, gǎnlǎn xiāng) — characteristic “smokiness” from high-temperature pan-firing, reminiscent of olive aroma. Orchid note (兰花香) is expressed in needle varieties.

• Liquor aroma: Rich, deep, with olive dominance. Orchid and chestnut overtones. Residual aroma in empty cup (冷杯留香) persists for more than 30 minutes — this is considered a quality marker.

• Taste: Dense and rich (浓厚, nónghòu) — polyphenol content ≥25% provides powerful “body”. Sweet and mellow (甘醇, gānchún) — pronounced returning sweetness. Slight cooling sensation (微带清凉感) — associated with selenium presence in soils.

• Liquor color: Bright green, clear and transparent (鲜绿明亮). In twisted varieties — more saturated.

• Spent leaves (wet leaves): Tender, elastic shoots, even green color. Leaf whole, without damage.

7. Chemical Composition:

Glacial soils enriched with selenium and high-temperature pan-firing create a unique profile:

• Polyphenols (catechins): Content — ≥25% of dry mass — above average for green teas. Provides powerful antioxidant potential and pronounced taste structure.

• Amino acids (including L-theanine): Content sufficient for forming sweetness and mellowness, balancing high polyphenol content.

• Alkaloids: Caffeine — significant content. Provides pronounced tonic effect.

• Theaflavins (茶黄素, chá huángsù): Present in noticeable quantities — contribute to cholesterol level control.

• Selenium (硒, xī): Elevated content — result of growing on glacial selenium-containing soils. Selenium is a powerful antioxidant and immunomodulator.

• Vitamins: Vitamin C, B-group vitamins.

• Minerals: Potassium, magnesium, zinc, manganese, iron, fluorine, selenium.

8. Health Properties:

• Digestive improvement (消食): Polyphenols stimulate fat breakdown with efficiency, according to research, twice as high as average green tea.

• Lipid profile control (去肥腻): Theaflavins suppress cholesterol synthesis.

• Cardiovascular system support (降三高): Catechins strengthen vascular elasticity, promote normalization of blood pressure and blood sugar levels.

• Antioxidant action: High content of polyphenols and selenium provides powerful protection against oxidative stress.

• Tonic effect: Caffeine provides vigor and concentration.

• Important: the listed properties are based on publicly available data and are not medical recommendations.

9. Brewing:

• Water temperature: 80–90°C (boiling water, cooled ~2 minutes).

• Tea amount: 3 g per 150 ml water (1:50 ratio).

• Vessel: Glass tumbler or white porcelain gaiwan.

• Process:

  1. Warm the vessel with hot water, drain.
  2. Add tea, pour water to 1/3, swirl — “open the aroma” (摇香).
  3. Add water to 7/10 of volume.
  4. Steep for 1–2 minutes.
  5. Tea withstands 3 full brewings.

• Note: freshly purchased Songluocha is recommended to be aged for about a month — during this time the “fiery” taste from high-temperature pan-firing disappears, and the characteristic olive note becomes softer and more harmonious. Residual aroma in empty cup (冷杯留香) for more than 30 minutes is a marker of authenticity and quality.

10. Storage:

• Store in airtight container, in dark, dry and cool place.
• Optimal temperature — 0–5°C (refrigerator), in airtight packaging.
• Storage period — up to 12–18 months under proper conditions.
• After opening — consume within 1–2 months.

11. Market and Price Range:

Songluocha is a tea with limited production from 21 townships of Xiuning County. The terroir core — the narrow primeval forest zone of Mount Songluoshan — further limits the volume of the best batches.

Price guidelines: highest grade (特级) — from 800 yuan per jin (500 g) and higher; first and second grades — significantly more affordable.

• How to avoid counterfeits:

  • Buy from verified sellers with geographical indication marking from Xiuning County.
  • Evaluate aroma: characteristic olive note is the “signature” of Songluocha. Absence of olive tone and presence of “caramel” smell — sign of low quality.
  • Check “cold cup”: residual aroma in empty cup should persist for more than 30 minutes. Quick dissipation — reason for doubt.
  • Evaluate appearance: dense, tightly twisted shoots with oily luster. Loose, dull leaf — sign of counterfeit.
  • Pay attention to price: suspiciously low price — sure sign of counterfeit.

12. Interesting Facts:

• Monk Dafang from Mount Songluoshan — inventor of “chaoqing” technology (炒青, pan-firing green leaves in wok). This Ming era invention became the most important technological innovation in tea production history after its inception, giving rise to all modern pan-fired green teas of China.

• In 1745, Songluocha was transported across two oceans on the Swedish merchant ship “Göteborg” (哥德堡号) — this is one of the first documented appearances of a specific variety of Chinese green tea in Europe. The ship sank off the Swedish coast, but part of the cargo was saved — and the tea still reached European consumers.

• Poet Zhèng Bǎnqiáo (郑板桥, 1693–1766) — one of the “Eight Eccentrics of Yangzhou”, calligrapher and painter — praised Songluocha in verse: “A pot of fresh tea — I brew Songluo” (一壶新茗泡松萝).

• Glacial soils (冰碛岩) of Mount Songluoshan — a geological rarity hundreds of millions of years old. Selenium contained in these soils naturally enriches the tea leaf, which is reflected in the characteristic cooling sensation in taste.

• Inclusion of Songluocha in the “Belt and Road” list in 2024 — symbolic return of tea to international trade routes it followed as early as the 18th century.

13. Comparison with other historic green teas of Anhui Province:

• Huángshān Máofēng (黄山毛峰): Baked (烘青) tea with “sparrow tongue” shape. Maofeng is more delicate and floral; Songluocha is denser, with pronounced olive note and higher polyphenol content.

• Lu’an Guāpiàn (六安瓜片): Flat “melon seeds” from pure leaves without buds. Guapian is more grassy; Songluocha is more “roasted” and mineral.

• Yǒngxī Huoqing (涌溪火青): Pearl tea from Jingxian County. Huoqing is granulated, with apricot liquor; Songluocha is twisted, with olive aroma.

• Tóngchéng Xiāohuà (桐城小花): From Tongcheng County. Light, floral, delicate. Songluocha is significantly more powerful and rich.

In conclusion:

Songluocha is a pioneering tea, a revolutionary tea. When Monk Dafang on Mount Songluoshan first threw fresh tea leaves into a red-hot wok instead of steaming them according to ancient custom, he didn’t just create a new taste — he changed the trajectory of an entire culture. Without this gesture, there would be no chestnut aroma of Longjing, no fruity spirals of Biluochun, no golden pearls of Yongxi Huoqing. Today’s Songluocha — dense, olive, mineral, with selenium coolness and thirty-minute resonance in an empty cup — is not just a beverage, but a tribute to the invention to which we owe the taste of all green tea in China.