Tàishùn sān bēi xiāng

Tàishùn Sān Bēi Xiāng is a regional green tea (绿茶) from Taishun County in southern Zhejiang Province, famous for its persistence: even after three infusions, the aroma remains expressive and full. This very property gave the tea its poetic name.

1. Classification and Origin:

• Type: Green tea (绿茶) (non-oxidized), chaiqing (炒青, chǎoqīng) category — processed by pan-firing method.
• Category: Regional famous tea with protected geographical indication; belongs to the “Wenlü” (温绿) group — green teas of Wenzhou, one of the three largest groups of green teas in China.
• Origin: China, Zhèjiāng Province (浙江, Zhèjiāng), Wēnzhōu Prefecture (温州, Wēnzhōu), Tàishùn County (泰顺, Tàishùn). The protected zone covers 36 townships and towns of the county, including Luoyang (罗阳), Baizhang (百丈), Liufeng (柳峰), Sixi (泗溪), Yayang (雅阳) and others — a total of 205 villages.
• Geographic coordinates: 27°17′–27°50′ North latitude, 119°37′–120°15′ East longitude.

2. History and Cultural Significance:

• History: Taishun County is located in the mountains in the far south of Zhejiang, on the border with Fujian Province, and has a centuries-old tea history. As early as the sixth year of the Chóngzhēn reign (明崇祯六年, 1633), the “Taishun County Gazetteer” (《泰顺县志》) recorded: “tea is everywhere in the mountains, but the best is in Sixi and Nanqiao.” During the Qing era, local teas “Huang Tang” (黄汤) and “Bai Hao Yin Zhen” (白毫银针) were supplied to the court as tribute tea (贡茶). In the period after the founding of the PRC, Tàishùn chaiqing became important raw material for blending export méichá (眉茶), which was supplied through Shanghai port to more than forty countries worldwide; for this, Taishun tea received the nickname “MSG of Zhejiang green tea” (浙江绿茶的「味精」 — “flavor enhancer”). In 1958, composer Zhōu Dafeng (周大风) created the famous “Tea Picking Song” (《采茶舞曲》, Cǎichá Wǔqǔ) in Taishun County, which spread throughout the country and in 2005 was adopted as the county anthem. Starting from the 1980s, local chaiqing began to be sold on the domestic market under the brand “San Bei Xiang” (三杯香). In 1996, the county held its first tea culture festival, and in 1999 the Tàishùn Tea Association (泰顺县茶业协会) was founded. In 2010, the Ministry of Agriculture of the PRC granted the tea the status of protected agricultural geographical indication. In 2019, the brand entered the “Catalog of Chinese Agricultural Brands” (中国农业品牌目录). In 2020, Tàishùn Sǎn Bèi Xiāng Chá was included in the first list of mutually protected geographical indications of the agreement between China and the European Union (中欧地理标志协定, PGI-CN-2737). In 2023, the traditional technology of its production was entered into the sixth registry of intangible cultural heritage objects of Zhejiang Province.

• Name: Sān Bēi Xiāng (三杯香) literally means “aroma of three cups”: the number “three” (三, sān) in this case conveys the idea of multiplicity and persistence — the tea reveals its full aroma even after the third and subsequent infusions. Tàishùn (泰顺) is the name of the county where it is produced.

• Cultural significance: Taishun is among the “Tea Homelands of China” (中国茶叶之乡) and “Homelands of Famous Teas of China” (中国名茶之乡), and is a national key county for tea production. The brand has repeatedly won gold awards at the International Tea Culture Festival and the Zhejiang Green Tea Exhibition. The tea was chosen as the official beverage for Diaoyutai (钓鱼台国宾馆) — the State Guest Palace of the PRC, and also represented China in the DEVNET pavilion at the Shanghai World Expo 2010. In 2022, the value of the regional brand was estimated at 19.14 billion yuan, and the tea itself was appointed as the official beverage of the XV Congress of the CCP of Zhejiang Province.

3. Botanical Description and Raw Material:

• Species: Camellia sinensis var. sinensis.
• Variety / Cultivar: The foundation consists of Tàishùn local population planting (泰顺本地群体种, Tàishùn běndì qúntǐzhǒng) — a genetically diverse group of small- and medium-leaf trees that have adapted to the local terroir over centuries through seed (sexual) reproduction. Such bushes are distinguished by high resistance to frost and diseases. Besides the local population, zoned small- and medium-leaf cultivars (中小叶优良茶树品种) are used, including Longjing 43 (龙井43) and Wūniú Zǎo (乌牛早), however the core of the brand is precisely the traditional population.
• Picking: The beginning of picking falls during the Qīngmíng period (清明, early April); spring picking is considered the best in quality, autumn occupies a middle position, summer is the most simple. For premium batches, early spring picking (mingqian, 明前) is applied.
• Picking standard: From one bud with one beginning-to-unfold leaf (一芽一叶初展) to one bud with three beginning-to-unfold leaves (一芽三叶初展) — depending on the grade. For mass batches the standard is one bud with two leaves (一芽二叶).
• Raw material requirements: Freshly picked leaves are placed in bamboo baskets and promptly delivered to production for immediate processing; overheating and mechanical damage are not permitted.

4. Terroir and Cultivation:

• Growing altitude: 150–1620 m above sea level; highest point — Baiyunjian Peak (白云尖, 1611.3 m). Main tea plantations are located at altitudes of 200–800 m, premium raw material is collected at altitudes above 800 m.
• Climate: Subtropical marine monsoon (亚热带海洋型季风气候). Average annual temperature 17.8 °C; average annual precipitation 1991.7 mm; 1759.2 hours of sunshine per year; frost-free period 242 days. Daily temperature fluctuations are significant, which promotes the accumulation of aromatic substances and amino acids.
• Microclimate: Average annual relative humidity 83%; frequent fogs and cloudiness (“nine mountains out of ten are covered by clouds”); air quality corresponds to the first class of national standard GB 3095.
• Soils: Red and yellow-brown soils (红壤、黄棕壤) predominate with organic matter content 1.0–4.33%, pH 4.5–6.5. Parent rock — Jurassic volcanic and Cretaceous volcanogenic-sedimentary formations. Soils are loose, well-drained, with inclusions of quartz gravel.
• Agricultural techniques: Tàishùn is a national ecological demonstration county (国家级生态示范区) with forest coverage of 75.6%. Tea gardens are managed according to ecological farming principles: organic fertilizers, integrated pest protection (biological, physical and agrotechnical methods), minimal application of pesticides in accordance with NY/T 5018. By 2009, the area of tea gardens was 6.5 万 mu (about 4333 hectares), annual production volume exceeded 3000 tons.

5. Production Technology:

The production technology is aimed at forming the characteristic “high persistent aroma with dense, soft taste” (香高味醇，经久耐泡). The main fixation method is pan-firing (炒青, chǎoqīng); final stages include both pan-firing and drying. The full cycle is regulated by standard DB3303/T35.5.

• Spreading and withering (摊青 — tānqīng): Freshly picked raw material is spread in a thin layer in a ventilated room for loss of part of moisture, equalization of leaf condition and beginning of formation of aromatic precursors.
• Fixation (杀青 — shāqīng): Key stage — pan-firing in an inclined iron pan (斜锅). In manual production, the master works with a bamboo tea broom (竹丝帚, zhúsī zhǒu) of different sizes: large — for coarse leaf, small — for tender. Movements combine tossing and steaming (抖闷结合), which ensures uniform stopping of oxidation without formation of raw grass smell.
• Rolling (揉捻 — róuniǎn): Opening of cell juice, formation of initial leaf structure and laying the foundation for extractiveness during brewing.
• Second stage drying (烘二青 — hōng èrqīng): Intermediate drying, reducing moisture before further processing.
• Third pan-firing (三青 — sānqīng / 炒三青): Additional stage of shaping and aroma development at medium temperature; the name “three” in the technological chain echoes with the name of the tea itself.
• Huiguo — final pan-firing (煇锅 — huīguō): Final stage of shaping and aromatization: the master brings the leaf to the desired form and fixes the chestnut-nutty profile under controlled heating.
• Máochá sorting (毛茶整理 — máochá zhěnglǐ): The finished semi-finished product is sorted by grades, substandard material is removed, and packaged.

In mechanized production, tea-firing machines (炒茶机) and drying apparatus (烘干机) are used, however the sequence of stages is preserved.

6. Organoleptic Characteristics:

• Dry leaf appearance: Finely twisted, dense shoots (细紧苗秀), uniform in size, with noticeable down on the tips (毫锋显露). Color — bright emerald-green with pronounced luster (色泽翠绿).
• Dry leaf aroma: Clean, fresh, with distinct chestnut note (栗香, lìxiāng), characteristic of quality chaiqing teas. In premium batches, delicate floral shades are present.
• Liquor aroma: High, persistent (高香持久), unfolds with chestnut tone with transition to gentle sweetness. Precisely the ability of aroma to persist through several infusions determines the brand identity.
• Taste: Dense, fresh and brisk (滋味鲜爽丰厚), with pronounced sweetness and oily texture. Bitterness and astringency are minimal with proper brewing. The sensation of taste “thickness” (味厚) is the result of high content of water-soluble extractive substances.
• Liquor color: Bright emerald-green, transparent and shining (汤色绿艳明亮).
• Spent leaves (wet leaves): Tender-green, fresh and lively (叶底嫩绿鲜活), uniform, with well-preserved shoots.

7. Chemical Composition:

• Polyphenols (茶多酚): Content is moderate for green teas of chaiqing type; catechins (EGCG, EGC, ECG) play the main role, providing antioxidant activity. High persistence during multiple brewing indicates a balanced ratio of polyphenols and protein complexes.
• Amino acids (氨基酸): According to sources, the content of amino acids (primarily L-theanine) in Taishun tea is elevated compared to average indicators for green teas of Zhejiang. Theanine is responsible for characteristic sweetness and sensation of freshness (鲜).
• Alkaloids: Caffeine (caffeine, theobromine, theophylline) is contained within typical limits for green tea (about 20–35 mg/g for caffeine). The synergy of caffeine and theanine provides gentle toning without sharp stimulation.
• Water-soluble extractive substances (水浸出物): Not less than 37% — a significant indicator explaining the “density” of taste and the tea’s ability to withstand multiple infusions.
• Essential oils and aromatic compounds: Chestnut aroma (栗香) is formed during pan-firing due to Maillard reactions and sugar caramelization; among key components are pyrazines, furfural, linalool.
• Vitamins: C, B₁, B₂, E, K — in quantities typical for non-oxidized teas.
• Minerals: Potassium, magnesium, manganese, zinc, fluorine, selenium (microelement content depends on specific site).
• Other indicators according to standard DB3303/T35.6: Dry leaf moisture ≤ 6.5%, crude fiber content ≤ 14.5%, ash content ≤ 6.5%.

8. Health Properties:

• Tonic effect: The combination of caffeine and L-theanine provides gentle, sustained increase in concentration and mental clarity without the characteristic coffee “crash” after an hour or two.
• Antioxidant action: Catechins (especially EGCG) neutralize free radicals, supporting cellular protection of the organism.
• Digestive support: Polyphenols stimulate gastrointestinal tract function, have mild antibacterial action.
• Cardiovascular system: Regular consumption of green tea is associated with beneficial effects on cholesterol levels and vascular elasticity.
• Immune support: Vitamin C and polyphenols contribute to general strengthening of the body’s defense forces.
• Metabolism: Green tea can support normal metabolism and contribute to body weight control.
• Cognitive functions: Theanine supports brain alpha rhythm, promoting a state of calm concentration.
• Individual sensitivity to caffeine should be considered; consumption on an empty stomach is not recommended due to tannins that can irritate gastric mucosa.

9. Brewing:

• Water temperature: 80–85 °C. More delicate raw material (special grades) allows 75–80 °C; too hot water destroys chlorophyll, the liquor yellows.
• Tea quantity: 3 g per 150 ml (1:50 ratio) for glass method; 5–7 g per 150–200 ml for gaiwan or teapot.
• Vessels: Glass tumbler (玻璃杯) — classic variant for Taishun tea: allows observing the “dance” of shoots. Porcelain gàiwǎn (盖碗) or porcelain teapot are suitable for more controlled brewing.
• Process:
  1. Warm the vessel with hot water and drain.
  2. Add tea.
  3. First infusion — 30 seconds, then drain and drink.
  4. Second–fourth infusions — increase time by 10–15 seconds with each subsequent one.
  5. The tea withstands 4–6 quality infusions (with gongfu method) or 2–3 full steeps in a glass.
  6. With European method: 2–3 minutes steeping; if bitter — reduce temperature or decrease leaf quantity.

10. Storage:

• Store in airtight opaque containers (aluminum foil, vacuum packaging, tightly closing tin can), protecting from light, moisture, foreign odors and temperature fluctuations.
• Optimal storage temperature — 0–5 °C (refrigerator) with strict sealing. Before opening, the package should be brought to room temperature to avoid condensation.
• New tea is recommended to be aged for about 15 days after production so that the “fire” note (褪火气) disappears.
• San Bei Xiang is most expressive in the first 6–12 months after production. Over time, the chestnut aroma weakens, taste freshness decreases.

11. Price and Counterfeits:

• The price range is wide: from affordable everyday batches (about 50–100 yuan per 250 g) to premium spring pickings of first grade (over 800 yuan per 500 g). Main price factors are picking season (mingqian and yuqian are more expensive), grade (shoot standard), growing altitude and producer reputation.
• How to avoid counterfeits:
  • Buy from verified suppliers with geographical indication marking (农产品地理标志) and Taishun Tea Association logo.
  • Evaluate appearance: authentic San Bei Xiang has dense, uniform, finely twisted shoots of emerald color with noticeable down.
  • Check aroma: characteristic chestnut note should be clean, without flavor of flavorings or burnt taste.
  • Evaluate liquor: bright green, transparent, with pronounced taste persisting for at least three infusions.
  • Be suspicious if tea is suspiciously cheap or sold under the “San Bei Xiang” brand without indication of specific producer and batch number.

12. Interesting Facts:

• The famous “Tea Picking Song” (《采茶舞曲》), which became one of the symbols of Chinese tea culture and the official anthem of Taishun County, was inspired precisely by local tea landscapes — composer Zhou Dafeng created it in 1958 during a creative assignment in Dongxi Township (东溪).
• Taishun chaiqing was long the “invisible hero” of the tea industry: for decades it served as an indispensable blending component for export meicha, and was called “MSG” (味精, “glutamate”) of Zhejiang green tea — so much did it improve the taste of any blend.
• Since 2020, Taishun San Bei Xiang has been included in the list of geographical indications mutually protected by China and the European Union (PGI-CN-2737), making it one of the few regional green teas of Zhejiang with international legal status.
• The local population planting (群体种) has been reproduced by seeds (有性繁殖) for several centuries, forming genetic diversity not characteristic of clonal plantations — each bush differs slightly from its neighbor, enriching the flavor palette.
• After San Bei Xiang was chosen as the official tea of the XV Congress of the CCP of Zhejiang Province in 2022, brand sales grew by 172% in a month.

13. Comparison with Other Green Teas:

• Ānjí Bái Chá (安吉白茶, Ānjí Báichá): Also a Zhejiang green tea, but from the Bai Ye Yi Hao variety — with high amino acid content and the most delicate umami profile. San Bei Xiang is significantly denser in body and has a pronounced chestnut note uncharacteristic of Anji.
• Zhèjiāng Sòng Zhèn (浙江松针, Zhèjiāng Sōngzhēn): Green tea in the form of pine needles from Zhejiang. Lighter, with predominance of grassy-coniferous notes; San Bei Xiang surpasses it in aroma persistence during multiple brewing.
• Xìnyáng Máo Jiān (信阳毛尖, Xìnyáng Máojiān): Famous chaiqing from Henan with dense down and high fresh aroma. Both teas belong to pan-fired green teas, however Mao Jian is distinguished by more pronounced astringency and “sharp” profile, while San Bei Xiang is softer and sweeter.
• Laoshan Lü Chá (崂山绿茶, Láoshān Lǜchá): Northern green tea from Shandong with characteristic “bean” taste. San Bei Xiang has a more southern, floral-chestnut character and better persistence in infusions.

In Conclusion:

Taishun San Bei Xiang is one of those teas that do not strive to impress from the first sip, but take with constancy and depth. Its chestnut aroma, dense fresh taste and rare persistence in infusions for green tea make it an ideal companion for daily tea drinking — reliable, even and invariably pleasant. Behind it stand centuries of mountain tradition, ecologically clean slopes of southern Zhejiang and genetic diversity of ancient population plantings, which become fewer each year. This tea does not require ceremonies — a simple glass tumbler with soft water at 80–85 °C will reveal its character fully. Give it three infusions — and you will understand why it is so named.