Tǎquán yún wù

Taquanyun Wu is a historical green tea from the southern part of Anhui Province, also known as “Gaofeng Yun Wu” (高峰云雾, Gāofēng Yún Wù — “cloud mist of the High Peak”). Its history stretches from the Eastern Jin era, when tea from Xuancheng was already presented to the court, through its flourishing during the Qing to near-complete oblivion during the Republican years — and rebirth in the 1950s. Taquanyun Wu is a tea with character: dense, aromatic, with a bright orchid note and deep aftertaste, born at an altitude of more than a thousand meters, where clouds literally touch the tea bushes.

1. Classification and Origin:

• Type: Green tea (non-oxidized), 烘青 (hongqing, hōngqīng — fixation followed by hot air drying). Belongs to the category of “special” (特制) hongqing green teas.
• Category: Historical famous tea (历史名茶, lìshǐ míngchá). Included among the “Ten Famous Teas of Anhui” (安徽十大名茶).
• Origin: China, Ānhuī Province (安徽省, Ānhuī Shěng), Xuānchéng City (宣城市, Xuānchéng Shì), Xuānzhōu District (宣州区, Xuānzhōu Qū), Xīkǒu Town (溪口镇, Xīkǒu Zhèn). The core production area is the northwestern slope of Gaofengshan Mountain (高峰山, Gāofēng Shān), villages of Tǎquán (塔泉), Zhangwan (张湾), Zhuangwutai (庄屋台), as well as Baokeng (鲍坑) and Milongta (密龙塔) of Tiānzhù administrative village (天竺村).
• Geographic coordinates: Approximately 30°34′ N, 118°26′ E (Xikou area, junction of Xuanzhou, Ningguo and Jingxian territories).

2. History and Cultural Significance:

• History: The Xuancheng area (ancient Xuanzhou, 宣州) is one of China’s oldest tea-producing regions. The earliest documented evidence of tea from Xuānchéng dates to the Eastern Jīn era (东晋, 317–420): during the reign of Emperor Yuán (元帝, 317–322), Wēn Qiáo (温峤, Wēn Qiáo), who held a post in Xuancheng, presented to the court “one thousand jin of tea and three hundred jin of ming” (上表贡茶一千斤，供茗三百斤) — this is one of the first mentions of tea as a court tribute in Chinese history. Thus, tea cultivation in Xuanzhou has more than 1,700 years of history.

  According to the “Xuancheng County Gazetteer” (《宣城县志》), one hundred li south of the city is Yangshan Mountain (阳山), and south of it is Gaofengshan (高峰山), “whose peak is crowned with clouds” (峰冠云表). On the mountain’s summit stood a hermitage (庵) covered with iron tiles, where “people lived side by side with monkeys” (人多杂猿猴以居). Below was located Taquanan Monastery (塔泉庵), “where famous tea was produced” (下有塔泉庵并产名茶). The name “Taquan” (塔泉 — “pagoda spring”) comes from this monastery and the mountain spring beside it. Hence also the poetic formula: “塔泉尽头水，高峰云雾茶” — “At the source of Taquan — water, on the peak of Gaofeng — cloud tea.”

  According to tradition, the flourishing of Taquanyun Wu came during the Qing era, in the reigns of Yōngzhèng (雍正, 1723–1735) and especially Qiánlóng (乾隆, 1736–1795). According to local legend, Emperor Qianlong, after tasting this tea, said: “天生丽质难自弃，离鼻三尺奇香来” — “Natural beauty cannot hide itself — three chi from the nose, one already feels the divine aroma.” During the Republican years, production declined and the tea was virtually lost. Revival began in 1955. In the 1980s, professors from the tea faculty of Ānhuī Agricultural University Wáng Zhènhéng (王镇恒, Wáng Zhènhéng) and Fāng Shìhuì (方世辉, Fāng Shìhuì) conducted detailed work to restore and perfect the technology. In 1982, Taquanyun Wu received high evaluation at the National Famous Tea Competition. In 1986, it was awarded the title “Optimal Quality Product of the Ministry of Commerce” (商业部优质产品). In 2002, it received “Green Food” certification (绿色食品) from China’s Green Food Development Center. In 2010, it won a gold award at the XVII Shanghai International Tea Culture Festival in the “Chinese Famous Tea” category (中国名茶).

• Name: 塔泉 (Tǎquán) — “pagoda spring,” from the name of Taquanan Monastery (塔泉庵) and the mountain spring at its walls. 云雾 (yún wù) — “clouds and mist,” a classic epithet for high-mountain teas growing in zones of constant cloudiness. Alternative historical name — Gāofēng Yùn Wǔ (高峰云雾) — refers to Gaofengshan Mountain (高峰山, “High Peak”).

• Cultural significance: Taquanyun Wu stands in the ranks of the great Anhui tea tradition, alongside Huangshan Maofeng, Lu’an Guapian and Taiping Houkui. The Xuanzhou region is mentioned in Lu Yu’s “Classic of Tea”: “宣城人秦精，常入武昌山采茗” — “A resident of Xuancheng named Qin Jing constantly went to Wuchang Mountain to gather tea.” This is one of the earliest testimonies of tea gathering in Anhui. In modern times, Taquanyun Wu was tea for the State Council of the PRC (国务院办公厅用茶) and, according to some sources, was exported for the British royal court. Annually in Xikou Town, the “Southern Anhui High Mountain Tea Festival” (皖南高山茶叶节) is held, where Taquanyun Wu has repeatedly taken first place.

3. Botanical Description and Raw Material:

• Species: Camellia sinensis var. sinensis.
• Variety / Cultivar: Main variety — Xīkǒu Willow Leaf (溪口柳叶种, Xīkǒu Liǔyè Zhǒng), a local population form (群体种) with narrow, elongated leaves, good bud pubescence and high content of aromatic substances. This is a medium-maturing small-leaf type, adapted to the mountain conditions of southwestern Anhui over many centuries.
• Harvest: Late spring — usually after Qīngmíng (清明) and before Gǔyǔ (谷雨, “Grain Rain”), approximately from early to late April. Due to the high altitude of the plantations (over 1000 m), vegetation begins late — in March, snow often still lies on Gaofengshan Mountain.
• Harvest standard: One bud and two leaves in initial opening stage (一芽二叶初展). Shoot length — about 8 cm. Shoots must be whole, fresh and uniform. A system of “four selections” (四选, sì xuǎn) applies: selection of garden, bush, branch and bud; as well as “eight prohibitions” (八不采, bā bù cǎi): don’t pick shoots too small or large, don’t pick leaves without buds, don’t pick in rain, don’t pick in midday heat, etc.
• Picking method: Only “pinching with support” (提折采法, tízhé cǎifǎ) — the shoot is carefully broken off, not torn with fingernails (the “fingernail pinching” method, 指甲捏采, is prohibited). Raw material is delivered in clean bamboo baskets, not pressed, not wetted.

4. Terroir and Cultivation Features:

• Growing altitude: The core production area — northwestern slope of Gaofengshan Mountain at an altitude of about 1155 m a.s.l. This is one of the highest points of the mountain massif at the junction of Xuanzhou, Ningguo (宁国) and Jīngxiàn (泾县).
• Topography: Mountain ridges — continuation of Huángshān spurs (黄山余脉). The area is “multi-layered”: peaks alternate with gorges, streams wind among steep slopes. Plantations are located in the upper forest belt, among clouds.
• Climate: Temperate subtropical. Average annual temperature — 15.4 °C (minimum recorded — 13.7 °C, maximum — 40 °C). Annual precipitation — about 1400 mm. Frost-free period — 229 days. Short daylight hours (mountains shade the sun) and constant morning/evening mists are key quality factors.
• Soils: Deep, well-drained, acidic (pH ≈ 5.5). Parent rock — weathered mountain shale with high mineral content.
• Ecology: Forest coverage of the area — more than 87%. Plantations are in natural surroundings of broadleaf and coniferous forests with rich biodiversity. Diffused light (漫射光) predominates over direct sunlight — this slows L-theanine breakdown and accumulates amino acids, giving the tea characteristic sweetness and depth.

5. Production Technology:

Taquanyun Wu is a representative of the “special hongqing green teas” category (特制烘青绿茶), meaning fixation is conducted by pan-firing, and final drying by hot air (unlike purely pan-fired chaoqing teas). The technology includes eight stages and is based on traditional methods restored and improved in the 1980s:

• Picking and spreading (鲜叶采摘·摊放, cǎizhāi · tānfàng): After picking, shoots are spread in a thin layer on bamboo mats in a clean, cool, ventilated room. Spreading time — 4–8 hours (maximum 10). The leaf loses surface gloss, becomes soft, moisture content decreases to 70–72%, fresh aroma appears — this signals readiness for fixation.
• Fixation / Kill-green (杀青, shāqīng): Conducted in a flat wok (平口锅) at wall temperatures of 110–200 °C (principle “first high, then lower”). Batch size — 220–250 g for hand firing. In the first 1–2 minutes — slow stirring for rapid heating; then — high tossing (高抛抖翻) to remove moisture, grassy smell and prevent burning. After ~5 minutes the leaf darkens to dark green, becomes soft, primary tea aroma appears. Moisture — about 60%. Mechanical fixation is also possible — in both cases the key principle: “fire through, fire evenly, no red stems and red leaves, no burnt edges” (杀透杀匀，无红梗红叶，无焦边爆点).
• Rolling and shaping (揉捻·做形, róuniǎn · zuòxíng): The cooled leaf after fixation is rolled, forming compact, dense tea particles. The degree of pressure determines the richness of the future liquor. Taquanyun Wu is shaped into tight, slightly curved spindle-shaped particles.
• Primary drying (初烘, chū hōng): Preliminary drying on a brazier at moderate temperature.
• Resting / Cooling (摊凉, tānliáng): Redistribution of residual moisture inside the tea particle — a critically important stage for aroma uniformity.
• Secondary drying (复烘, fù hōng): Final drying to stable moisture ≤ 7%. This is where the orchid tone (兰花香) is fixed — the signature feature of Taquanyun Wu.
• Sorting out (干茶拣剔, gānchá jiǎntī): Manual removal of non-standard particles, hard stems and fragments.
• Grading and packaging (分级包装, fēnjí bāozhuāng): Finished tea is divided into grades and packaged.

6. Organoleptic Characteristics:

• Dry leaf appearance: Dense, compact, slightly curved particles (条紧匀细), fleshy and weighty (肥壮重实). Color — dark green with oily luster (色绿油润). White down abundantly covers the surface, creating a light silvery coating (白毫裹身).
• Dry leaf aroma: Bright and fresh, with dominant orchid note (兰花香) and light chestnut undertone.
• Liquor aroma: Pronounced orchid aroma (兰花香气明显) — pure, high and persistent. This is the “calling card” of Taquanyun Wu, distinguishing it from most Anhui green teas.
• Taste: Dense and oily (醇厚, chúnhòu), with deep sweetness. Aftertaste — long, with pronounced returning sweetness (甘甜生津, gāntián shēngjīn) and sensation of freshness that persists in the mouth for several minutes. The characteristic “淡中有回味” (dàn zhōng yǒu huíwèi — “in apparent lightness — depth of aftertaste”) accurately describes the style of this tea.
• Liquor color: Clear, bright, from tender green to yellow-green (清澈明丽). Liquor clarity — high.
• Spent leaves (叶底, yèdǐ): Tender green with yellowish tint (芽叶嫩黄绿), soft, elastic, with well-preserved buds and leaves.

7. Chemical Composition:

• Polyphenols (茶多酚): Content — about 27.15% of dry mass (according to analyses for raw material from the Taquan core zone). Main fractions — catechins (EGCG, EGC, ECG).
• Amino acids (氨基酸): Elevated content — 4.18% of dry mass. This is a high indicator, providing pronounced sweetness and “umami” undertone. L-theanine is the dominant amino acid.
• Alkaloids: Caffeine (咖啡碱) — ~2.5–4%. Theobromine and theophylline — in trace amounts.
• Water-soluble extractive substances (水浸出物): High content — above average for Anhui green teas, which explains the richness and “body” of the liquor.
• Vitamins: C (ascorbic acid — well preserved thanks to gentle hongqing technology), B₁, B₂, E, K.
• Minerals: Potassium, manganese, zinc, fluorine, phosphorus.
• Essential oils and volatile compounds: Linalool, linalool oxide, nerolidol, geraniol, indole — form the complex orchid aroma. Methyl salicylate — responsible for the fresh “green” note.
• Peculiarity: The ratio of polyphenols to amino acids (27.15 : 4.18 ≈ 6.5 : 1) is in the zone optimal for high-quality green teas: enough polyphenols for “body,” but amino acids soften bitterness and add sweetness.

8. Health Properties:

• Antioxidant protection: High content of catechins (especially EGCG) provides powerful neutralizing action against free radicals, which slows cellular aging.
• Toning and focus: The classic combination “caffeine + L-theanine” provides gentle attention enhancement without nervousness — ideal for morning or work tea sessions.
• Cardiovascular system: Polyphenols help maintain vessel wall elasticity and normalize cholesterol levels.
• Digestion: Green tea stimulates gastric juice secretion and intestinal motility. Taquanyun Wu with its dense body is a good companion for afternoon tea.
• Immunity: Vitamin C and polyphenols support the body’s protective functions.
• Cognitive functions: L-theanine stimulates generation of brain alpha waves, improving the state of relaxed concentration and creative thinking.
• Oral cavity: Fluorine and catechins suppress pathogenic bacteria growth, reducing caries risk and freshening breath.
• Important: People with sensitive stomachs are not recommended to drink this tea on an empty stomach due to notable polyphenol content. Optimal — 30–60 minutes after meals.

9. Brewing:

• Water temperature: 90–95 °C — noticeably hotter than for many delicate green teas. The dense leaf of Taquanyun Wu needs high temperature for full aroma and flavor development.
• Tea amount: 3–4 g per 200 ml (glass) or 5 g per 150 ml gaiwan.
• Vessel: Clear glass tumbler with straight walls — recommended for best observation of tea particles. “Top pouring” method (上投法, shàngtóu fǎ): first hot water is poured, then tea particles are carefully lowered — they slowly sink, opening as they move. Porcelain gaiwan or glass teapot are also suitable.
• Process:
  1. Warm the vessel with boiling water, drain.
  2. Pour 90–95 °C water to 2/3 of glass volume.
  3. Carefully lower dry leaf into water.
  4. First steeping — 1.5–2 minutes (glass). Inhale the aroma: orchid notes should open from the first infusion.
  5. Drink, leaving about a third of liquor in glass before refilling.
  6. Number of refills — 2–3 (glass) or 4–6 infusions (gaiwan, 30–60 seconds with increase).

10. Storage:

• Container: Airtight, opaque — tin cans or vacuum foil packages.
• Temperature: Refrigerator 0–5 °C with strict sealing. Before opening package — bring to room temperature to avoid condensation.
• Light and moisture: Absolute enemies. Store away from kitchen spices, perfumes, medicines.
• Shelf life: 6–12 months for full flavor. Hongqing green teas are slightly more stable than chaoqing green teas in storage, but the principle “drink young” applies fully.

11. Price and Counterfeits:

• Price category: Medium and medium-high segment among Anhui green teas. Tea from the core zone (Taquan village, altitude ~1155 m) costs significantly more than production from adjacent flatland areas. Taquanyun Wu occupies the niche of “tea for connoisseurs” — less known to the general public than Huangshan Maofeng, but valued by experts for its deep character.
• How to avoid counterfeits:
  • Buy from producers from Xīkǒu (溪口镇) with origin confirmation. “Green food” certificate (绿色食品) is additional guarantee.
  • Evaluate appearance: authentic Taquanyun Wu — compact, dense particles with oily luster and abundant white down. Loose, dull leaf is a sign of substitution.
  • Aroma: orchid tone should be natural, without harshness and “caramel” sweetness.
  • Liquor: clear, tender green. Turbidity or brownish tint is an alarm signal.
  • Taste: first sip may seem delicate, but aftertaste should be deep and long (淡中有回味). Absence of aftertaste betrays a fake.

12. Interesting Facts:

• The production area is located at the junction of three counties — Xuanzhou, Ningguo and Jingxian — and is a continuation of the Huángshān mountain system (黄山余脉). Actually, Taquanyun Wu is the “younger brother” of famous Huangshan teas, growing on the same geological formations.
• Taquanan Monastery (塔泉庵), which gave the tea its name, stood on the slope of Gaofengshan. According to the “Xuancheng County Gazetteer,” its roof was covered with iron tiles (铁瓦), and inhabitants “lived side by side with monkeys” — an image echoing the legend of “tea gathered by monkeys” (猴采茶), widespread in other mountain areas of Anhui.
• After being lost during the Republican years, the tea was revived in 1955, and technological refinement was conducted by professors Wang Zhenheng and Fang Shihui from Anhui Agricultural University in the 1980s — a rare case where academic science directly “resurrected” a historical tea.
• Taquanyun Wu was for some time supplied as “tea for the State Council office of the PRC” (国务院办公厅用茶), and individual batches were exported for the British royal court (出口英国皇室).
• The annual “High Mountain Tea Festival” (皖南高山茶叶节) in Xikou is one of the main tea events of southern Anhui. Taquanyun Wu has repeatedly won in festival evaluation competitions, taking first place three years in a row.

13. Comparison with Other Green Teas:

• Huángshān Máofēng (黄山毛峰, Huángshān Máofēng): The most famous Anhui green tea. Maofeng is hongqing, like Taquanyun Wu, but from more tender raw material (bud + first leaf), with curved “bird’s tongue” shape and delicate sweet aroma. Taquanyun Wu is denser and more “muscular,” with more pronounced orchid note and deep aftertaste. Maofeng is silk, Taquan is velvet.
• Jīngxiàn Lánxiāng (泾县兰香, Jīngxiàn Lánxiāng): Green tea from neighboring Jingxian County — another representative of the “orchid” family. Lanxiang is more delicate and elongated in shape, with transparent floral aroma. Taquanyun Wu is more compact, heavier, with greater body fullness.
• Lúshān Yún Wù (庐山云雾, Lúshān Yún Wù): Jiangxi “cloud tea” from the “ten greats.” Larger leaf, thick-walled particles, pronounced astringency. Taquanyun Wu is more elegant and aromatic, with better balance of sweetness and bitterness.
• Jingting Lü Xuě (敬亭绿雪, Jìngtíng Lǜ Xuě): Another historical green tea from Xuancheng, from Jingtingshan Mountain. Distinguished by “snow” effect — white down, separating from particles during brewing, slowly descends like snowflakes. Style is lighter and more contemplative. Taquanyun Wu is denser, more “weighty” and rich.

In Conclusion:

Taquanyun Wu is a tea with destiny. Born at thousand-meter altitude, praised (according to legend) by Qianlong himself, lost in the storms of the 20th century and revived by scholars’ efforts — it carries that very “depth behind apparent lightness” that distinguishes great Anhui teas. Its orchid aroma, dense oily body and long building sweetness make it a discovery for those already familiar with Maofeng and Houkui and seeking something new but no less worthy. Brew it hotter — 90–95 °C, contrary to the habit of sparing green leaf — and it will respond with fullness you don’t expect from a cloud.