Tunlü

Tunlü (屯绿, túnlǜ) — abbreviated name for Tunxi Lücha (屯溪绿茶, Túnxī Lǜchá), one of the largest and historically most important Chinese export green teas. This is not a separate variety in the narrow sense, but a regional brand uniting production from several counties of southern Anhui, which for a century and a half was collected, processed and shipped through the trading center of Tunxi. On the international tea market, Tunlü is known under the English name Twaikay Tea and has earned the nickname «green gold» (绿色金子, lǜsè jīnzi).

1. Classification and Origin:

• Type: Green tea (绿茶, lǜchá) — unoxidized. By primary processing technology, belongs to the chaoqing (炒青, chǎoqīng) category — teas with pan-fired fixation, subcategory chang-chaoqing (长炒青, cháng chǎoqīng), that is «long pan-fired green tea», forming the characteristic elongated twisted leaf shape. The finished product, having passed the refining stage, is classified as meicha (眉茶, méichá) — «eyebrow tea», named so for the thin curved leaves resembling women’s eyebrows.
• Category: Traditional Chinese export green teas; regional brand with over 150 years of history. Product with protected geographical indication (地理标志产品, dìlǐ biāozhì chǎnpǐn).
• Origin: China (中国, Zhōngguó), Ānhuī Province (安徽省, Ānhuī shěng), southern mountainous part — area of Huángshān Prefecture (黄山市, Huángshān shì), former Huīzhōu Prefecture (徽州, Huīzhōu). Main production counties: Xiūníng (休宁县, Xiūníng xiàn), Shèxiàn (歙县, Shèxiàn), Qímén (祁门县, Qímén xiàn), Yīxiàn (黟县, Yīxiàn), Jìxī (绩溪县, Jìxī xiàn). Adjacent production zones: counties of Zhèjiāng (浙江) and Jiāngxī (江西) provinces — Chun’an (淳安), Jiande (建德), Kāihuà (开化), Wùyuán (婺源).
• Geographic coordinates: ≈ 29°43′ N, 118°19′ E (Tunxi area, regional trading center).

2. History and Cultural Significance:

• History: The origins of Tunlü trace back to the famous Sōngluó Chá (松萝茶, Sōngluó chá) — green tea from Xiuning County, whose processing technology was established during the Ming era. The actual «Tunlü» as a commercial brand formed during the Jiaqing — Dàoguāng period of the Qīng dynasty (清嘉庆—道光年间, approximately 1796–1850), when the refining technology of Songluo Cha was perfected and transformed into a system of standardized grades for export. Already in the Ming era, during the Wànlǐ period (万历, 1573–1620), local tea first appeared on the international market. By the end of the 19th century, Tunxi had become the largest tea trading hub of the region. The «Draft History of Qing» (《清史稿》) calls Tunxi the «capital of tea trade» (茶务都会, chá wù dūhuì). During the peak period (Tongzhi reign years, 同治, 1862–1874), annual Tunlü exports exceeded 10,000 yin (引, yǐn; 1 yin ≈ 50 kg), that is more than 500 tons. The Liangjiang Governor-General (两江总督) established in Túnxī the Southern Ānhuī Tea Tax Bureau (皖南茶厘局), whose annual collections reached 400,000 yuan. A folk saying of those years stated: «Without seeing Tunxi’s face, you smell tea from ten li away; enter a tea house — and forget your native village» (未见屯溪面，十里闻茶香；踏进茶号门，神怡忘故乡). In 1896, the owner of the Fuhechang (福和昌) tea house, Yu Botao, improved the refining technology and extracted from the mass of meicha an elite grade «Chou Zhen» (抽珍, chōuzhēn — «extracted treasure»), which instantly conquered the European market. In 1913, Tunlü was already being exported to Europe and America. At the Panama-Pacific Exhibition of 1915, the tea received a gold medal. By 1920, Tunxi counted over a hundred tea houses. After 1949, production was reorganized; Tunlü began to be sold in more than 80 countries on five continents. In 1981 and 1985, products from the Túnxī Tea Factory (特珍一级, 珍眉一级) were awarded state silver medals for quality. In 1988, at the 27th International Exhibition of Quality Food Products in Athens, Tunlü category «Te Zhen Teji» (特珍特级) again received a silver award.

• Name: Tunlü (屯绿) — abbreviation of Tunxi Lücha (屯溪绿茶). The character 屯 (tún) — name of Tunxi city; 绿 (lǜ) — «green», indication of tea type. Thus, this is a toponymic name: «green tea from Tunxi». Alternative name — meicha (眉茶, méichá, «eyebrow tea»), by the shape of the finished leaf.

• Cultural significance: Tunlü — one of the symbols of Huīzhōu (徽州) trading culture. Huìzhōu merchants (徽商, huīshāng), who were among the «five great merchant guilds» of China, made tea trade one of the main sources of their wealth. A literary monument of the prosperity era are the «Bamboo Songs of Tunxi Tea Market» (《屯溪茶市竹枝词》), vividly describing the trading bustle of late Qing Tunxi. Tunlü played a key role in forming the world culture of green tea consumption: it was precisely meicha from Tunxi that were among the first Chinese green teas to massively enter the markets of North Africa, the Middle East and Western Europe.

3. Botanical Description and Raw Material:

• Species: Camellia sinensis var. sinensis.
• Variety / Cultivar: Traditional raw material base — local population varieties (群体种, qúntǐzhǒng), formed over centuries of natural selection in southern Anhui conditions. These are genetically diverse small-leaf bushes adapted to mountain climate. In modern production, zoned cultivars are also used, including local selections.
• Harvest: Main season — spring (March — April); for highest grades (特珍, te zhen) early spring raw material is used. Summer and autumn harvest goes to production of mass grades.
• Harvest standard: One bud and one-two leaves (一芽一叶至一芽二叶, yī yá yī yè zhì yī yá èr yè) for highest categories; one bud and two-three leaves for mass grades. Selection of shoots with well-developed, fleshy buds and white down is required.

4. Terroir and Cultivation Features:

• Relief and altitude: Tea plantations are located predominantly on the slopes of southern Anhui mountains, at the foot of the Huangshan range and along the banks of the Xin’an River (新安江, Xīn’ānjiāng). Growing altitude — from 200 to 800 m above sea level; best lots originate from heights of 400–700 m.
• Climate: Subtropical monsoon, with abundant precipitation (1400–1800 mm per year) and frequent fogs, especially in spring. Average annual temperature 15–16°C. The difference between day and night temperatures in the mountains promotes accumulation of amino acids and aromatic substances.
• Soils: Acidic and slightly acidic mountain yellow and red-yellow soils predominate (pH 4.5–5.5) with high organic content and good drainage — optimal conditions for tea bushes.
• Ecology: A significant part of plantations is located in mixed forest zones. Forest cover of the region exceeds 82%, ensuring clean air and water. Many farms adhere to ecological farming principles.

5. Production Technology:

Tunlü undergoes two consecutive processing stages: primary (初制, chūzhì) — production of mao-cha (毛茶, máochá, crude tea) — and secondary, refining (精制, jīngzhì) — processing of mao-cha into finished product. It is precisely the complex refining stage that distinguishes Tunlü from most green teas and determines its commercial value.

Primary processing (初制):

1. Spreading and withering (摊晾, tānliàng): Freshly picked leaves are spread in a thin layer for 1–2 hours to evaporate surface moisture and achieve light softening.
2. Fixation (杀青, shāqīng): Key stage — stopping oxidative enzymes in a heated wok at temperature 180–220°C. Forms the aroma base and fixes the green color.
3. Rolling (揉捻, róuniǎn): Mechanical destruction of cellular structure, juice extraction and formation of the characteristic elongated, slightly curved shape of «long chaoqing».
4. Drying (干燥, gānzào): Bringing to stable moisture content (about 5–6%) in a wok or drying cabinet. The resulting product — «long chaoqing» (长炒青) — is a semi-finished product.

Refining processing (精制):

5. Sifting (筛分, shāifēn): Separating mao-cha by size into fractions using sieves of different caliber.
6. Cutting (切轧, qiēzhá): Shortening long leaves to obtain standard shape.
7. Winnowing (风选, fēngxuǎn): Separation by weight and density with air flow; removal of dust, empty and light fractions.
8. Hand sorting (拣剔, jiǎntī): Removal of stems, yellow leaves and foreign inclusions.
9. Color polishing (车色, chēsè): Light processing in a drum to even out color and impart oily luster.
10. Blending (匀堆, yúnduī): Mixing batches to ensure uniform quality of finished product.

The result of refining is a set of standardized commercial grades — colors (花色, huāsè) of meicha.

6. Organoleptic Characteristics:

Tunlü is famous for the so-called «four perfections» (四绝, sì jué): «leaf green, liquor clear, aroma noble, taste full-bodied» (叶绿、汤清、香醇、味厚).

• Dry leaf appearance: Thin, tightly twisted strips, slightly curved like eyebrows (hence the name «meicha»). Color — dark green with silvery-gray bloom (起霜, qǐshuāng — «covered with frost»), oily luster. In highest grades, bud tips are clearly visible.
• Dry leaf aroma: Pronounced, clean, with distinct chestnut notes (栗香, lìxiāng) — the signature aromatic profile of Tunlü. Light floral and sweet undertones may be present.
• Liquor aroma: High, clean, persistent. Chestnut-nutty profile dominates, complemented by soft grassy-floral tones. Aroma persists through several infusions.
• Taste: Rich, full-bodied, with good density (醇厚, chúnhòu). Sweet, fresh, without pronounced bitterness or astringency in properly brewed tea. Aftertaste is long, clean, with returning sweetness (回甘, huígān) and refreshing finish.
• Liquor color: Green or yellow-green, clear, transparent, with bright luster.
• Spent leaves (wet leaves): Leaves unfold evenly, soft, elastic, greenish-yellow color with well-preserved structure.

7. Chemical Composition:

• Polyphenols (catechins): Tea polyphenol content in Tunlü is about 18–24% of dry mass. Main catechins — EGCG, EGC, ECG — provide antioxidant activity and form the basis of the taste profile.
• Amino acids: Total content — 2.5–4% of dry mass, with L-theanine predominating (L-茶氨酸). Relatively high amino acid level is due to mountain terroir and frequent cloudiness, reducing photosynthesis intensity. It is precisely amino acids that give the tea its characteristic sweetness and fullness of taste.
• Caffeine (咖啡碱, kāfēijiǎn): About 2.5–3.5% of dry mass (approximately 30–45 mg per 150 ml cup with standard brewing). Together with theanine provides mild, prolonged tonic effect.
• Vitamins: Vitamin C (30–60 mg/100 g dry tea), B vitamins (B1, B2, B6), vitamin E, vitamin K.
• Minerals: Potassium, magnesium, manganese, zinc, fluorine, phosphorus. Individual production zones (Ziyang, adjacent areas) are distinguished by increased selenium content in soils, which is reflected in tea composition.
• Essential oils and aromatic compounds: Chestnut aroma is primarily due to pyrazines and Maillard reaction products formed during pan-fired fixation (shaqing). The aromatic complex also includes linalool, geraniol, cis-jasmone and other terpenoids.

8. Health Properties:

• Tonic action: Combination of caffeine and L-theanine provides alertness without sharp peaks — gentle increase in concentration and mental activity, characteristic of quality green teas.
• Antioxidant protection: High catechin content (especially EGCG) promotes neutralization of free radicals and slowing of cellular oxidative stress.
• Digestive support: Moderate tannicity stimulates digestive enzyme production; traditionally considered good accompaniment to food.
• Cardiovascular system: Green tea polyphenols are associated with cholesterol level normalization and maintaining vascular elasticity.
• Immune support: Vitamin C and catechins strengthen the body’s protective mechanisms.
• Oral health: Fluorine and catechin content provides antibacterial action, promoting caries prevention.
• Cognitive functions: L-theanine improves attention quality and reduces anxiety, complementing caffeine’s stimulating effect.

9. Brewing:

• Water temperature: 80–85°C for highest grades (特珍, 珍眉 high grades); 85–90°C for denser mass grades (贡熙, 秀眉).

• Tea amount: 3 g per 150 ml water (European method); 5–6 g per 100–120 ml (gongfu brewing method in gaiwan).

• Teaware: Porcelain or glass gàiwǎn (盖碗, gàiwǎn), glass cup, porcelain teapot. Glass teaware allows observation of leaf unfolding and liquor color.

• Process:

1. Warm teaware with hot water, drain.
2. Add dry tea, let it «wake up» for 10–15 seconds in warmed teaware.
3. Pour water of proper temperature to 1/3 volume, swirl — first infusion can be used as drinking tea (rinsing is not mandatory for Tunlü).
4. Add water to full volume.
5. First infusion — 40–60 seconds (gongfu method: 15–20 seconds).
6. Subsequent infusions: increase time by 10–15 seconds with each steeping. High-grade Tunlü withstands 4–6 infusions; mass grades — 3–4.

10. Storage:

• Store in airtight, opaque container (tin can, vacuum foil packaging), away from light, moisture, heat and foreign odors.
• Optimal temperature — 0–5°C (refrigerator) for long-term storage; cool dark place (up to 15°C) acceptable for tea to be consumed within 1–2 months.
• Main enemies: moisture (above 6% — degradation begins), oxygen, ultraviolet light, foreign odors.
• Recommended consumption period — 12–18 months from production date with proper storage. Fresh Tunlü reveals best in the first 6 months.

11. Price and Counterfeits:

• Price category: Tunlü covers a wide price range — from affordable mass grades (秀眉, 雨茶), comprising the export base, to premium Tè Zhèn Tèjí (特珍特级), whose price is significantly higher. Main cost factors: harvest season (spring — more expensive), refining grade, production year, specific county of origin.
• How to avoid counterfeits:
  • Buy from verified producers with geographical indication marking (地理标志).
  • Evaluate appearance: authentic high-grade Tunlü has thin, even, tightly twisted leaves with silvery «frost»; loose, uneven, dull leaves — sign of low-quality substitution.
  • Check aroma: characteristic chestnut tone should be natural, without sharp artificial notes. Flavored counterfeits smell artificial and quickly lose scent.
  • Evaluate liquor: clean, transparent, greenish-yellow; muddy or dull brown liquor indicates old or improperly stored tea.
  • Be suspicious of suspiciously low prices: if «Te Zhen» is offered at «Xiumei» price, this is almost certainly misgrading or substitution with raw material from other regions.

12. Interesting Facts:

• The «Draft History of Qing» — draft version of the official history of the Qing dynasty — honored Tunxi with special mention as «capital of tea trade» (茶务都会). For a small mountain town, this was exceptional recognition.
• Tunlü — one of the few green teas whose commercial grade system numbered more than 20 names: Tè Zhèn (特珍), Zhēnméi (珍眉), Gòngxī (贡熙), Xiùméi (秀眉), Zhēnméi (针眉), Fengmei (凤眉), Yùchá (雨茶), Chápiàn (茶片) — a whole hierarchy of «eyebrows» of different caliber.
• Huizhou tea merchants were so powerful that a separate tea tax bureau was established in Tunxi to control trade, with an official of daotai (道台) rank — a high-ranking provincial administrator.
• Tunlü served as the base for scented teas: it was precisely from high-quality meicha that jasmine (茉莉花茶), lanhua (珠兰花茶), yulanhua (玉兰花茶), guihua (桂花) and other floral teas were produced, supplied to both domestic and export markets.
• During the export boom period, in late 19th — early 20th century, main buyers were North Africa (Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia — where green meicha became the base for famous Maghreb mint tea), Great Britain, Russia and USA. Thus, every glass of Moroccan mint tea is, essentially, a descendant of Tunlü.

13. Comparison with Other Green Teas:

• Zhejiang Lücha (浙绿): Neighboring Zhèjiāng green tea (杭绿, 温绿, 遂绿) also belongs to the meicha category. Zhejiang production is generally somewhat lighter and more delicate in taste, with more pronounced floral notes, while Tunlü is valued precisely for body fullness, chestnut depth and oily density.
• Wuyuan Lücha / Wulü (婺绿, Wùlǜ): Green tea from neighboring Wuyuan County (now Jiangxi Province, historically — Huizhou). Close relative of Tunlü by terroir and technology, but slightly lighter in taste. Historically, part of Wuyuan raw material also went to Tunxi for processing and export under the «Tunlü» brand.
• Sōngluó Chá (松萝茶, Sōngluó chá): Direct predecessor of Tunlü. Songluo Cha is produced from more tender raw material (one bud — one leaf) and does not undergo complex refining stage. Taste is finer, aroma cleaner, but without the characteristic chestnut depth of Tunlü.
• Zhujiang Méichá (珠江眉茶): Guangdong meicha — more southern and heavy in character, with less pronounced aromatic profile. Tunlü is considered the «northern» and most refined variety of meicha.

14. Commercial Grades (花色) of Tunlü:

The Tunlü grading system — one of the most branched in the world of green tea. After simplification of the 1980s, main categories look as follows:

• Tè Zhèn (特珍, tèzhēn): «Especially precious» — highest grade. Thin, even, tightly twisted leaves with silvery bloom and clearly visible buds. Grades: special (特级), first (一级), second (二级).
• Zhēnméi (珍眉, zhēnméi): «Precious eyebrow» — main export grade. Grades from first to fifth, plus «ungraded» (不列级).
• Yǔchá (雨茶, yǔchá): «Rain tea» — small fraction formed during sifting.
• Gòngxī (贡熙, gòngxī): «Tribute harmony» — leaves twisted into pellets. Grades: Tè Gōng (特贡), first — third, plus ungraded.
• Xiùméi (秀眉, xiùméi): «Elegant eyebrow» — coarser, lighter leaves. Grades: special, first — third.
• Chápiàn (茶片, chápiàn): Flat leaf fragments — most mass and cheapest grade.

Total — 19 commercial positions, making Tunlü one of the most detailed classified green teas of China.

In conclusion:

Tunlü — this is not simply tea, but a whole trading and cultural phenomenon, a connecting link between mountain plantations of southern Anhui and tea glasses of Marrakech, London and New York. Over a century and a half it has traveled the path from cottage industry of Huizhou peasants to one of China’s largest export products, earning the nickname «green gold». Today Tunlü remains true to its formula of «four perfections»: green leaf, clear liquor, noble chestnut aroma and full-bodied, enveloping taste. This is tea for those who value substance and depth — a calm, self-confident daily drink, behind which stands a century and a half of mastery.