Wūlóng

Oolong, also known as “Black Dragon” or “Dark Dragon”, is an extensive group of semi-oxidized teas occupying an intermediate position between green and red tea (black tea in European terminology) in terms of oxidation level. Oolongs are renowned for their extraordinarily wide spectrum of flavors and aromas, which range from fresh, floral, and grassy to rich, spicy, fruity, nutty, and even smoky.

1. Classification and Origin:

• Type: Semi-oxidized tea. The degree of oxidation of oolongs can vary widely from 8-12% to 80-85%, which accounts for their flavor diversity.

• Category: One of the six main categories of tea in Chinese classification (alongside green, white, yellow, red, and dark tea). In turn, oolongs are divided into numerous subgroups by place of origin, tea cultivar, degree of oxidation, and roasting.

• Origin: The homeland of oolongs is considered to be Fújiàn Province (福建, Fújiàn) in southeastern China. It was here, in the Wǔyí Mountains (武夷山, Wǔyí Shān) and Ānxī County (安溪县, Ānxī Xiàn), that the traditions of oolong tea production originated. Later the technology spread to Táiwān (台湾, Táiwān), where unique cultivars were developed and distinctive processing methods were created, as well as to Guǎngdōng Province (广东, Guǎngdōng).

• Geographic coordinates:

  • Fujian: 23° - 28° North latitude, 116° - 120° East longitude.
  • Taiwan: 22° - 25° North latitude, 120° - 122° East longitude.
  • Guangdong: 20° - 25° North latitude, 109° - 117° East longitude.

2. History and Cultural Significance:

• History: The history of oolongs spans several centuries. There are numerous versions and legends about the origin of this type of tea. According to one version, oolongs appeared during the Ming dynasty (1368-1644) in the Wuyi Mountains. According to another version, they began to be produced in Anxi County in the early 18th century. In any case, by the 19th century oolongs were already widely known and highly valued in China and beyond.

• Name:

  • “Oolong” (乌龙) - “black dragon,” “dark dragon,” “raven dragon.” There are several versions of the origin of this name:
    • Leaf shape: The dark, curved tea leaves of oolongs resemble a coiled black dragon.
    • Legend of the tea grower: According to one legend, a tea grower named Sù Long (苏龙), whose name sounds similar to “Wu Long,” was black as coal.
    • Tea properties: Perhaps the name reflects the strength, power, and changeability inherent in this type of tea.

• Cultural significance: Oolongs occupy an important place in Chinese tea culture. They are valued for their rich taste, multifaceted aroma, ability to withstand multiple infusions, and harmonizing effect. Oolongs are often used in Gōngfū Chá (功夫茶, Gōngfū Chá) - the traditional Chinese tea ceremony, where every detail is important - from the choice of utensils to brewing technique.

3. Botanical Description and Raw Material:

• Cultivar: For oolong production, numerous cultivars of the tea plant (Camellia sinensis) are used. Each region typically specializes in its own cultivars that are best adapted to local conditions. Some of the most famous cultivars:
  • Tiěguānyīn (铁观音, Tiě Guānyīn): “Iron Goddess of Mercy” - one of the most famous cultivars, originating from Anxi County, Fujian Province.
  • Dà Hóng Páo (大红袍, Dà Hóng Páo): “Big Red Robe” - legendary cultivar from the Wuyi Mountains, Fujian Province.
  • Ròu Guì (肉桂, Ròu Guì): “Cinnamon” - cultivar from the Wuyi Mountains, known for its spicy aroma.
  • Shuǐ Xiān (水仙, Shuǐ Xiān): “Water Narcissus” - cultivar widespread in the Wuyi Mountains and southern Fujian.
  • Bái Jí Guǎn (白鸡冠, Bái Jīguān): “White Cockscomb” - rare cultivar from the Wuyi Mountains.
  • Huáng Jìn Guì (黄金桂, Huángjīn Guì): “Golden Osmanthus” - cultivar from Anxi County, known for its floral aroma.
  • Máo Xiè (毛蟹, Máo Xiè): “Hairy Crab” - another popular cultivar from Anxi County.
  • Qí Lán (奇兰, Qí Lán): “Rare/Wonderful Orchid” - cultivar known for its floral aroma.
  • Fó Shǒu (佛手, Fó Shǒu): “Buddha’s Hand” - cultivar named for its leaf shape resembling fingers.
  • Qīng Xīn Oolong (青心乌龙, Qīng Xīn Wūlóng): “Green Heart Oolong” - widespread cultivar in Taiwan.
  • Jīn Xuān (金萱, Jīn Xuān): “Golden Flower” - Taiwanese bred cultivar known for its light creamy aroma.
  • Sì Jì Chūn (四季春, Sì Jì Chūn): “Four Seasons Spring” - Taiwanese cultivar known for its hardiness.
• Harvest: Harvest time depends on the specific region and oolong cultivar. Spring oolongs are most valued, but harvesting can also occur in summer, autumn, and winter.
• Harvest standard: Usually bud and two to three top leaves are picked, but for some oolongs more mature leaves may also be used. For premium oolongs, only the most tender raw material is used.
• Raw material requirements: High. Only healthy, undamaged leaves and buds are used.

4. Terroir and Cultivation:

• Regions: Oolongs are grown in three main regions:
  • Northern Fújiàn (闽北, Mǐn Běi): Wuyi Mountains - homeland of cliff oolongs (Yan Cha), such as Da Hong Pao, Rou Gui, Shui Xian. The mountains are characterized by rocky terrain, red soils rich in minerals, and humid climate with frequent fogs. These conditions give Wuyi oolongs their distinctive “cliff” character (“rock rhyme” - yán yùn).
  • Southern Fújiàn (闽南, Mǐnnán): Anxi County - homeland of Tieguanyin and many other cultivars. Here hilly terrain predominates, soils are also rich in minerals. The climate is subtropical with abundant precipitation.
  • Taiwan: Mountain regions such as Alishan, Shan Lin Xi, Li Shan, Dong Ding, and others. Taiwan mainly grows lightly oxidized oolongs, often at high altitude (over 1000 meters). High-mountain oolongs are valued for their delicate aroma, sweet taste, and high amino acid content.
  • Guǎngdōng Province (广东, Guǎngdōng): Fenghuang Mountains - homeland of Dan Congs. Here old tea trees predominate, and the tea is distinguished by unique aromatic diversity.
• Growing altitude: Can vary from 200 to 2600 meters above sea level, depending on region. High-mountain oolongs (above 1000 meters) are especially highly valued.
• Soils: Diverse, but generally rich in minerals and well-drained. In Wuyi, red soils with sandstone inclusions predominate; in Anxi - red and yellow soils.
• Climate: Subtropical monsoon, with warm winters and hot summers. Characterized by high humidity, abundant precipitation, frequent fogs.

5. Production Technology:

The technology for producing oolongs is one of the most complex in the tea world. It includes numerous stages, each requiring great experience and attention to detail from the master. Key features of the technology are repeated shaking and “resting” of leaves, as well as roasting.

• Harvest (采摘 - cǎi zhāi): Described above, performed by hand.
• Withering (萎凋 - wěidiāo): Harvested leaves are spread in the open air (sun or shade withering) or indoors for several hours (sometimes up to a day or more). The goal is to remove part of the moisture from the leaves (30-50%), make them softer and more elastic, and also start the oxidation process.
• Shaking (摇青 - yáo qīng): The most important and complex stage in oolong production. Leaves are carefully shaken, stirred, and tossed on special bamboo trays or in special machines (nowadays). This process stimulates oxidation unevenly across the leaf. Leaf edges oxidize more strongly (and later acquire a reddish tint), while the center oxidizes less. Shaking is performed several times (from 3-5 to 10-12 and more) with breaks for leaf “resting” (静置 - jìngzhì). “Resting” can last from 30 minutes to several hours. It is precisely the alternation of shaking and “resting” that allows the tea master to precisely control the degree of oxidation and form the desired flavor-aromatic profile of the tea. This stage can take from 8 to 24 hours and longer.
• Oxidation (发酵 - fājiào): The oxidation process that occurs during shaking and “resting” of leaves. The degree of oxidation of oolongs can vary widely (from 8-12% to 80-85%), which accounts for their flavor diversity.
• Kill-green (杀青 - shā qīng): Roasting at high temperature (180-250°C) in woks, special rollers, or machines. The goal is to stop the oxidation process, fix the aroma, remove grassy smell, and give leaves their shape.
• Rolling (揉捻 - róuniǎn): After kill-green, leaves are rolled, giving them their characteristic shape. The rolling shape depends on region and specific type of oolong:
  • Semi-spherical (ball-shaped): Characteristic of Taiwanese oolongs and many oolongs from Anxi (Tieguanyin).
  • Longitudinal: Characteristic of cliff oolongs from Wuyi and Dan Congs.
• Drying (烘干 - hōnggān): Tea is dried to remove moisture and give it stability during storage. Drying can occur in several stages.
• Roasting (焙火 - bèihuǒ): Many oolongs undergo final roasting (heating). The degree of roasting can vary:
  • Light (low-temperature): Preserves more fresh, floral notes in the aroma.
  • Medium: Gives tea a richer taste with nutty, caramel notes.
  • Strong (high-temperature): Characteristic of cliff oolongs, gives tea a “fiery” taste with smoky, chocolate nuances.
  • Charcoal roasting (Tang Pei): Traditional roasting method that gives tea a special, deep aroma.
• Sorting (分级 - fēnjí): Finished tea is sorted by size and quality.
• Resting: After roasting, tea “rests” for some time so that taste and aroma balance.

6. Organoleptic Characteristics:

The organoleptic properties of oolongs represent a complex system of interconnected characteristics that are formed under the influence of multiple factors. Each stage of production leaves its mark on the final profile of the tea.

Visual characteristics of dry leaf: The appearance of oolongs varies from tightly rolled semi-spherical granules (characteristic of Tiě Guānyīn and Taiwanese oolongs) to longitudinally twisted strips (typical of cliff teas). The color range encompasses a spectrum from emerald green with silvery sheen in lightly oxidized varieties to dark brown with bronze tones in heavily roasted ones. Quality oolongs are distinguished by leaf integrity, absence of crumbs and dust, and uniformity of rolling. Upon careful examination, one can notice the characteristic “red edge” (红边, hóng biān) - the result of oxidation of leaf edges during shaking.

Aromatic profile: The aroma of oolongs is multi-layered and changeable. In dry form, lightly oxidized oolongs emit fresh floral notes - orchid, jasmine, osmanthus, sometimes with hints of fresh greenery and milky nuances. Medium-oxidized varieties demonstrate a fruity range - peach, apricot, lychee, with honey accents. Heavily oxidized and roasted oolongs reveal woody, spicy, caramel tones with notes of baked fruits, nuts, sometimes cocoa and tobacco. After brewing, the aromatic palette becomes more complex, with new shades appearing. Particularly valued is “huí gān” (回甘, huí gān) - the returning sweetness that is felt in the throat after swallowing.

Taste characteristics: The taste of oolongs is distinguished by fullness, oiliness, and velvety texture. Lightly oxidized varieties demonstrate refreshing sweetness with light astringency, floral and grassy notes. As the degree of oxidation increases, fruity and honey shades appear, and the taste becomes more saturated and rounded. Heavily oxidized oolongs possess deep, multifaceted flavor with mineral, woody, and spicy accents. Roasting adds caramel, nutty, and sometimes smoky notes. An important characteristic is “yán yùn” (岩韵, yán yùn) - the special mineral aftertaste of cliff teas, and “yīn yùn” (音韵, yīn yùn) - the characteristic aftertaste of Tiě Guānyīn.

Color and clarity of liquor: The color range of oolong liquor is extremely diverse. Lightly oxidized varieties produce light yellow, greenish-golden liquor. With increasing degree of oxidation, the color deepens to honey and amber. Heavily oxidized and roasted oolongs produce rich orange, reddish-brown liquor. Quality oolong always produces clear, bright liquor without cloudiness or sediment. Upon cooling, light opalescence may appear - a sign of high essential oil content.

Tactile sensations: Oolongs create special tactile sensations in the mouth. Characteristic are oiliness and enveloping texture, which are especially pronounced in high-quality varieties. A pleasant astringency is felt, stimulating salivation. After swallowing, a long-lasting, evolving aftertaste remains with a cooling effect in the throat.

Dynamics of change during multiple infusions: One of the unique features of oolongs is their ability to withstand multiple infusions, with each revealing new facets of taste and aroma. The first infusions are usually more aromatic, with dominance of top notes. By the third-fourth infusion, the main body of flavor is revealed. Subsequent infusions demonstrate deeper, base notes. Quality oolong can withstand 7-10 infusions or more, gradually unfolding and evolving.

7. Organoleptic Characteristics:

The flavor-aromatic properties of oolongs are very diverse and depend on:

• Tea cultivar.

• Growing region (terroir).

• Degree of oxidation.

• Degree and method of roasting.

• Harvest season.

• Producer’s skill.

General characteristics:

• Appearance: Rolled leaves, shape depends on region (semi-spherical or longitudinal). Color from green to dark brown, sometimes with reddish tint.
• Aroma: Rich, multifaceted. Can vary from fresh, floral, fruity (in lightly oxidized oolongs) to rich, spicy, nutty, caramel, chocolate, smoky (in heavily oxidized and roasted oolongs).
• Taste: Full, rich, oily, with light astringency and sweet aftertaste. The bouquet may contain floral, fruity, honey, nutty, caramel, spicy, woody, mineral notes.
• Liquor color: From light yellow, golden (in lightly oxidized) to amber-red, brown (in heavily oxidized and roasted).
• Spent leaves: Whole, elastic leaves that have opened after brewing. Color from green to brown, often with “red rim” around edges (result of oxidation).

8. Chemical Composition:

Oolongs are rich in:

• Polyphenols: Catechins, theaflavins, thearubigins - powerful antioxidants.
• Amino acids: Especially L-theanine, which is responsible for sweet taste and has calming effects.
• Alkaloids: Caffeine, theobromine, theophylline.
• Essential oils: Determine the rich and multifaceted aroma of oolongs. Essential oil composition strongly depends on cultivar, terroir, and processing technology.
• Vitamins: C, B group, E, K.
• Minerals: Potassium, fluoride, magnesium, manganese, iron, selenium.

9. Health Properties:

• Tonic effect: Energize, improve concentration, relieve fatigue.
• Antioxidant action: Protect cells from free radicals, slow aging processes, contribute to prevention of cancer and cardiovascular diseases.
• Digestive improvement: Stimulate digestion, improve metabolism, promote food absorption.
• Warming/Cooling action: Depending on degree of oxidation and roasting, oolongs can have both warming (dark oolongs) and cooling (light oolongs) effects.
• Cardiovascular system: Help reduce “bad” cholesterol levels, strengthen blood vessel walls, normalize blood pressure.
• Weight reduction: Accelerate metabolism, promote fat breakdown.
• Detoxification: Help remove toxins from the body.
• Relaxing effect: Thanks to L-theanine, oolongs help relieve stress, improve mood, promote relaxation.
• Immune strengthening: Increase body resistance to infections.
• Oral health benefits: High fluoride content promotes tooth enamel strengthening and caries prevention.

10. Brewing:

• Water temperature: Varies depending on degree of oxidation and roasting of oolong:

  • Lightly oxidized (green) oolongs: 80-90°C.
  • Medium-oxidized oolongs: 85-95°C.
  • Heavily oxidized and roasted oolongs: 90-95°C (sometimes up to 98°C).

• Tea amount: 5-7 grams per 150-200 ml water (approximately 1-1.5 teaspoons).

• Utensils: Gaiwan (traditional Chinese cup with lid) and Yixing clay teapot are ideal. Yixing clay is considered best for oolongs because it is porous and allows tea to “breathe,” and also “remembers” tea aroma, which over time improves the taste of the infusion. Porcelain utensils can also be used.

• Process:

  1. Warming utensils: Rinse gaiwan or teapot with boiling water.
  2. Tea rinse (quick pour): Place tea in gaiwan, pour small amount of hot water and immediately drain water. This stage allows washing dust from leaves and also “awakening” tea, preparing it for opening.
  3. First brewing: Pour hot water over tea (temperature depends on type of oolong) and steep from several seconds to 1-3 minutes. Time depends on specific type of oolong, raw material quality, and your preferences. For lightly oxidized oolongs, the first pour is usually shortest (15-30 seconds), for heavily oxidized and roasted - longer.
  4. Pour infusion into cups: Completely drain infusion from gaiwan or teapot into fairness cup (cháhǎi), then pour into cups.
  5. Repeated brewings: Oolongs can be brewed multiple times (5-7 times, sometimes more), gradually increasing steeping time by 15-30 seconds with each subsequent pour. With each pour, the taste and aroma of tea will change, revealing new facets.

Important nuances:

• Don’t oversteep: Too long brewing can lead to bitterness and astringency, especially with lightly oxidized oolongs.
• Listen to the tea: Focus on your sensations, on color and aroma of infusion, adjust brewing time.
• Observe the tea: Pay attention to how leaves open, how infusion color changes. This will help better understand tea character.
• Experiment: Don’t be afraid to try different brewing methods, water temperature, steeping time to find your ideal variant.

11. Storage:

Oolongs, especially lightly oxidized ones, are quite sensitive to storage conditions. They should be stored:

• In a dry, cool, dark place: Avoid direct sunlight, sharp temperature and humidity changes. Some oolongs (especially lightly oxidized) are recommended to be stored in refrigerator.
• In airtight containers: Porcelain, ceramic, or tin cans with tightly closing lids work best. Special zip-lock bags can also be used, after removing air from them.
• Away from foreign odors: Tea easily absorbs odors, so it cannot be stored near products with strong smell (spices, coffee, fish, etc.).

12. Market and Price Range:

Oolong prices can vary greatly depending on:

• Growing region: Oolongs from famous regions (Wuyi, Anxi, Taiwan) cost more.
• Tea cultivar: Rare and valuable cultivars cost more.
• Bush age: Raw material from old bushes (“Lao Cong”) is valued higher.
• Growing altitude: High-mountain oolongs cost more.
• Harvest season: Spring tea is usually most expensive.
• Raw material quality: Whether select buds and young leaves or more mature raw material is used.
• Processing technology: Handwork is valued higher than machine work. Complexity and multi-stage processing (e.g., multiple charcoal roasting) increases cost.
• Producer reputation: Famous masters and brands cost more.
• Demand: High demand for certain types of oolongs affects price.

Due to high popularity and value of some oolongs, unfortunately, counterfeits and imitations are found on the market. How to avoid counterfeits:

• Buy only from verified sellers: Look for specialized tea shops with good reputation that value their customers and can provide reliable information about tea origin.
• Beware of too low prices: Suspiciously low price is almost always a sure sign of counterfeit, especially for famous oolongs (Da Hong Pao, Tieguanyin, high-mountain Taiwanese oolongs).
• Carefully study appearance: Pay attention to shape, color, leaf integrity. They should correspond to description of specific cultivar. Presence of many broken leaves, dust, foreign impurities - sign of low quality or counterfeit.
• Evaluate aroma: Dry tea should have rich, complex aroma characteristic of given type of oolong. Avoid tea with weak, unexpressive, musty, or foreign smell.
• Check infusion and spent leaves: Liquor color, taste, and aroma should correspond to description of specific oolong. Spent leaves should consist of whole, elastic leaves.
• Be especially careful when buying oolongs with indication of specific harvest location (e.g., “Zheng Yan” for Wuyi oolongs) or bush age (“Lao Cong”): Such information is difficult to verify, so trust only verified sources.
• Buy small amount for testing: Before buying large batch of expensive tea, take small amount for testing to evaluate its quality.

13. Main Categories of Oolongs:

Oolongs can be divided into several main categories by production region:

• Wuyi Oolongs (Yan Cha - 岩茶): Produced in Wuyi Mountains of Fujian Province. Famous for their “cliff” character (“rock rhyme” - yán yùn), strong degree of oxidation and roasting. Famous representatives: Da Hong Pao, Rou Gui, Shui Xian, Tie Luohan.
• Southern Fujian Oolongs: Produced in southern Fujian Province, in vicinity of Anxi County. Most famous representative - Tieguanyin. Usually have lighter liquor color and more pronounced floral notes compared to Wuyi oolongs.
• Taiwanese Oolongs: Produced on Taiwan island. Often grown at high altitude (over 1000 meters). Distinguished by diversity of cultivars and processing technologies. Famous representatives: Alishan, Dong Ding, Li Shan, Dong Fang Mei Ren.
• Guangdong Oolongs: Produced in Guangdong Province. Most famous group - Dan Congs from Fenghuang Mountains, distinguished by unique aromatic diversity.

14. Oolongs and Health:

Oolong consumption is associated with a number of health benefits, but it’s important to remember that tea is not medicine, but only part of a healthy lifestyle.

15. Consumption Culture:

• Gongfu Cha: Oolongs are ideal for brewing using Gongfu Cha method - traditional Chinese tea ceremony. This method allows maximum revelation of tea taste and aroma, as well as enjoyment of the process itself.
• Utensils: For brewing, it’s best to use gaiwan or small Yixing clay teapot.
• Food pairing: Oolongs have quite rich taste, so they’re better drunk separately from food.
• Time of day: Oolongs can be drunk any time of day, but degree of oxidation and roasting should be considered. Lightly oxidized oolongs are more suitable for morning and afternoon tea drinking, while heavily oxidized and roasted ones - for evening.

In Conclusion:

Oolongs are an amazing and multifaceted world of tea that can satisfy the most diverse tastes and preferences. From fresh and floral to rich, spicy, and smoky, oolongs offer the richest palette of taste and aromatic sensations. Studying oolongs is a fascinating journey that allows not only enjoying exquisite taste and aroma of tea, but also touching the ancient tea culture of China and Taiwan, becoming acquainted with the diversity of cultivars, terroirs, and production technologies. Each oolong is a separate story, a separate world worth discovering.