Xīhú lóngjǐng

Xī Hú Lóngjǐng (西湖龙井, Xīhú lóngjǐng) is one of the most famous Chinese green teas, heading the list of “Ten Famous Teas of China” (中国十大名茶). This flat tea with characteristic “four perfections” — green color (色绿), fragrant aroma (香郁), mellow taste (味醇) and beautiful form (形美) — embodies the refinement of the tea culture of the West Lake region and is a geographical indication product (地理标志产品) protected by national standard GB/T 18650.

1. Classification and Origin:

• Type: Green tea (non-oxidized). Belongs to the category of pan-fired green teas (炒青绿茶, chǎoqīng lǜchá) with flat leaf form (扁形绿茶, biǎnxíng lǜchá).

• Category: Heads the list of “Ten Famous Teas of China” (中国十大名茶, Zhōngguó shí dà míngchá). Geographical indication product (地理标志产品, dìlǐ biāozhì chǎnpǐn). In 2008, its production technology was included in the Second Registry of National-Level Intangible Cultural Heritage Objects of the PRC, and in 2022 — in the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity as part of the nomination “Traditional tea processing techniques and associated social practices in China.”

• Origin: China, Zhèjiāng Province (浙江, Zhèjiāng), Hángzhōu City (杭州, Hángzhōu), vicinity of West Lake (西湖, Xīhú). The production territory covers the Xihu, Xiaoshan, Yuhang districts and 18 other counties of Hangzhou City, divided into three major zones: Xīhú (西湖), Qiantang (钱塘) and Yuèzhōu (越州). Only tea from the Xihu zone has the right to the full name “Xi Hu Longjing.”

• Geographic coordinates: Approximately 30°15′ North latitude, 120°10′ East longitude.

2. History and Cultural Significance:

• History: The history of Longjing spans more than 1200 years, and it is precisely expressed by the ancient formula: “The name originated in Song, became famous in Yuan, flourished in Ming, reached its peak in Qing” (始于宋，闻于元，扬于明，盛于清). The first written evidence of tea cultivation in this region belongs to Lù Yǔ (陆羽, Lù Yǔ): in “The Classic of Tea” (茶经, Chá Jīng), written during the Tang era (618–907), he mentions that tea was produced at the Tiānzhù (天竺) and Lingyin (灵隐) temples in the vicinity of Hangzhou. During the Northern Song period (960–1127), local teas “Xianglin” (香林茶), “Baiyun” (白云茶) and “Baoyun” (宝云茶) were already supplied to the court as “tribute tea” (贡茶, gòngchá), and poet Sū Dōngpō (苏东坡, Sū Dōngpō) praised Hangzhou tea in verse. It was during the Northern Sòng that monk Biàncái (辩才, Biàncái) established tea plantations on the slope of Shīfēng Mountain (狮峰) near Longjing village, which is considered the earliest documented record of tea cultivation and production in this village.

  Longjing gained its greatest fame during the Qing dynasty (1644–1912). Emperor Qiánlóng (乾隆, Qiánlóng) visited Longjing four times, composed tea poems and granted eighteen tea bushes near Hugongmiao Temple (胡公庙) on Shifeng Mountain the status of “imperial tea” (御茶, yùchá) — tea from these bushes was intended exclusively for the imperial court.

  In modern times, Longjing continued to gain recognition: in 1915 it received a gold award at the Panama-Pacific International Exposition. In 2022, the production technology of Xi Hu Longjing as part of the nomination “Traditional tea processing techniques and associated social practices in China” (中国传统制茶技艺及其相关习俗) was included in the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

• Name:

  • “Xi Hu” (西湖) — “West Lake,” indicates the geographical origin of the tea.
  • “Longjing” (龙井) — “Dragon Well.” Several legends exist explaining this name:
    • Dragon legend: In Lóngjǐng village (龙井村, Lóngjǐng Cūn), located at the foot of Shifeng Mountain, there was an ancient well in which, according to legend, a dragon dwelt that could summon rain. Local residents came to the well to pray for moisture in dry years.
    • Water movement: According to another version, the name is connected to the unusual movement of water in the well: when stirred, a winding pattern appeared on the surface, resembling dragon movements.
    • Leaf shape: There is also an interpretation connecting the name to the elegant flat shape of the tea leaf, reminiscent of a dragon’s body curve.

• Cultural significance: Longjing is a symbol of Hangzhou and all of Zhejiang Province, an integral part of Chinese literary, aesthetic and philosophical tradition. The tea is regularly presented as a state gift to foreign guests. An annual festival dedicated to Longjing picking is held in Hangzhou, and the city bears the unofficial title of “tea capital” (茶都, chádū) of China.

3. Botanical Description and Raw Material:

• Variety / Cultivar: Several varieties of tea bush Camellia sinensis var. sinensis are used for producing Xi Hu Longjing:

  • Lóngjǐng Qúntǐzhǒng (龙井群体种, Lóngjǐng Qúntǐzhǒng) — local indigenous variety (群体种 — seed propagated). Possesses high resistance to adverse conditions, gives complex multi-layered aroma with rich floral palette. Picking begins after Qīngmíng (清明, Qīngmíng), i.e., not earlier than early April. Valued by connoisseurs for depth and complexity of taste. Spring tea from this variety contains approximately 3.7% amino acids, 18.5% polyphenols, 12.1% catechins and 4.0% caffeine (calculated on dry leaf at “one bud, two leaves” standard).
  • Longjing 43 (龙井43, Lóngjǐng 43) — clonal variety developed by the Tea Research Institute of the Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences. Belongs to super-early varieties (特早生, tè zǎoshēng): picking begins as early as late March. Leaves are distinguished by uniformity and elegant form, aroma — pronounced, clean, with bright note of green beans (豆香, dòuxiāng). Currently — the most widespread cultivar in Longjing production.
  • Lóngjǐng Chǎng Yè (龙井长叶, Lóngjǐng Chángyè) — “Long Leaf Longjing,” distinguished by more elongated leaf shape.
  • Jiūkēng Zhǒng (鸠坑种, Jiūkēng Zhǒng) — ancient local variety from Jiukeng district, rare and valued by collectors.

• Picking: Picking begins in early spring. The most valuable is tea picked before the Qīngmíng festival (清明, Qīngmíng; ~April 5) — such tea is called “mingqiancha” (明前茶, Míngqián chá). It consists of the most tender shoots — full buds or one bud with one barely opened leaf, possesses delicate fresh aroma and belongs to the highest quality category. Tea picked before Gǔ Yǔ (谷雨, Gǔyǔ; ~April 20) — “yuqiancha” (雨前茶, Yǔqián chá) — consists of one bud with one-two leaves, gives more saturated and full taste, and is significantly more affordable in price.

• Picking standard: Traditionally picked one bud and one-two upper leaves (一芽一叶, yī yá yī yè or 一芽二叶, yī yá èr yè). For highest grades — only bud with one barely unfolded leaf, or exclusively buds.

• Raw material requirements: Highest. Only tender, undamaged buds and leaves of uniform size are used, without coarse leaves, stems and impurities. Freshly picked raw material must be processed on the same day.

4. Terroir and Cultivation Features:

• Climate: Hangzhou is located in the subtropical monsoon climate zone. Average annual temperature — about 16°C, annual precipitation — about 1500 mm, relative humidity — over 78%. In spring the region is often shrouded in fog, daily temperature fluctuations are 8–12°C, which favors the accumulation of L-theanine (tea amino acid) in leaves. A local saying describes this microclimate: “In clear weather — morning and evening fog everywhere, in cloudy weather — all day mountains in clouds” (晴时早晚遍地雾，阴雨成天满山云).

• Growing altitude: 100–800 meters above sea level. The main mass of tea gardens is located at elevations of 100–200 m on hilly slopes.

• Soils: Weakly acidic red soils (红壤, hóng rǎng) with pH 4.5–6.0, rich in organic matter and minerals. Soil acidity and mineral composition play a key role in forming the characteristic flavor profile of the tea.

• Production zones and key micro-regions (核心产区):

  • Shīfēng Shān (狮峰山, Shīfēng Shān) — “Lion Peak”: Considered the best terroir for Longjing. Tea from this zone has characteristic unpolished rice color (糙米色, cāomǐ sè) — yellow-green shade, dense saturated taste with orchid note.
  • Longjing Cun / Wengjiasan (龙井村/翁家山, Lóngjǐng Cūn / Wēngjiāshān): Historical place of tea origin. Leaf flat, smooth; taste fresh, sweetish and soft.
  • Meijiayu (梅家坞, Méijiāwù): Largest tea village. Tea distinguished by emerald-green color, elegant leaf shape and persistent clean aroma.
  • Yúnqī (云栖, Yúnqī): Tea with even, uniform leaf and pronounced bean aroma.
  • Hǔpǎo (虎跑, Hǔpǎo): Tea with transparent, light liquor and prolonged sweet aftertaste. In combination with local Hupao spring water forms the famous “double jewel of Hangzhou” (杭州双绝).

5. Production Technology:

The production of Xi Hu Longjing is true artistry, requiring years of experience and mastery. Unlike many green teas twisted into needles or spirals, Longjing is shaped into flat leaves by pressing against the walls of a heated wok. The entire process is performed by hand, from picking to final drying.

• Picking (采摘 — cǎi zhāi): Hand picking is conducted in early morning hours. Bud with one-two leaves is picked, strictly selecting raw material for uniformity and freshness.

• Withering / spreading (摊放 — tān fàng): Picked leaves are spread in a thin layer in shade in a cool room for several hours (usually 6–12 hours) to remove excess moisture and begin aroma development. During this time, water content in leaves decreases by approximately 15–20%.

• “Kill-green” and shaping — Qinguo (青锅 — qīngguō): Main stage combining fixation (杀青, shāqīng) and primary shaping (整形, zhěngxíng). Leaves are pan-fired in heated cast iron woks at temperature 70–80°C. The master manually presses leaves to the bottom and walls of the wok, giving them characteristic flat shape. At this stage enzyme oxidation is stopped and fresh aromatics are fixed.

• Moisture redistribution — Huícháo (回潮 — huícháo): After primary pan-firing, the semi-finished product is gathered in piles and left for some time. Moisture from stems redistributes to the leaf surface, equalizing overall humidity and making the leaf more pliable for further processing.

• Final pan-firing and aroma development — Huīguō (辉锅 — huīguō): Final pan-firing at lower temperature — below 60°C. At this stage final taste and aroma are formed: the leaf acquires smoothness, luster and density. Here the master displays highest mastery, controlling ten canonical hand techniques (十大手法, shí dà shǒufǎ): “shaking” (抖, dǒu), “overlaying” (搭, dā), “pressing” (捺, nà), “swinging” (甩, shuǎi), “pushing” (推, tuī), “clasping” (扣, kòu), “flattening” (拓, tuò), “pressing down” (压, yā), “rubbing” (磨, mó), “rolling” (搓, cuō). The entire process requires complete absence of burning — the slightest burnt smell is considered a defect.

• Sifting (分筛 — fēn shāi): Finished tea is sifted, separated by size and tea dust is sieved out.

• Leveling and finishing (挺长头 — tǐng chángtóu): Larger fractions are returned to the wok for additional refinement.

• Batch blending (归堆 — guīduī): Uniform fractions are mixed to obtain stable quality of commercial batch.

• “Ash collection” — aging with quicklime (收灰 — shōuhuī): Final stage — finished tea is placed in clay vessels with quicklime (生石灰) and aged for about a week. Lime draws out residual moisture and “fire taste” (火气, huǒqì), allowing the aroma to become cleaner and more refined. This is a traditional technique unique to Longjing.

6. Organoleptic Characteristics:

• Dry leaf appearance: Flat, smooth, even, pointed leaves resembling “sparrow tongues” (雀舌, quèshé) or “sword blade.” Size uniform, leaf straight and sharp (挺直尖削). Color — from tender green with luster (嫩绿光润) to characteristic yellow-green shade of “unpolished rice” (糙米色, cāomǐ sè) — the latter especially typical for tea from Shifeng Mountain. Leaf surface smooth, may have light oily luster.

• Dry leaf aroma: Fresh, clean, with characteristic note of green bean flowers (豆花香, dòuhuā xiāng) — reminiscent of fresh pea pods or green beans. In highest grades of spring tea — tender chestnut note (嫩栗香, nèn lì xiāng). Light floral nuance may be present, reminiscent of orchid (for tea from Shifeng Mountain). Traditional technology does not permit pronounced “fire” aroma.

• Liquor aroma: Clean, persistent, fresh. The same notes dominate — bean floral aroma, tender green sweetness, light chestnut roast. In tea from Shifeng zone — noticeable orchid nuance. Aroma unfolds gradually with each infusion.

• Taste: Rich but delicate. Freshness is perceptible (鲜爽, xiānshuǎng) — characteristic “umami” note due to high amino acid content. Sweet aftertaste with soft, enveloping sweetness (甘醇, gānchún — “sweet mellowness”). Medium body, balanced (醇厚, chúnhòu — “dense mellowness”), without pronounced astringency. Long, refreshing aftertaste with returning sweetness (回甘, huígān). The bouquet contains distinguishable notes of roasted chestnuts, fresh greens, orchid.

• Liquor color: Light green, clean and transparent, with tender yellowish-green shade (嫩绿明亮). In highest grade teas — crystal clear, “alive.”

• Spent leaves (wet leaves): Even, whole, elastic leaves and buds of light green color, preserving the form “one bud — one leaf.” Leaf tender, uniform, without damage.

7. Chemical Composition:

Xi Hu Longjing is distinguished by high content of biologically active substances. Chemical profile depends on cultivar, picking season and processing technology, however characteristic indicators can be provided:

• Polyphenols (catechins): Tea polyphenol content comprises approximately 13–20% of dry mass. Dominant component — epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), providing powerful antioxidant properties. Catechin content in Quntizhong variety — about 12.1%. Thanks to early spring picking and gentle technology, the ratio of polyphenols to amino acids (酚氨比, fēn’ān bǐ) remains moderately low, which provides characteristic soft sweetness without pronounced bitterness.

• Amino acids: High content — up to 4.46% (according to research of 20 famous Chinese green teas — highest indicator among studied samples). L-theanine (茶氨酸, chá’ānjīsuān) predominates, comprising over 50% of amino acid profile. L-theanine is responsible for the sensation of freshness, “umami” and mild relaxing effect.

• Alkaloids: Caffeine content — approximately 4.0–4.8% of dry mass (according to scientific publications — up to 4.81%, one of the highest indicators among Chinese green teas). Theobromine and theophylline are also present in smaller quantities.

• Vitamins: Vitamin C — 100–300 mg per 100 g dry tea (in fresh leaf of “one bud — one leaf” standard — over 1%). B vitamins: B₁ (thiamine) — ≈0.5 mg/100 g, B₂ (riboflavin) — ≈1.5 mg/100 g, B₃ (pantothenic acid) — ≈1.8 mg/100 g, PP (nicotinic acid) — ≈6.5 mg/100 g. Also contains vitamin A, vitamin E, folic acid.

• Minerals: Fluorine (promotes dental enamel protection), potassium, magnesium, zinc, iron, manganese, selenium.

• Essential oils and other components: Volatile aromatic compounds include linalool, geraniol and other terpenoids forming the characteristic floral-bean bouquet. Water-soluble sugars and pectins are also contained, giving the liquor soft “body.”

• Note: indicators substantially depend on cultivar, picking season, plantation altitude and processing technology. Spring tea from Quntizhong, as a rule, has the highest level of amino acids and most balanced profile.

8. Health Properties:

• Powerful antioxidant action: Catechins, especially EGCG, effectively neutralize free radicals, slowing oxidative stress and cellular aging processes.

• Tonic effect and cognitive function improvement: Caffeine stimulates the central nervous system, increasing concentration, performance and reaction speed. L-theanine softens caffeine’s action, providing gentle, even energy lift without sharp peak and crash.

• Cardiovascular system strengthening: Polyphenols and vitamin C help reduce “bad” cholesterol (LDL) levels, strengthen vessel walls and normalize blood pressure.

• Digestion improvement: Stimulates secretion of digestive enzymes, promotes breakdown of proteins and fats, helps with feeling of heaviness after meals.

• Antibacterial action: Tea polyphenols and tannins suppress growth of pathogenic bacteria, freshen breath (eliminate bad breath).

• Metabolism support and weight control: Caffeine and catechins accelerate metabolism and promote fat breakdown.

• Diuretic action: Theobromine and theophylline provide mild diuretic effect, promoting elimination of excess fluid.

• Tooth protection: Contained fluorine strengthens dental enamel and increases resistance to caries.

• Important: listed properties are based on publicly available data about green tea composition and are not medical recommendations.

9. Brewing:

• Water temperature: 80–90°C (recommendation for highest grades — 85°C; use water cooled after boiling for ~2 minutes). Water should not be rolling boil — overheating destroys delicate aroma and increases bitterness.

• Tea quantity: 3 g per 150 ml water.

• Teaware: Glass tumbler (玻璃杯, bōli bēi) — best option for observing “dance” of leaves in water. White porcelain gàiwǎn (白瓷盖碗, bái cí gàiwǎn) of 150 ml volume also suitable — allows more precise control of steeping time and better evaluation of aroma.

• Process:

  1. Warm teaware with hot water, drain.
  2. Add 3 g tea to glass or gaiwan.
  3. Pour water to 1/3 volume — swirl vessel, “moistening” tea (润茶摇香, rùnchá yáoxiāng) and releasing first aroma notes.
  4. Add water to 7/10 volume.
  5. First infusion — 1–2 minutes.
  6. Subsequent steeps — increase time by 30 seconds. Tea withstands 3 full brewings.

• Note: new tea (fresh harvest) is recommended to age 1–2 weeks before consumption so “fire taste” (火气) from pan-firing dissipates — this reduces stomach burden. Strong Longjing is not recommended on empty stomach. Light cloudiness of cooled liquor (茶乳凝, chá rǔ níng — “tea milk precipitation”) is normal physical phenomenon not affecting quality.

10. Storage:

• Store in airtight container — porcelain, glass or tin canister — in dry, cool and dark place, away from foreign odors.
• Optimal storage temperature — 0–5°C (refrigerator), in separate compartment, excluding contact with products having strong odors. Low temperature is critically important for preserving freshness of spring green teas.
• Avoid exposure to light, moisture and heat — main “enemies” of green tea.
• Traditional method: storage in clay vessels with quicklime (or silica gel) for humidity control. Lime should be replaced every 1–2 months; silica gel — after color change (can be dried and reused).
• Storage period under proper conditions — up to 18 months, however for maximum enjoyment recommended to consume within 6–8 months after picking.

11. Market and Price Range:

Xi Hu Longjing is one of the most expensive teas in the world. Price is determined by several key factors: production zone (tea from core Xihu zone costs 30% and more than from Qiantang and Yuezhou zones), picking time (mingqiancha costs several times more than yuqiancha), cultivar (Quntizhong is valued higher than Longjing 43), hand or machine processing, as well as quality grade. Tea garden area in Xihu zone comprises only about 1524 hectares, which sharply limits production volume of authentic Xi Hu Longjing.

• How to avoid counterfeits:

  • Buy from verified sellers specializing in quality Chinese teas, and verify presence of geographical indication hologram with unique code (scanned for authenticity verification).
  • Evaluate appearance: authentic high-quality Longjing has even flat shape, whole leaf, without abundance of dust. Bright green color without yellow shades may indicate tea not from Xihu zone or machine production.
  • Evaluate aroma: real Longjing smells of fresh greens and beans, without sharp foreign notes and “chemical” smell.
  • Evaluate liquor: clean, transparent, light green. Cloudy or dull liquor — reason for doubt.
  • Pay attention to price: suspiciously low price — sure sign of counterfeit. If “Xi Hu Longjing” is offered at ordinary tea price — this is most likely tea from outer production zones or from another region entirely.
  • Market appearance time: real Xi Hu Longjing from core zone appears no earlier than late March. “First picking” in early March with “Xihu” marking — almost certainly tea from Qiantang or Yuezhou zones.

12. Authenticity Identification:

• The eighteen “imperial” tea bushes granted by Qianlong still grow on Lion Peak (Shifeng) near Hugongmiao Temple and are enclosed by stone fence. Tea from them is not sold — it remains a symbol and attraction.

• Traditional “ten hand techniques” of Longjing pan-firing are passed from master to student through generations. Best masters can pan-fire about 250 g finished tea in one session (approximately 40–50 minutes continuous hand work on heated wok). In one day an experienced master can process no more than 2–2.5 kg finished tea.

• The China National Tea Museum (中国茶叶博物馆, Zhōngguó Cháyè Bówùguǎn) is located in Hangzhou — the country’s only state museum dedicated to tea culture, with two campuses: Shuangfeng and Longjing.

• The combination of Lóngjǐng with spring water from Hǔpǎo Spring (虎跑泉, Hǔpǎo Quán) is called “double jewel of Hangzhou” (杭州双绝) — this is one of the most famous gastronomic combinations in Chinese tea culture.

• According to the grading system by standard GB/T 18650-2008, Longjing is divided into six quality levels: from “Supreme” (特级, tèjí) to “Fifth” (五级). For Xi Hu Longjing according to industry standard GH/T 1115-2015, the category “Jingpin” (精品, jīngpǐn) — “masterpiece” is added, above Supreme class, from the earliest and most tender shoots.

13. Comparison with other famous Chinese green teas:

• Bìluóchūn (碧螺春, Bìluó Chūn): From Jiangsu Province. Unlike flat Longjing, twisted into tight spirals with abundant down. Aroma more floral-fruity, taste — sweetish and soft, with pronounced fruity notes. Longjing — more “structured,” with chestnut roast.

• Huángshān Máofēng (黄山毛峰, Huángshān Máo Fēng): From Anhui Province. Leaf twisted in form of “bird tongues” with abundant white down. Aroma softer and more floral, taste — tender and delicate, less saturated than Longjing. Longjing distinguished by more pronounced “umami” note and chestnut aftertaste.

• Liu’an Guāpiàn (六安瓜片, Liù’ān Guā Piàn): From Anhui Province. Unique in being made only from leaves, without buds and stems. Shape — flat “melon seeds.” Aroma dense, grassy; taste rich and full, with notes of roasted seeds. Longjing — more refined and fresh.

• Tàipíng Hóukuí (太平猴魁, Tàipíng Hóu Kuí): From Anhui Province. Distinguished by large flat leaves (largest among famous green teas). Taste — pronounced orchid aroma and deep, somewhat grassy taste. Longjing — more compact and “beany” in aroma.

• Ānjí Bái Chá (安吉白茶, Ānjí Bái Chá): From Zhejiang Province. Despite the word “white” in the name, belongs to green teas. Made from albino shoots with exceptionally high amino acid content (6–7%). Taste — bright-sweet, with pronounced “umami.” Longjing possesses more complex chestnut-bean profile, while Anji Bai Cha — emphasized “sweet freshness.”

In conclusion:

Xi Hu Longjing is not simply a beverage, but living cultural heritage recognized at the highest world level. In its flat jade leaf are enclosed centuries of mastery of Hangzhou tea craftsmen, the unique microclimate of West Lake and the philosophy of harmony between nature and humanity. Fresh bean-chestnut aroma, delicate sweetish taste with long returning aftertaste and crystal-clear greenish liquor — all this makes Longjing an ideal choice for those seeking purity and elegance in a cup of green tea. Brew it with soft water, do not overheat and do not hurry — and this tea will reveal to you that very quiet beauty which Chinese poets and emperors have admired for centuries.