Xīshān chá

Xīshān Chá (西山茶, Xīshān chá) — a famous Guangxi green tea, born on the sacred Buddhist mountain Xīshān (西山, “Western Mountain”), where temples, the healing spring Rǔquán (乳泉, “Milk Spring”) and thousand-year-old tea bushes form an inseparable whole. The tea was planted by Tang dynasty monks, during the Qing it was included among the “24 Great Teas of the Empire” (全国二十四名茶) and was supplied to the court as tribute tea. In the 1950s, nuns Kuanneng and Changhui sent tea to Mao Zedong three times, receiving his reply: “Good tea, not inferior to Longjing” (好茶，可与龙井媲美). In 2021, Xishan Cha was included in the China-EU mutual recognition list of geographical indications — the only tea from Guigang city with such status. The unique phenomenon of “four seasons — four aromas” (四季四香): spring tea — qingxiang, summer — pear, autumn — deep, winter — lotus.

1. Classification and Origin:

• Type: Green tea (non-oxidized, 绿茶, lǜchá). Kill-green fixation — pan-firing in iron wok (铁锅, tiěguō) at 180°C, method of “shake + smother” (抖闷结合, dǒu mèn jiéhé). Shape — twisted threads (条索形, tiáosuǒ xíng).

• Category: Geographical indication product (国家地理标志保护产品, since 2010); included in China-EU mutual recognition registry of geographical indications (中欧地理标志互认名录, 2021). Intangible cultural heritage of Guigang city (2019). Twice “National Famous Tea of China” (全国名茶, 1986, 1990). One of 21 historical famous teas of China and one of the “24 Great Teas” of the Qing empire.

• Origin: China; Guǎngxī Zhuāng Autonomous Region (广西壮族自治区, Guǎngxī); Guiping county-level city (桂平市, Guìpíng Shì), part of Guigang prefecture-level city (贵港市, Guìgǎng Shì). Protection zone — entire territory of Guiping (26 townships and towns, 4074 km²). Quality core — Xīshān mountain (西山, ancient name 思灵山, Sīlíng Shān), area of Chess Stone (棋盘石, Qípán Shí), Milk Spring (乳泉井, Rǔquán Jǐng) and Xǐshí hermitage (洗石庵, Xǐshí Ān) — at altitude up to 700 m, in the primeval forest zone.

• Geographic coordinates: ~23°10′–24°10′ N, 109°30′–110°30′ E (Guiping territory).

2. History and Cultural Significance:

• History:

Xishan Cha is one of the oldest documented teas of Guangxi. According to the county gazetteer “Guiping Xianzhi” (《桂平县志》), “tea from Xishan grows at Chess Stone, Milk Spring and under Guanyin Rock — low bushes, roots absorb stone essence, leaves reflect morning sun, therefore taste is sweet and rich, and aroma is fragrant” (西山茶，出西山棋盘石、乳泉井、观音岩下，矮株散植，根吸石髓，叶映朝暾，故味甘腴，而气芬芳). The beginning of cultivation dates to the Tang era (7th–9th centuries), when high-ranking monk Lì Mingyuan (李明远) brought tea seeds from Jiangnan and planted them at Chess Stone — the legendary place where, according to legend, immortals played chess and drank heavenly tea, and a passing woodcutter spent one day beside them, returning to the world after a hundred years.

By the Ming era the tea was famous throughout southern China — in Guangdong, Hunan, Fujian. During the Qing, Xishan Cha was included in the list of “24 Great Teas of the Empire” and became tribute tea (贡茶). The gazetteer “Xunzhou Fuzhi” (《浔州府志》) from the Guangxu period recorded: “Xishan tea — color is pure and green, aroma is fragrant, not inferior to Longjing” (西山茶，色清而味芬芳，不减龙井).

In the 20th century the tea experienced decline, but was revived through the efforts of Buddhist nuns. In 1949, nun Kuānnéng (释宽能, Shì Kuānnéng), invited by the famous Buddhist reformer Juzan (释巨赞), arrived at Xīshān and together with nun Chānghuì (释昌慧, Shì Chānghuì) restored the tea gardens at Chess Stone and Xishi hermitage. In the 1950s they sent select tea to Mao Zedong three times, and the Chairman replied: “Good tea, not inferior to Longjing” (好茶，可与龙井媲美), calling for expanded production.

International recognition: 1986, 1990 — “National Famous Tea of China” (Ministry of Commerce); 2010 — geographical indication of China; 2021 — inclusion in China-EU mutual recognition registry of geographical indications (first and only tea from Guigang in this list). By 2023, tea garden area — 20,500 mu (≈1367 ha), annual volume — 1069 tons.

• Name: 西山 (Xīshān) — “Western Mountain” — famous Buddhist mountain in Guiping, one of four “Great Southern Buddhist Places” (南方四大佛教名山). Ancient name — Silingshan (思灵山, “Mountain of Thoughtful Spirit”); 茶 (Chá) — “tea”. Alternative names: Qípán Chá (棋盘茶, “Chess Tea”) and Qípán Xiānmíng (棋盘仙茗, “Immortal Tea from the Chess Board”) — after the legend of the immortals.

• Cultural significance: Xishan Cha is one of the few Chinese teas inseparably connected with Buddhist culture. The tradition of “禅茶一味” (chán chá yī wèi, “Chan and tea are of one taste”) has been alive here since Tang times: monks and nuns not only grew and processed tea, but also used it as an instrument of meditation. The Milk Spring Ruquan is a famous natural attraction of Guangxi: its water, white as milk, is considered ideal for brewing Xishan Cha. A local saying states: “The mountain has good scenery, tea has good taste” (山有好景，茶有佳味). In the 1950s the tea was sent as a gift to the King of Morocco — one of the early examples of China’s “tea diplomacy.”

3. Botanical Description and Raw Material:

• Variety / cultivar: Guìpíng Xīshān group variety (桂平西山茶群体种, Guìpíng Xīshān Chá Qúntǐzhǒng) — local bush small-leaf variety Camellia sinensis var. sinensis. Leaves elliptical, dark green, with abundant down. Weight of 100 shoots “bud + 3 leaves” — ~46 g. Biochemical profile: amino acids ≥3.2%, polyphenols ≥27.5% (spring raw material). Water-extractable substances ~50% — exceptionally high indicator.

• Picking: Practically year-round — from late February to November, 20–30 batches per season. Four seasons give four different aromatic profiles: spring — qingxiang (清香, pure green), summer — lixiang (梨香, pear), autumn — chunxiang (醇香, deep/creamy), winter — hexiang (荷香/莲香, lotus).

• Picking standard: Highest grade — single buds or bud with one half-opened leaflet. Length — ≤4 cm. Uniformity in size, length and color required.

• Raw material requirements: Tender, whole, fresh shoots. Hand picking — exclusively by hand, without scissors. Careful transport in bamboo baskets without damage or crushing.

4. Terroir and Cultivation:

Guiping is located in southern Guangxi, on the banks of the Xúnjiāng River (浔江), tributary of the great Xījiāng (西江). Xishan mountain is an isolated mountain massif among plains, creating its own microclimate.

• Growing altitude: Up to 700 m (core zone — Chess Stone, Milk Spring, Guanyin Rock). Main plantations — 200–700 m.

• Climate: Southern subtropical. Average annual temperature 21.4°C; precipitation 1700–2400 mm/year (one of the wettest tea regions of China); foggy days >200 per year; frost-free period 354 days. Peculiarity — “夏不热而秋热，冬不寒而春寒” (“summer not hot but autumn hot; winter not cold but spring cold”) — inverted temperature regime, stimulating unusual accumulation of aromatic substances.

• Soils: Yellow-red sandy loams (黄红砂壤), formed by granite weathering. pH 4.5–6.5, organic matter 2–3%. Good drainage, enriched with minerals from granite substrate. Core zone — water protection area (水源保护区), where chemical fertilizers and pesticides are prohibited.

• Ecology: Core gardens are located among primeval forest on Xishan slopes, near Ruquan spring. High humidity, diffused light (>70% of light flow) and constant fogs create ideal conditions for synthesis of amino acids and aromatic compounds. Irrigation water — from Milk Spring, mineralized with calcium and magnesium. Xishan mountain is one of the most important Buddhist sanctuaries of Southern China, which ensures strict ecological control: the territory is a national protected zone with restrictions on economic activity. This is a natural guarantee of environmental purity, additional to geographical indication standards.

5. Production Technology:

Xishan Cha is produced using traditional technology, included in the registry of intangible cultural heritage of Guigang (2019). Key features — method of “two firings and two rollings” (二炒二揉, èr chǎo èr róu), use exclusively of bamboo and wooden utensils and final “light rolling to reveal down” (轻揉显毫).

• Picking (采摘): Hand picking, standard “bud + one-two leaves”, ≤4 cm.

• Withering (摊青 — tān qīng): 4–6 hours on bamboo trays.

• First firing / kill-green (杀青 — shāqīng): In iron wok at 180°C, by method of “shake + smother” (抖闷结合) — alternating tossing of leaf in air and pressing it to hot surface. Combination of techniques “lift, throw, shake, cast off” (扬、抛、抖、甩).

• First rolling (揉捻): Light hand rolling — formation of thread-like structure.

• Second firing (初炒 — chū chǎo): Shape fixation.

• Drying on bamboo racks (烘焙 — hōngbèi): At 80°C on traditional bamboo basket-braziers (竹焙笼, zhú bèi lóng).

• Final firing / aroma development (复炒 — fù chǎo): Last “finishing” firing to form chestnut and floral-fruity aroma. Moisture content ≤5%.

• Note: The entire process is conducted without metal tools (except iron wok for fixation) — bamboo and wooden implements exclude contact with oxidizing metals. This principle echoes the “Three NOTs” (三不原则) of Xinyi He Luo Green Tea: both traditions independently arrived at the same conclusion — contact of tea with metal deteriorates polyphenol quality.

6. Organoleptic Characteristics:

• Dry leaf appearance: Thin, tight, slightly curved threads (紧细微曲), dark green with silvery down (黛绿显毫). “Dragon spiral” (龙卷状, lóng juǎn zhuàng) — characteristic shape with pointed tips. Silver tips cover the tops.

• Dry leaf aroma: Depends on season. Spring — pure green (清香); summer — pear (梨香); autumn — deep creamy (醇香); winter — lotus (莲香/荷香). Persistent and multi-layered.

• Liquor aroma: Floral-fruity (花果香) — unique “four-season” characteristic, atypical for most green teas. With cooling, chestnut background emerges.

• Taste: Pure and harmonious (醇和, chún hé), with pronounced freshness (鲜爽) and long returning aftertaste (回甘持久). Full-bodied, but without coarse astringency. Endurance — 3–6 infusions.

• Liquor color: Emerald green, clear and bright (碧绿清澈).

• Spent leaves (wet leaves): Tender green, even, fresh and lively (嫩绿匀整鲜活).

7. Chemical Composition:

• Polyphenols (茶多酚): ≥27.5%; according to some data, up to 35.6% in core batches. Good balance with amino acids, ensuring softness without excessive astringency. High EGCG content.

• Amino acids (氨基酸): ≥3.2% (spring tea). L-theanine dominates.

• Water-extractable substances (水浸出物): ~50% — one of the highest indicators among green teas, testifying to exceptional richness and “density” of liquor.

• Caffeine (咖啡碱): ≥3.9% — above average, providing pronounced tonic effect.

• Vitamins: Vitamin C, B-group vitamins, vitamin E. Flavonoids.

• Minerals: Potassium, manganese, fluorine; traces of calcium and magnesium from granite soils and mineral water of Ruquan.

8. Health Properties:

• Antioxidant protection: Polyphenols (≥27.5%) + flavonoids + vitamin C — comprehensive protection from oxidative stress.

• Tonic effect: Caffeine (≥3.9%) in synergy with L-theanine — gentle, prolonged alertness.

• Cardiovascular system support: Catechins promote cholesterol regulation and vascular elasticity.

• Skin health: Flavonoids and vitamin C jointly inhibit oxidation and reduce UV damage — especially relevant for southern latitudes of Guangxi with intense solar radiation.

• Cognitive functions: L-theanine stimulates alpha-wave brain activity.

• Important: Listed properties are based on general data and are not medical recommendations. Not recommended to drink on empty stomach. Fresh tea should be aged 7 days to “discharge fire.” After opening — consume within 10 days.

9. Brewing:

• Water temperature: 80–85°C. Ideally — mineral water, close in composition to Ruquan (soft, slightly alkaline). Do not use boiling water (>85°C destroys active substances and causes bitterness).

• Tea amount: 3 g per 150 ml (ratio 1:50).

• Vessels: Glass tumbler — for observing “standing shoots” (芽叶竖立); white porcelain gaiwan.

• Process (glass tumbler):

  1. Warm the glass, pour out.
  2. Add tea, pour at 80–85°C.
  3. First infusion — 1–2 minutes. Observe unfolding of “standing shoots.”

• Process (gaiwan): Rinse 5 seconds → first steeping 20 seconds → each subsequent +10 seconds. 3–6 infusions.

10. Storage:

• Temperature: 0–5°C (refrigerator).
• Container: Airtight, without foreign odors.
• Light: Complete isolation.
• Term: Recommended to consume in first 6 months for maximum brightness of “four-season” aroma. Fresh tea — age 7 days “醒茶” (tea awakening) to discharge “fire.” Winter batches (lotus aroma) keep longer than spring ones due to lower moisture content.

11. Price and Counterfeits:

Xishan Cha is a tea of medium-high price segment. Highest grade — from 500 yuan/jin; first — 200–400 yuan/jin; second — below 200 yuan/jin.

• How to avoid counterfeits:

  • Check for geographical indication mark “西山茶”.
  • Visual marker — “dark green threads with silvery tips” (黛绿银尖). Absence of down — substitution.
  • Aroma — floral-fruity, persistent. “Hay-like” or “roasted” smell — not Xishan Cha.
  • Brewed in Milk Spring water (or soft mineral), tea reveals incomparable sweetness.

12. Interesting Facts:

• “Not inferior to Longjing”: This phrase was spoken twice — Qing county gazetteer (19th century) and Mao Zedong (1950s). Two centuries between them, but the assessment is the same: Xishan Cha is on the level of China’s best green tea.

• Four seasons — four aromas: Unique characteristic: spring — qingxiang (pure green), summer — pear, autumn — deep creamy, winter — lotus. This is a consequence of Xishan’s unusual inverted temperature regime.

• Legend of Chess Stone: According to legend, a woodcutter met two immortals playing chess on the mountain, tasted their tea and spent one day beside them — and returning, discovered that a hundred years had passed. Tea trees grew where he had forgotten his axe. Hence the tea’s second name — “Chess Tea” (棋盘茶).

• Milk Spring: Rǔquán (乳泉) — a spring with white, “milky” water, flowing from granite rocks of Xishan. Considered ideal water for brewing Xishan Cha; by mineral composition — close to the best mountain springs of Europe.

• Tea as diplomatic gift: In the 1950s Xishan Cha was gifted to the King of Morocco — one of the early episodes of China’s “tea diplomacy.” In 2021 inclusion in the China-EU registry opened the European market.

• Tea-growing nuns: The revival of Xishan Cha is the merit of two Buddhist nuns: Kuanneng and Changhui. In post-war years they restored destroyed gardens and developed the technique of “light rolling to reveal down” (轻揉显毫), which became the calling card of modern Xishan Cha.

13. Comparison with Other Green Teas of Guangxi:

• Sānjiāng Green Tea (三江绿茶, Sānjiāng Lǜchá): Guangxi, Liuzhou. More “northern” by location. Chestnut-orchid profile, endurance 5–7 infusions. Xishan — more “floral-fruity,” with unique lotus winter aroma. Sanjiang — mass production (215,000 mu); Xishan — boutique (20,500 mu), with higher status.

• Língyún White Down (凌云白毫, Língyún Báiháo): Guangxi, Baise. High-altitude (800–1500 m), from Lingyun White Down cultivar. More delicate, “silvery” tea with abundant down. Xishan — “warmer” in profile, with more complex aromatics and Buddhist cultural significance.

• West Lake Lóngjǐng (西湖龙井, Xīhú Lóngjǐng): Zhejiang. Comparison is inevitable: two gazetteers — Qing and Republican — assert that Xishan “is not inferior to Longjing,” and Mao Zedong confirmed this in the 20th century. Longjing — flat, chestnut-nutty; Xishan — twisted, floral-fruity. Longjing — significantly more expensive and famous; Xishan — less promoted, but with unique “four-season” aroma and Buddhist history, which Longjing lacks.

In Conclusion:

Xishan Cha is a tea born in prayer and mist: Tang monks planted it at Chess Stone, where according to legend immortals played chess, and the Milk Spring Ruquan has since nourished its roots with white mineral water. Over thirteen centuries it has been tribute tea during the Qing, received praise from Mao Zedong and entered the European registry — but its main miracle is not in awards, but in the “four aromas of four seasons”: pure green of spring, pear tenderness of summer, creamy depth of autumn and lotus coolness of winter. Brew at 80°C with soft water — and allow the tea from Western Mountain to tell you its thousand-year history, which began with a game of chess between two immortals.