Zhāngzhōu Sè Zhǒng

Zhangzhou Se Zhong is a unique blended oolong from southern Fujian, combining the character of several classic Minnan cultivars in one cup. Created by masters of the Zhangzhou Tea Factory in the 1950s, this tea became a symbol of traditional tea drinking in the region and the calling card of Zhangzhou “gongfu cha” (工夫茶, gōngfū chá).

1. Classification and Origin:

• Type: Oolong (semi-oxidized tea, 乌龙茶, wūlóng chá), oxidation level 20–50%. Blended product (拼配, pīnpèi) combining several varieties of Minnan oolong.
• Category: Mǐnnán oolongs (闽南乌龙, Mǐnnán wūlóng). Representative product of the Zhangzhou tradition of blended oolongs.
• Origin: China, Fújiàn Province (福建省, Fújiàn shěng), Zhāngzhōu Prefecture (漳州市, Zhāngzhōu shì). Production territory covers 11 counties and districts: Hua’an (华安县, Huá’ān xiàn), Nánjìng (南靖县, Nánjìng xiàn), Pínghé (平和县, Pínghé xiàn), Zhao’an (诏安县, Zhào’ān xiàn) and others.
• Core raw material zones: Hua’an — Xiāndū Township (华安县仙都镇, Huá’ān xiàn Xiāndū zhèn) — main supplier of Tieguanyin raw material; Nanjing — Shūyáng Township (南靖县书洋镇, Nánjìng xiàn Shūyáng zhèn) — Dangui; Pinghe — Qílǐng Township (平和县崎岭乡, Pínghé xiàn Qílǐng xiāng) — Bai Ya Qilan.
• Geographic coordinates: approximately 24°30′ N, 117°40′ E (center of Zhangzhou).

2. History and Cultural Significance:

• History: Zhangzhou’s tea tradition dates back to the Táng dynasty (唐朝, Táng cháo). In 686, under Empress Wǔ Zétiān (武则天, Wǔ Zétiān), General Chén Yuánguāng (陈元光, Chén Yuánguāng) established Zhangzhou Prefecture, after which tea culture began developing in the region. By the Sòng dynasty (宋代, Sòng dài), tea was grown in all counties of the prefecture. The flourishing of Zhāngzhōu tea cultivation came during the Míng dynasty (明代, Míng dài): oolong production technology was considered the best in Fujian, as evidenced by lines from the “Song of Wuyi Tea” (《武夷茶歌》, Wǔyí Chá Gē): “近时制法重清漳” — “Nowadays they value the methods of pure Zhangzhou.” During the Ming era, Yuegang Port (月港, Yuè gǎng) in Haicheng County became the world’s largest tea trade center: according to the “Haicheng County Gazetteer” (《海澄县志》), tea exports reached 300 tons per year.

  “Se Zhong” as a commercial category was directly created in 1954, when the Zhāngzhōu Tea Factory (漳州茶厂, Zhāngzhōu cháchǎng) was established. Factory masters systematized traditional techniques of Minnan tea trading houses and developed a stable blend of several oolong varieties (besides Tieguanyin), naming it “Se Zhong” — “colored varieties.” In 1956, during the collectivization of private enterprises, the factory absorbed the mastery of legendary tea houses such as “Qiyuan” (奇苑) and “Yuanmei” (源美).

  By the 1960s, “Se Zhong” together with “Liu Xiang” (流香, Liú Xiāng) and “Yi Zhi Chun” (一枝春, Yī Zhī Chūn) formed the famous trio of classic Zhangzhou teas. A popular saying went: “乘风飞马大前门，流香色种一枝春” — “Chengfeng, Feima, Daqianmen — Liuxiang, Sezhong, Yizhichun,” listing the most prestigious goods of the era alongside cigarettes. In 1983, “S201 — Se Zhong First Grade” was awarded the title “Excellent Product of Fujian Province.”

  In the export classification of Fujian oolongs, Se Zhong was marked with the letter “S” (色种), while Tieguanyin received “K” (观音), and Huangjingui — “H”. The code “S2xx” indicated Zhangzhou origin. From the 1970s to 1990s, Zhangzhou’s share comprised up to 40% of all Fujian oolong exports. In 2019, the technology of refining Zhāngzhōu oolong (漳州传统乌龙茶精制工艺, Zhāngzhōu chuántǒng wūlóng chá jīngzhì gōngyì) was included in the registry of intangible cultural heritage of Fujian Province (6th list). In 2024, Se Zhong was included in the “Registry of Representative Products of China’s Tea Genealogy.”

• Name: “Zhangzhou” (漳州) — the producing city; “Se” (色) — “color,” “variety,” “category”; “Zhong” (种) — “type,” “variety.” Thus, “Se Zhong” literally means “colored/diverse varieties” — a collective designation for all oolong cultivars beyond Tieguanyin, united in a single blend.

• Cultural significance: For the older generation of Zhangzhou residents, Se Zhong is inseparably linked with the tradition of “gongfu cha” (工夫茶, gōngfū chá) — the art of tea drinking, which was documented here during the Qing Emperor Qianlong’s reign (乾隆, Qiánlóng): in 1766, official Péng Guāngdǒu (彭光斗, Péng Guāngdǒu) described Zhangzhou gongfu cha in the manuscript “Min Suo Ji” (《闽琐记》). Tea is traditionally hand-packed in paper packets of one liang (50 g) — white bamboo paper inside, kraft with red-blue ornament outside. This “ancient” (古早, gǔzǎo) packaging became a recognizable symbol of Zhangzhou tea culture. For huáqiáo (华侨, huáqiáo) — Chinese emigrants in Southeast Asia — Se Zhong remains the taste of homeland: a significant portion of the factory’s production is exported to Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia, and Japan.

3. Botanical Description and Raw Material:

• Variety/Cultivar: Se Zhong is a blended product, based on local Fujian variety groups (Camellia sinensis var. sinensis). Main cultivars in the blend: — Huangjingui (黄金桂, Huángjīnguì), also known as Huángdàn (黄旦, Huángdàn) — small-leaf, highly aromatic, with pronounced osmanthus aroma; — Maoxie (毛蟹, Máoxiè) — distinguished by dense shoots with white hairs and jasmine aroma overtones; — Benshan (本山, Běnshān) — strong shoots resembling bamboo nodes, aroma similar to Tieguanyin but lighter; — Qilan (奇兰, Qílán) — thin shoots, pure high aroma with orchid tones; — Meizhan (梅占, Méizhàn) — large-leaf semi-woody variety, coarse powerful shoots, dense aroma with notes of linear incense (线香, xiànxiāng), rich concentrated taste. Blend proportions are determined by the master technologist and vary from batch to batch, ensuring balance of aroma, body, and aftertaste.
• Harvest: Main seasons — spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October). Spring harvest provides higher amino acid concentration and chestnut aroma overtones; autumn — pronounced florality. Summer harvest is also practiced.
• Harvest standard: One bud and two-three leaves (一芽二叶至三叶, yī yá èr yè zhì sān yè) for spring tea; two-four leaves are acceptable for obtaining richer body.
• Raw material requirements: Polyphenol content in fresh leaf ≥ 25%, amino acids ≥ 4.0% (source data). Shoots must be whole, evenly matured, without foreign odors and coarse stems.

4. Terroir and Cultivation:

• Region and topography: Raw material base is located in mountainous areas of southern Fujian — hilly and mid-mountain landscapes of Hua’an, Nanjing, and Pinghe counties. Tea gardens occupy slopes protected from direct winds, with sufficient diffused lighting.
• Growing altitude: 600–800 m above sea level for main raw material zones.
• Climate: Humid subtropical: average annual temperature 16–20°C, relative humidity ≥ 75%, over 200 foggy days per year. Significant difference between day and night temperatures slows consumption of accumulated metabolites and promotes formation of complex aromatics. Abundant diffused light (漫射光, mànshèguāng) stimulates accumulation of amino acids and aromatic precursors in the leaf.
• Soils: Red-yellow mountain soils (红黄壤, hóng huáng rǎng) with acidic reaction (pH 4.5–6.0) predominate, enriched with microelements — selenium and zinc. The core of tea plantations is located in water source protection zones, where chemical fertilizers and pesticides are prohibited; several farms practice the ecological closed-cycle model “pig farming → biogas → tea plantations” (猪–沼–茶, zhū–zhǎo–chá).

5. Production Technology:

Se Zhong production consists of two stages: primary processing of fresh leaf (初制, chūzhì) according to standard Mǐnnán oolong technology and subsequent refining with blending (精制拼配, jīngzhì pīnpèi) — the proprietary technology of Zhangzhou Tea Factory, recognized as intangible cultural heritage.

• Harvest / 采摘 (cǎizhāi): Top shoots are collected in morning hours and immediately delivered to the workshop, preventing overheating and “steaming” of raw material.
• Sun withering / 晒青 (shàiqīng): Sè Zhòng is characterized by intensive sūn withering (重晒, zhòng shài), which activates enzymes and lays the foundation for floral-fruity aromatics. The leaf loses part of its moisture and becomes pliable.
• Indoor withering / 晾青 (liàngqīng): After the sun phase, leaf is transferred to a ventilated room for moisture redistribution equalization.
• Alternating shaking and resting / 做青 (zuòqīng): 摇青 (yáoqīng) and 晾青 (liàngqīng): Key stage of aroma formation. Cycles of mechanical shaking in bamboo drums destroy cell walls at leaf edges, triggering partial oxidation. For Se Zhong, intensive shaking (重摇青, zhòng yáoqīng) is applied, promoting brighter and more complex floral-fruity profile than standard light Minnan oolongs.
• Kill-green / 杀青 (shāqīng): Heating stops enzymatic processes, fixing the achieved oxidation level and aroma direction.
• Rolling / 揉捻 (róuniǎn): Formation of characteristic twisted leaf shape; destruction of cell membranes increases extractability during brewing.
• Roasting-drying / 烘焙 (hōngbèi): Charcoal roasting at temperature ≤ 60°C (炭焙, tànbèi) — distinctive feature of the technology. Charcoal heat gives tea characteristic “fire aroma” (火功香, huǒgōng xiāng) and promotes long-term flavor stability. Throughout the entire process, bamboo and wooden utensils are used, excluding leaf contact with metal and associated oxidation.
• Blending / 拼配归堆 (pīnpèi guīduī): Final and defining stage. The master technologist (非遗传承人, fēiyí chuánchéngrén — “inheritor of intangible cultural heritage”) selects proportions of different cultivars, seasons, and plots, achieving harmony of aroma, body, and aftertaste. This stage distinguishes Se Zhong from single-variety oolongs and requires years of experience.

6. Organoleptic Characteristics:

• Dry leaf appearance: Tightly twisted, dense spirals (卷曲形, juǎnqū xíng); surface sandy-green with oily luster and light yellowish tint (砂绿油润带黄). Even calibration, uniform leaf.
• Dry leaf aroma: Pure, high, with dominance of floral tones: orchid in highest grades (兰花香, lánhuā xiāng), floral-fruity bouquet in standard batches (花果香), young chestnut in spring batches (嫩栗香, nèn lì xiāng).
• Liquor aroma: Multi-layered: in first infusions — fresh floral aromatics with notes of orchid and lilac; in middle ones — fruity sweetness with chestnut warmth; in final ones (with charcoal roasting) — warm nutty-caramel tones, emphasized by soft “fire aroma.”
• Taste: Full-bodied, 醇厚 (chúnhòu) — balance of richness and softness. Perceptible freshness (鲜爽, xiānshuǎng), provided by amino acids. Pronounced “returning aftertaste” (回甘, huígān) with distinct sugary sweetness. Light bitterness and astringency, characteristic primarily of the Maoxie portion in the blend, quickly transitioning to sweetness. Taste is stable throughout 6–8 infusions.
• Liquor color: Orange-yellow (橙黄, chéng huáng), clear, transparent and bright. In light versions — closer to light golden; in versions with deep charcoal roasting — rich amber.
• Spent leaves (wet leaves): Soft, elastic, even; characteristic sign of quality oolong — “green leaf with red rim” (绿叶红镶边, lǜ yè hóng xiāngbiān): leaf center retains green-olive color, while edges damaged during shaking are colored copper-brown.

7. Chemical Composition:

• Polyphenols (茶多酚, chá duōfēn): Content in fresh leaf ≥ 25% (according to raw material standard). After partial oxidation, catechins partially transform into theaflavins and thearubigins, reducing astringency and forming characteristic oolong softness. According to source data, in Se Zhong the effectiveness of fat breakdown by polyphenols is 30% higher than average oolong, which may be due to high catechin content with moderate oxidation.
• Amino acids (氨基酸, ānjīsuān): Content in raw material ≥ 4.0%. L-theanine (L-茶氨酸, L-chá ānjīsuān) — main amino acid responsible for soft sweetness and “background” relaxing effect. High-altitude origin of raw material (600–800 m) promotes increased free amino acid content due to enhanced nitrogen metabolism under diffused light conditions and temperature fluctuations.
• Alkaloids (生物碱, shēngwù jiǎn): Caffeine (咖啡碱, kāfēi jiǎn) — moderate level, typical for Minnan oolongs (approximately 2–4% dry weight). Theobromine (可可碱, kěkě jiǎn) and theophylline (茶碱, chá jiǎn) present in trace amounts.
• Vitamins: Vitamin C, B vitamins (B₁, B₂), vitamin E. Partial oxidation preserves more vitamin C than red teas (black tea), but less than green teas.
• Minerals: Potassium, calcium, magnesium, manganese, zinc, selenium (the latter two in elevated amounts due to mineral composition of red-yellow mountain soils of the region), iron, fluorine.
• Essential oils and aromatic compounds: Nerolidol (橙花叔醇, chénghuā shūchún), linalool (芳樟醇, fāngzhāng chún), geraniol (香叶醇, xiāngyè chún), indole, phenylethanol (苯乙醇, běn yǐ chún), jasmonic lactone and others. Intensive shaking during “zuoqing” promotes increased content of nerolidol and geraniol, forming the fruity-floral profile.
• Composition peculiarity: The blended character of Se Zhong combines chemical profiles of several cultivars, creating a more complex palette of amino acids and aromatic compounds than single-variety oolong.

8. Health Properties:

• Tonic effect and cognitive function support: Combination of caffeine and L-theanine provides gentle stimulation without sharp energy spikes and drops — alertness is accompanied by calm concentration.
• Antioxidant potential: Catechins, especially EGCG (epigallocatechin gallate), effectively neutralize free radicals, contributing to cell protection from oxidative stress.
• Lipid metabolism support: Oolong polyphenols promote cholesterol level normalization and accelerate fat metabolism. Traditionally, oolong is recommended as accompaniment to fatty food.
• Digestion: Warm infusion, especially in charcoal-roasted versions, stimulates digestive juice secretion and may alleviate bloating sensation after abundant meals.
• Oral cavity condition: Fluorine and catechins have moderate antibacterial action, positively affecting oral hygiene.
• Cardiovascular system: Regular moderate oolong consumption is associated with vascular elasticity support and blood pressure normalization — individually and within a balanced diet.
• Stress reduction: L-theanine promotes alpha brain wave production, associated with relaxed alertness state. The gongfu cha ritual itself serves as a form of mindful meditation.
• Metabolic process support: Moderate oolong consumption may promote thermogenesis — increased energy expenditure by the organism.

9. Brewing:

• Water temperature: 95–100°C. For charcoal-roasted versions use just-boiled water; for lighter batches, reduction to 90–95°C is acceptable.

• Tea amount: 5–8 g per 100 ml (gongfu method) or 3–4 g per 200–250 ml (universal method).

• Teaware: Gàiwǎn (盖碗, gàiwǎn) of white porcelain — universal choice, allowing aroma revelation and liquor color assessment. Yíxīng clay teapot (紫砂壶, zǐshā hú) is preferable for aged and charcoal-roasted versions: porous clay “remembers” aroma and adds softness. Chaohe (潮州罐, Cháozhōu guàn) — small gongfu teapot in Chaozhou style, traditional for the Minnan-Chaozhou region — is acceptable.

• Process:

  1. Warm gaiwan or teapot with hot water, drain.
  2. Add tea, cover with lid and gently shake — vessel warmth will reveal dry leaf aroma.
  3. Rinse (润茶, rùn chá): pour boiling water for 5 seconds, quickly drain. This infusion is not drunk — it “awakens” the leaf.
  4. First infusion: pour boiling water for 15–20 seconds, pour into cups.
  5. Subsequent infusions: increase time by 5–10 seconds with each infusion. Quality Se Zhong withstands 6–8 infusions.
  6. Enjoy the evolution: first infusions — floral brightness, middle ones — fruity depth, final ones — warm caramel softness.

• Notes: Do not pour steep boiling water (> 100°C) for light versions — this destroys delicate floral-fruity aromatics. Fresh tea is recommended to be kept in a dark place for 15 days to remove excessive “fire.”

10. Storage:

• Conditions: Airtight packaging (vacuum or foil zip bag), protection from moisture, foreign odors, direct light and heat. Optimal temperature — cool dry room (not above 25°C).
• Duration: Charcoal-roasted versions store longer than light ones (up to 2–3 years without significant quality loss with proper storage). Light “qingxiang” (清香, qīngxiāng) batches should preferably be consumed within 6–12 months.
• Peculiarity: After opening packaging, tea is recommended to be consumed within 7 days, since volatile aromatic compounds quickly dissipate. Traditional paper packaging of Zhāngzhōu Factory (白竹纸 + kraft) provides moderate air permeability, suitable for tea intended for quick consumption.
• Tea enemies: Moisture, high temperature, foreign odors, direct sunlight.

11. Price and Counterfeits:

• Price category: Se Zhong is historically positioned as affordable everyday oolong — “people’s price with professional quality.” Cost varies depending on grade (from third to special), harvest season, production year, and factory brand. Price for original factory production remains moderate compared to premium single-variety oolongs (highest grade Tieguanyin, Wuyi rock teas).
• How to avoid counterfeits:
  • Buy from sellers who can confirm origin: factory marking, export code of “S2xx” series, presence of “Zhishan” (芝山牌) or “Xiazhang” (霞漳牌) trademark.
  • Evaluate dry leaf uniformity: quality Se Zhong is distinguished by even calibration and uniform sandy-green color; size and color variation indicates low-grade raw material.
  • Check aroma: pure floral or floral-fruity tone without sharp “chemical” perfumery and mustiness.
  • Evaluate liquor: orange-yellow, clear, transparent and bright; cloudiness, dark brown color or sour taste — alarming signs.
  • Be suspicious of suspiciously low price, especially if seller claims “special grade” or “aged.”

12. Interesting Facts:

• The folk saying “乘风飞马大前门，流香色种一枝春” equated three teas from Zhangzhou Tea Factory with three most prestigious cigarette brands of the era, illustrating the status of these teas as luxury items for ordinary consumers of the 1960s–1970s.
• Zhangzhou Tea Factory was one of only three organizations in PRC possessing export “marking number” (唛号, mà hào) for oolongs — a privilege comparable to pu-erh factories Menghai and Xia Guan.
• Traditional hand packaging of Se Zhong by one liang (50 g) in paper packets continues to this day: three-four workers, sitting at a table, wrap one packet in thirty seconds — a rhythm unchanged for more than half a century.
• Lín Yànténg (林燕腾, Lín Yàn Téng), former factory director and fourth-generation tradition inheritor, is an official bearer of “provincial inheritor of intangible cultural heritage” status for Zhangzhou oolong refining technology.
• Yuegang Port (月港) in the Ming era shipped tea to 47 countries and regions, making Zhangzhou one of the world’s first international tea trade centers — long before the Cantonese “one port system.”

13. Varieties and Grades of Zhangzhou Se Zhong:

Se Zhong is classified on two bases: by predominant cultivar in the blend and by finished product grade.

By cultivar:

• Huangjingui/Huángdān (黄金桂/黄旦): Finely twisted spirals, delicate aroma resembling cinnamon flowers (桂花, guìhuā), fresh and invigorating taste.
• Máoxiè (毛蟹): Dense shoots with noticeable white hairs (白毫, báiháo), jasmine aroma with light fruity overtone, weak pleasant bitterness.
• Běnshān (本山): Strong shoots resembling bamboo nodes in shape, aroma close to Tieguanyin but more delicate.
• Qílán (奇兰): Thin elegant shoots, pure high orchid aroma, light body.
• Méizhàn (梅占): Coarse powerful shoots, dense aroma with linear incense note (线香香, xiànxiāng xiāng), rich concentrated taste.

By grade (according to DB35/T 943‑2009, sensory indicators):

• Special grade (特级, tèjí): Shoots tightly twisted, spiral-shaped; color sandy-green with oily luster. Aroma pure, high, with pronounced orchid. Taste fresh, 醇厚 (chúnhòu), sweet and invigorating.
• First grade (一级, yījí): Shoots firmly twisted, sandy-green. Aroma pure. Taste sufficiently full-bodied.
• Second grade (二级, èrjí): Shoots moderately twisted, with light green tint. Aroma moderate, less prolonged. Taste even.
• Third grade (三级, sānjí): Shoots twisted, dark with gloss. Aroma weaker. Taste still rich, but with light coarseness.

14. Comparison with Other Minnan Oolongs:

• Ānxī Tiěguānyīn (安溪铁观音, Ānxī Tiěguānyīn): Single-variety oolong from Anxi with “observational” guanyinyun (观音韵). Se Zhong — blended product from Zhangzhou, combining cultivars different from Tieguanyin. Se Zhong taste is more multifaceted due to blending, but less “pure” in single-variety sense.
• Yǒngchūn Fóshǒu (永春佛手, Yǒngchūn Fóshǒu): Large-leaf oolong from Yongchun with citrus-bergamot profile. Unlike it, Se Zhong relies on floral-fruity bouquet of several varieties and has more “even” character.
• Pínghé Bái Yá Qílán (平和白芽奇兰, Pínghé Bái Yá Qílán): Single-variety Qilan from Pinghe, one of Se Zhong blend components. As independent tea it demonstrates pure orchid aroma; in Se Zhong composition its character is complemented and “softened” by other cultivars.
• Liú Xiāng (流香, Liú Xiāng): “Sister” product of the same Zhangzhou Tea Factory. Usually positioned in higher price segment and may have different blend proportion, but technological base is common.
• Yī Zhī Chūn (一枝春, Yī Zhī Chūn): Third participant of classic Zhangzhou trio. Distinguished by own blend recipe; stylistically close to Se Zhong, but may stand out with different aromatic accent.

In conclusion:

Zhangzhou Se Zhong is a tea where blender mastery stands equal to terroir and cultivar. It does not strive to amaze with single-variety purity like Tieguanyin, and does not claim auction records — its merit lies elsewhere: this is honest, stable, multifaceted oolong, in each cup of which sounds a chorus of several Fujian varieties, harmoniously conducted by the technologist’s hand. Orange-yellow liquor with pure floral aroma, soft full-bodied taste and returning sweetness — perfect companion for unhurried gongfu tea ceremony. For those seeking authentic Minnan oolong without overpaying for a famous name, Se Zhong remains one of the best discoveries in the world of Chinese tea.